Stuck Engine 63 Lark

[63larkcustom]

not sure if good news yet or not..but got it to turn very slightly tonight.. enough to move some of the mmo out of a plug hole.. will continue each day.. see how far it can get..

Bob Sporner

[sbca96]

"If it bleeds, we can kill it." - Predator.

http://aazealh.nerim.net/Divers/If_it_bleeds....wav

Not sure if thats a good quote since you want it to turn, but it did
pop into my head, when I thought of that red fluid oozing out.

Sounds like the start of success to me!

Tom

[63larkcustom]

well if nothing else its a great stress releaver crankin on the bar...lol

Bob Sporner

[63larkcustom]

Day off today, so of course.. spent a good portion of it working on the engine. I pulled the head and took it over to a machine shop to have the top half refreshed. The good news is they cleaned the head and found NO cracks, but in tearing it down noted two bent valves. I was fully expecting cracks in the head. The are also no signs of it having been rewelded. I have a feeling getting the bottom half freed up is gonna get ugly.

Bob Sporner

[63larkcustom]

well.. looks like a worst case scenario has developed... the block is cracked. How hard/costly would it be to convert the car over to the mckinnon setup (I know..its a stude and needs a stude engine). Being a basic 6cyl lark, the value is rather low. I'm trying to find the most cost effective way to get it up and going. Does anyone have any suggestions? Your help is greatly appreciated.


Bob Sporner

[sbca96]

The Chevy mounts are available from Studebaker International, page 97
of the engine section "Part 6". They list them for $175 a pair. You
will have to order a 65-66 Lark exhaust also. For the driveshaft you
might be able to find one that will fit, from another car. Just keep
in mind that you will want to upgrade the front springs eventually,
but if you just buy items for a 65-66 Lark, you should be fine. Sorry
to hear about the engine, but since you arent a "purist", you have a
few nice options available for that Lark. I would consider an LT1/T56
combo for it myself. An easy 300hp, and 25+ mpg. The alumnium parts
drop the weight down even further then an all iron GM engine, the OD
makes freeway driving quite nice, of course thats a manual trans.

If you get the engine from a "P" code 94+ Caprice, you can get the
engine and 4L60E auto trans for under 1000 bucks.

Tom

[John Kirchhoff]

You didn't say where it was cracked. If it's the cylinder, they can be bored oversize and a dry sleeve pressed in. If it's between cylinders, there's ag and construction shops that can heat, weld and repair the block (and heads) although you could probably get a used one cheaper. If it's the side of the block like the coolant having frozen, just have it welded, preferably with nickle rod. Just make sure the top of the block isn't distorted (been there) and you may need to have the block planed. Don't get too depressed, I've seen tractor blocks where a thrown rod punched out a 6 inch square hole and after it was repaired, you never would have known except for a few stray grinder marks. Ag and construction folks don't have the luxury of just throwing a block or head away and then easily finding replacements. Yes, I know Stude parts are sometimes hard to find, but believe me, it isn't nothing compared to finding such parts for tractors of the same era. And they'll cost many, many times more.

[63larkcustom]

I totally understand about the welding,etc.. my father and I restored a 1921 Fordson tractor in the late 70's. That was a pain in the butt to get parts. I'd like to try and keep my studie a studie or as close to it as possible. I can stomach putting a 194 in the car as even though it didnt come from South Bend like that, Studebaker did produce a later vehicle with that setup. I'm originally from South Bend and most of my family worked for Studebaker right up through the end. My father was an electrician at the plant, grandfather and one uncle worked in dept 308, the other uncle was a wood pattern maker. I'd like to think a few parts on the car came through their hands. So, while not a purist, I would like to put the little car back together as close to what it was as possible economically.

Bob Sporner

[Kurt]

If you use the Chevy 6 you will need the radiator support for a 65-66. The Chevy engine is longer than the Stude, so the radiator has to be moved forward. Why not swap to a 283. Still a bolt in without the hassle of moving the radiator.

[sbca96]

There is a saying I have read, "dont just replace, UPGRADE!"

Tom

[63larkcustom]

can the frame on my car support the larger engine? I've read several posts on the subject. i'm going to have to do a bit of research before i decide what i want to do with it. Thanks for the input and am open to suggestions.


Bob Sporner

[John Kirchhoff]

The frames on the 6 cylinder cars were made of a little thinner metal than the V8's and technically weren't as strong. Frankly I wouldn't worry very much about that. However, you might want to check the area of the frame where the front spring supports attach to the frame. Sometimes the frames would crack in that area regardless of the size engine. If so, it's time to do a little bit of welding. Unless your California car spend it's life near the ocean, I doubt there's penetrating rust problems on the frame. If there's anything good to be said about a small block Chevy, they are considerably lighter in weight than a Stude V8.

[sbca96]

You can add some "T" bar to the bottom of the front frame from the
spring holes down to the next crossmember. I think it was an old
publication I saw them recommend this for the "lighter" frames. The
53 C/K were prone to cracking there. I think in 54 the added the
larger crossmember under the door A-pillar. Chances are the frame
will be fine, unless you take my earlier advice on the LT1/4L60E. Or
if you REALLY want to worry about that frame, drop in a 500 hp LS7.
Its all aluminum, you might have to cut the 6 cylinder springs to get
the front end back down.

Tom

[StudeDave57]

Bob~
If you're interested in NOT having to re-engineer your car (IE installing a V8 and all the changes that go along with it...) I have an OHV Six here in San Diego that should be rebuildable. I have not seen it in a few years as it's buried in the corner of my storage building. If you're interested I'll un-bury it and have a look-see. It's a full-flow from a '63, ran when pulled, been in storage since~ I'm not sure of too much else about it at this time, but can find out more for you if need-be...
I hope that this my help you in your pursuit of hapiness.


StudeDave [8D]
V/P San Diego County SDC
San Diego, Ca

'54 Commander 4dr 'Ruby'
'57 Parkview (it's a 2dr wagon...) 'Betsy'
'57 Commander 2dr 'Baby'
'57 Champion 2dr 'Jewel'
'58 Packard sedan 'Cleo'
'65 Cruiser 'Sweet Pea'

[63larkcustom]

Hi Dave, yes, please check I am definitely interested. The engine thats in the car is a full flow unit as well. I would prefer not to change for the original setup.

Bob Sporner