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Stuck Engine 63 Lark

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  • Stuck Engine 63 Lark

    Hello Everyone, I'm new to the forum and have a few questions about the 170ohv. I just rescued a 63 Lark from the crusher. The good part is the body is straight and rust free, all glass and chrome is there and in good condition. The bad news is the engine is stuck and will not turn. I'm not too familiar with this engine and am trying to decide the best course of attack. I have done some research and have seen that this engine has a problem with the heads cracking. I've considered swapping out the engine with a 194 engine or even a flathead 6. I am not sure of the complications that would arise. the body number is 63s y4 382. All of the fluids are in the engine/radiator and look good. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. My goal is to have the car mechanically capable of making the trip from palm springs to south bend in June 07.

    Bob Sporner

  • #2
    [http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...eo006.jpg/img]
    not sure if this will work.. trying to post a pic of the car

    Bob Sporner [img/http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m190/63larkcustom/PictureorVideo006.jpg]

    Comment


    • #3
      Bob, I would suggest taking out all the spark plugs, and pouring some
      Marvel Mystery oil into each cylinder. Then let it sit for a week.
      The oil will seep down past the rings, and unstick the rings. After
      you do that, leave the plugs out, and try cranking the engine. If it
      still wont budge, try a socket on the front bolt on the crank. Once
      you got it unstuck, then you will want to add an upper engine lube. I
      like "Rislone" myself. Good luck. Keep us posted on this post.

      http://www.rislone.com/





      Tom

      '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
      '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
      Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
      http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
      I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks Tom, do i need to remove the oil pan after running the treatment to clean out the gunk?

        Bob Sporner
        [img=left]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m190/63larkcustom/PictureorVideo006-1.jpg

        Comment


        • #5
          No, its not that strong a cleaner, just change the oil when it looks
          like its dirty, like you normally would. You might want to start by
          changing the oil, and such AFTER you get the engine unstuck. I would
          not change it before, since if something is mechanically wrong you
          will waste 5 quarts of oil, and these days thats not cheap!

          If you click on the "reply with quote" option on my post above that I
          included your picture, you can see the correct syntax to make it work.

          Tom
          '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
          Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
          I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks Tom.. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that its nothing too major.. but whatever the outcome.. i'm committed to getting the ole girl back on the road where she belongs.

            Bob Sporner
            [img=left]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m190/63larkcustom/PictureorVideo006-1.jpg

            Comment


            • #7
              thanks for the syntax on the picture.. worked fine.

              Bob Sporner

              Comment


              • #8
                I don't want to be the party pooper here, but depending upon how long the car sat and how humid the climate, it could very well take a heck of a lot more than dribbling a little lube down the plug hole. My '51 Land Cruiser had been driven into a hay barn where it sat for 13 years. After I got it, I tried all the different remedies but after I tore the engine apart I found out why my endeavors were fruitless. As we all know, steel and aluminum only tolerate each other under the best of circumstances. Let an aluminum piston with steel rings set for years with moisture making its way into the cylinders through open valves (either exhaust or intake) and that funky white corrosion forms in the open space in the ring land. When it does so, it swells up and the piston is locked in place. On my V8, two cylinders had open intake valves and stuck pistons. I must have sweated 10 gallons and split a winter's worth of firewood using oak blocks between the top of the piston and my sledge hammer. Even if I hadn't bashed in the tops of the pistons, they were junk. It's impossible to get the rings out of the corroded land. Both intake valves were deeply pitted and also junk but the open exhaust were fine. Must be some stainless steel in them. Hopefully your engine isn't in the same shape. On the bright side, being a 6 cylinder there's a good chance only one piston is stuck. On the down side, I've had to sledge hammer corroded pistons out of tractors, motorcycles and lawnmowers too. I wonder if the sledge hammer trick would work on one of those little gas powered model airplanes?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for the input. The car spent its life in southern california.. so luckily not too many humidity type issues have shown their head so far.. but.. i havent gotten it unstuck yet either.. we'll see what happens.

                  Bob Sporner

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I was kinda taking in consideration that it was in SoCal, but those
                    points are worth making. Its very possible that the engine is a total
                    loss, but you gotta start somewhere. I just picked up that R1 engine
                    and was told it turns over. I havent tried it yet myself though. If
                    its the one I think it is, its been out of the car, non-running for
                    about 15 to 20 years in Santa Barbara. It had plastic over it, but
                    wasnt sealed. It might be toast, or it might turn like I was told. I
                    will try to turn it, if that doesnt work, the oil in the cylinders, &
                    THEN I will start using the sledge hammer!

                    Just kidding, but I did get a 63 engine from a salvage yard many years
                    ago, and I did have to use a chisel and a hammer to break the pistons
                    into little pieces. The engine also filled up with water. Nice part
                    was it was all still usable- except the pistons. No amount of JB weld
                    was going to fix them.[]

                    I just bought my first sledge hammer, its a small one, but it packs a
                    big whollop. Made knocking the hubs loose on the Avanti go smoothly.
                    That reminds me, I need to return the puller[:0][B)]!!!

                    Tom
                    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Well, I filled they cylinders with the MMO and also a bit of atf, suggested by a mechanic friend. Better to try the less expensive alternative first before it starts costing.

                      Bob Sporner

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Just make sure you dont have the plugs IN the engine when you try and
                        turn it over or you could end up with a hydro-lock from the oil in the
                        cylinders. You probably know this, but I wanted to restate in case!

                        Tom
                        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          good point.. though i have the plastic spread and am hoping it turns and makes quite a mess..else..time for the rebuilder...

                          Bob Sporner

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            A less stressful and more leveraged release of siezed rings would be to apply a prybar to the ring gear. I did this to a Lark VI that had sat in a carport for 12 years and ran it for many years after. I did prybar it through several complete revolutions, relubricating often with MMO.

                            Brad Johnson
                            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                            33 Rockne 10
                            51 Commander Starlight
                            53 Commander Starlight

                            previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser
                            "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

                            Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                            sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Good idea, yes the pry bar on the ring gear CAN give more leverage
                              then the front bolt. Years ago we got my dads 64 GT Hawk engine free
                              doing that. Actually, doing BOTH, ring gear AND front bolt! It got
                              quite a few miles on it after that. It had been rebuilt, & sat out.

                              Tom
                              '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                              Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                              I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                              Comment

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