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My Half A$$ Studebaker Rebuild

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  • Topper2011
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  • Topper2011
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    This was posted on my thread in my motorcycle forum
    Chickasha Fall Swap Meet

    Last edited by Topper2011; 10-19-2019, 05:06 PM.

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  • Topper2011
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    The exhaust heat valve didn't even remotely seem like it was opening. At the risk of having cold running problems or the choke not coming off soon enough, I took it out.

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    I put some MAPP gas heat on it to test it.

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    It does work, just didn't seem to be on my car.

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    I put in a spacer I had from the wrong header pipes.

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    Exhaust is very even now and with our mild winters, it shouldn't be a problem.

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  • Topper2011
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    Worked on getting this aftermarket ignition switch mounted instead of flopping around having to use two hands to start the car.

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    Using the motorcycle front sprocket lock washer, I modified the teeth enough to get the ignition switch held in place.

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    The teeth are bent so they grip the back of the fiberglass dash opening to keep the switch from spinning.

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    I think I need to flatten the washer a bit more as the locking nut sticks out too far, not flush. For now, I can work with it so I can drive the car out before I set it and my garage on fire from it shorting out on something.


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  • Mrs K Corbin
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    yeah, I'm thinking that R2 would have a JT in the serial#

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  • Topper2011
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    Originally posted by skyway View Post
    Looking GOOD; and your 3 point turn kinda reminds me of that Ferrari footage from a couple of weeks ago!
    With the camera, manual steering, no driver's door, three speed and two cars that are never there, I was busier than a one legged man in an ass kicking contest!

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  • Topper2011
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    Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
    Over the past few days I have perused this thread. In documenting your work on your Stude, you are also documenting a high mechanical aptitude, admirable energy and sticktuitiveness, and a knack for adapting and overcoming adversity through, "Yankee ingenuity". In leaving no stone unturned on your car, looks like there isn't much you will not tackle and figure a way to fix. Keep up the good work, and I am sure you will be on the road someday soon. You will also know your car, inside and out. Should a problem ever occur on the road, in your mind you will probably already have it diagnosed before even getting pulled over. Meanwhile, you are building a strong advertisement, should you ever decide to go into the Studebaker mechanical repair business. Many Stude owners need mechanical repair service, and have no where to go. I believe anyone who lives a reasonable distance from you, would be happy to have you work on their Stude.

    Despite the above, obviously you are a very busy guy, and have no time to work on others' Studes. I am just saying, if you ever decided to open a Stude repair facility, this thread could be your best advertisement.
    Thank you Joe, but I definitely not experienced enough to work on anyone's Studebaker, let alone mine. Wait until you see me attempt bodywork.

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  • Topper2011
    replied
    Originally posted by Mrs K Corbin View Post
    I see a Dual Point Dizzy!
    so I sent back and checked. You've got a Twin Traction setup as well.....

    What's your engine serial#?
    You sure you're not sitting on a Super Hawk? R2, etc.?
    Maybe I missed it in the discussion. it's only 28 pages now.
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    I don't believe it's an R2, iirc I have the build sheet and don't remember seeing that option.

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  • skyway
    replied
    Looking GOOD; and your 3 point turn kinda reminds me of that Ferrari footage from a couple of weeks ago!

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  • JoeHall
    replied
    Over the past few days I have perused this thread. In documenting your work on your Stude, you are also documenting a high mechanical aptitude, admirable energy and sticktuitiveness, and a knack for adapting and overcoming adversity through, "Yankee ingenuity". In leaving no stone unturned on your car, looks like there isn't much you will not tackle and figure a way to fix. Keep up the good work, and I am sure you will be on the road someday soon. You will also know your car, inside and out. Should a problem ever occur on the road, in your mind you will probably already have it diagnosed before even getting pulled over. Meanwhile, you are building a strong advertisement, should you ever decide to go into the Studebaker mechanical repair business. Many Stude owners need mechanical repair service, and have no where to go. I believe anyone who lives a reasonable distance from you, would be happy to have you work on their Stude.

    Despite the above, obviously you are a very busy guy, and have no time to work on others' Studes. I am just saying, if you ever decided to open a Stude repair facility, this thread could be your best advertisement.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mrs K Corbin
    replied
    I see a Dual Point Dizzy!
    so I sent back and checked. You've got a Twin Traction setup as well.....

    What's your engine serial#?
    You sure you're not sitting on a Super Hawk? R2, etc.?
    Maybe I missed it in the discussion. it's only 28 pages now.

    Leave a comment:


  • Topper2011
    replied
    Well, I decided to replace the points and condenser since the engine wasn't running smoothly and the idle was stuck around 1200 rpms.

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    Well lookee here! I filed the points and added a dab of die-electric grease to the cam. Adjusted them to 0.22 and checked the timing and it was way advanced. I brought it to approximately 10 degrees. Engine smoothed out fairly well and I was able to drop the engine speed down to 760 rpms. Exhaust pipe on the left was strong and exhaust was hot. Left side seemed weak and cooler. The heater valve doesn't seem to be opening and manually opening resulted in the exhaust was naturally stronger. I think I will be pulling out the heat riser and put in a spacer.

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  • Topper2011
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    Originally posted by 70Avanti2 View Post
    I had a bent push rod like that from valve float (I think). Hope that is your only problem.
    Amen to that.

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  • 70Avanti2
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    I had a bent push rod like that from valve float (I think). Hope that is your only problem.

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  • Topper2011
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    The replacement ignition switch has been bugging me in it's fit.

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    It spins when you turn the key. Seems it needs a woodruff key to fit in the slot and a flat spot to hold it in place.

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    This is the old Willys switch and it fits pretty well in the Hawk, unfortunately it's bad.

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    Looks like this pin needs to be removed in order to see what's wrong with the switch. I'm sure it's just worn out. I also can't find the key to it anyway.

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    I may use this old motorcycle lock washer and use the tabs to lock in the new switch, no harm or cost in trying.

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