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My Half A$$ Studebaker Rebuild

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  • It's starting to look like a car again. I have thought a few times about ordering some lead and giving it a try. Looks like the only way to learn it is to do it. When finished, your car should be worth a million dollars. That's a dollar an hour for all of your man hours. LOL Keep up the good work, and the pics.
    Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

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    • Originally posted by tsenecal View Post
      It's starting to look like a car again. I have thought a few times about ordering some lead and giving it a try. Looks like the only way to learn it is to do it. When finished, your car should be worth a million dollars. That's a dollar an hour for all of your man hours. LOL Keep up the good work, and the pics.
      Thanks, it's fun messing about with skills I've never attempted and I don't feel too guilty about trying it out on this rusty car. The red car I got parts from was actually far better shape than mine. Makes me wonder if at the first big bump, the car may just break in half.
      "Man plans, God laughs".

      Anon

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      • Guess what I started cleaning up today? Something rusty of course!

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        Rear valance underside is pretty rusty, but the top isn't too bad. The weird part is the red car's valance is the opposite, the underside is in very good condition and the top is rusty.

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        This is Eastwood's inner frame encapsulate, the third type of rust treatment used on this car. So far: Por-15, ACE Hardware and now Eastwood. I will report back in a year or two on which held up best on this rolling petri dish of rust.

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        Hope this acrylic enamel sticks to the Rustoleum primer, it was close at hand and I'm lazy.
        "Man plans, God laughs".

        Anon

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        • I felt I was pretty close to shaping the filler on the fenders, so I primered it with high build.

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          I see where I missed a couple of spot where the seam sealer is showing and I brushed it on, so there is still more sanding to be done.
          "Man plans, God laughs".

          Anon

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          • Sanded and primered the trunk lid. I sprayed Eastwood Encapsulate in the inner panel.

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            Slapped some paint on the underside as well.

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            Finished off painting the inside of the trunk and mounted the wiring harness in the tabs I tacked in place.

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            What a mess in there.

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            Spent the rest of the time readjusting the trunk lid. Done for today.
            "Man plans, God laughs".

            Anon

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            • Thanks for sharing your restore progress. This has become one of my ‘must click’ threads; ‘cause I just don’t know whether you will reveal a victory celebration or a learning experience. Thumbs-up to you.

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              • Originally posted by caesar View Post
                Thanks for sharing your restore progress. This has become one of my ‘must click’ threads; ‘cause I just don’t know whether you will reveal a victory celebration or a learning experience. Thumbs-up to you.
                Agreed: I love reading up on the latest

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                • your giving me motivation for sure. Thank you Topper
                  Charles

                  1961 Lark Regal VIII 259/auto -- Lucy

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                  • Since the tank is in, I added fuel and started it up for the first time in months. Weird thing, is the fuel filter always looks like it barely has any fuel in it. I remember sending brake cleaner down the line and air pressure to blow and clean it out. I don't recall too much resistance and the smell of old fuel. Car runs ok and starts right up. Does seem to have a bit of stumble when giving it some gas, maybe starving? I'll try a i.v. directly into the pump later.

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                    Nice to be able to pull the car out of the garage to work on. Time to remove the passenger door.

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                    This did not work for me, so I cannot recommend getting this from Eastwood. I also broke my Snap-On #3 Phillips with my impact driver. These aren't moving.

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                    Started to drill out the heads and may just need to leave these hinges in place. At least I'll only have to drill out 6 bolt heads instead of 12. It was getting hot, so I moved on to the rear bumper.
                    "Man plans, God laughs".

                    Anon

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                    • My bumper is less than perfect, but I have two others to pick from. Which would you use?

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                      I'm thinking the middle one, although I like the two AAA stickers on the others. I need to place the bumper loosely in place in order to correctly mount the valance panel. Since the door was a bust today, I at least painted the bumper brackets.

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                      While digging around I found these.

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                      My dad's curb feeler, tissue dispenser and compass that probably just needs a suction cup. I also have my dad's wide vision rear view mirror somewhere. These all came off a 61 Chevy Nomad Wagon.
                      "Man plans, God laughs".

                      Anon

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                      • [/QUOTE]Started to drill out the heads and may just need to leave these hinges in place. At least I'll only have to drill out 6 bolt heads instead of 12. It was getting hot, so I moved on to the rear bumper.[/QUOTE]

                        Remember that the hinge bolts go into a captured plate in the doors. You can drill them out enough to get the door off and pull the plates and either remove the bolts or just make a new plate out of 1/4" steel. I had to do that on my 54 to both the hinges in each door. The plate is captured by a sheet metal piece that is spot welded to the inside of the door. You will need to open one side of it to get the plate out.

                        Bob
                        Last edited by sweetolbob; 10-17-2020, 06:24 PM.

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                        • Thanks Bob for all the help. I'm going to try using an impact gun on it with the screw bit.
                          "Man plans, God laughs".

                          Anon

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                          • It's important to use the correct screwdriver bit. I don't think #3 is correct. And I don't think it's a Phillips.
                            Jerry Forrester
                            Forrester's Chrome
                            Douglasville, Georgia

                            See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Jerry Forrester View Post
                              It's important to use the correct screwdriver bit. I don't think #3 is correct. And I don't think it's a Phillips.
                              You beat me to it. It’s a #4 Pozidriv.

                              What is Pozidriv? There are an seemingly overwhelming amount of drive styles in the industry. Here's what you need to know about the Pozidriv.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by mbstude View Post

                                You beat me to it. It’s a #4 Pozidriv.

                                https://www.albanycountyfasteners.co...from-phillips/
                                That makes sense. Ordering one now. Thanks guys.
                                "Man plans, God laughs".

                                Anon

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