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My Half A$$ Studebaker Rebuild

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  • I didn't like the height of my trunk lid and used the shims I bought along with the washers to lower the hinges.

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    Height is a lot better.

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    Don't mind the painter's tape, just leaving it there to salvage it for more paint work. Gap is looking decent now.

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    • This has been giving me a headache and losing sleep over it.

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      Right side taillamp mount fits about right.


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      Leftside, not so much. So my lack of experience is something I hope I remember in the future. As the old saying goes, "Experience is something you wish you had the day before you need it." I'm thinking I only have a couple options, cut the weld of the fender line on top and weld in a section, or cut the back panel and move the upright panel over to line up the taillamp mount. That may mess up the length needed to install the valance or even the rear bumper. I measure the distance and I'm right at 54", same as the rear section I picked up Saturday. Good thing I'm now retired so I can drop this until I find a solution, but knowing me, the cutting wheel comes out!

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      • I've never had much confidence in Evap-o-Rust. I use hydrochloric acid, it's WAY cheaper and does the same job better in just a couple minutes, instead of hours or days. It will also remove the galvanizing, but if it's rusting its gone already. Nice thing is it only attacks the oxidation, and won't bother the steel unless you leave it for WAY to long, (days/weeks), but don't put zinc, cad or chrome in it or it's gone.

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        • What do you plan to do with the filler neck to prevent future rusting?
          Bob
          Bob
          Welland Ontario
          60 Lark Convertible
          64 Daytona
          sigpic
          "They were meant to be driven ... so keep on cruizin"

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          • Originally posted by bensherb View Post
            I've never had much confidence in Evap-o-Rust. I use hydrochloric acid, it's WAY cheaper and does the same job better in just a couple minutes, instead of hours or days. It will also remove the galvanizing, but if it's rusting its gone already. Nice thing is it only attacks the oxidation, and won't bother the steel unless you leave it for WAY to long, (days/weeks), but don't put zinc, cad or chrome in it or it's gone.
            I've always wanted to try electrolysis using anodes (?) and a battery charger with baking soda. I've got to remember not to leave the part in Evaporust too long as it turns the metal black.

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            • Originally posted by pinehurstbob View Post
              What do you plan to do with the filler neck to prevent future rusting?
              Bob
              Bob, I'm thinking nothing as I recall (probably incorrectly) the inside of the gas tanks are not coated, at least in motorcycles. Hopefully, I drive the car enough to turn the gas over enough to prevent any rusting.

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              • Originally posted by Topper2011 View Post

                Bob, I'm thinking nothing as I recall (probably incorrectly) the inside of the gas tanks are not coated, at least in motorcycles. Hopefully, I drive the car enough to turn the gas over enough to prevent any rusting.
                Well...if I'm correct, it took it over a half century to get into this shape. If you can get it to stay functional for another 25 or 30 years...you might find the priority for your concern to have changed a bit by then.
                John Clary
                Greer, SC

                SDC member since 1975

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                • Time to slay the dragon! I went after the left side weird offset/my goofy welding/oversite.

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                  I had to cut out a section of support to move the panel inboard.

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                  Took pretty much most of the morning, but I think I have it. The valance mounting holes are a little off, but the tail lamps line up well enough. May not pass QC. I'll blame the guy that was working that day as being hung over.

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                  I think it's looking better than I thought

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                  • Since the welder is out, with a new bottle of gas, may as well weld in the wire harness tabs.

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                    Welding done for the day, time to check the filler tube.

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                    Sitting in the sun right now to dry and then will spray it with WD40 to keep the flash rust at bay. Done for the day and time for afternoon coffee and cupcakes my wife made.

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                    • Hmm, maybe I should stop being lazy and put some of this in the filler neck.

                      https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Sealer

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                      • Got the trunk lid fit looking really good Topper! Believe me, I know what you are doing is a HUGE amount of work......
                        Paul
                        Winston-Salem, NC
                        Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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                        • Originally posted by Topper2011 View Post
                          Hmm, maybe I should stop being lazy and put some of this in the filler neck.

                          https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Sealer
                          I heard good things about it and bought the "KIT" to use in a motorcycle tank I modified, (grafted top of a Kawasaki tank into a Harley tank) but haven't done it yet.

                          I also tried electrolysis, (reverse plating) but it didn't work out too well. It was ok on the first few things I did but on the last one it actually ate large divots into my part, kinda like a metal eating termite might do. Fortunetly it was just a 132 year old shot gun that had been blown up and was beyond repair anyway. Acid is faster, easier, and safer for your part in my experiance.

                          Heres a rim from my CT70 I de-rusted in HCL. It was beyond use to begin with but I wanted to see if there was any good metal there at all. It was in 15% HCL for 4 hours.
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                          This was after about 15 minutes. (the top of the Kawi tank):
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                          • That cleaned up really well. Where can you get HCL?

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                            • Originally posted by Topper2011 View Post
                              That cleaned up really well. Where can you get HCL?
                              Muratic acid at most hardware and big box stores. Wear gloves and goggles as it's not skin and membrane friendly. To dilute it, pour it into water not the other way around.

                              Read the precautions and heed them.

                              Bob

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                              • Time to raid more parts from the spare "car".

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