r2 pulleys for charger

[64studeavanti]

Eric,
Since this engine seems to be a hodge-podge of parts, you might want to determine exactly what you have. No one probably knows what the internals are after all these years. For example, the 976 heads you have are likely from a 57-58 Golden Hawk - not standard R2 (582). Depending on what was done to them and which head gasket was used, your compression ratio could be quite different from standard R2. I would also pull the oil pan and check the numbers on the crank to determine if you have one for a 289 or 259. The 289 should have 1556444. You should also verify that you have flat top pistons, the correct cam, distributor (R2 advance curve is different from R1 and other studes) etc.

[SN-60]

Just want folks to know that when I purchased this Avanti, (63R3623), it had a Stude replacement (no serial #) full-flow 289 short block with correct R2 heads under the hood....and that's how I sold it.

I'm not responsible for the subsequent 'hodge-podge'!!

[Endl98]

Twice I accidentally erased my comments on my phone . But I hope your not getting blamed Ed. It's been over 30 years since you owned it. But I am going to check stroke later on. I hope someone didn't slap together a 259 and or switch it out . Either way I am going to work threw it. if I have to get a correct or better set of heads , cam and rebuild the blower , no problem. but I really do not want to have to source out a set of pistons and a crank

64studeavanti, the distributor has a pertronix kit in it. it has .030 flat tops in it. unsure about the cam. as I am finding out it is a hodge-podge of mystery. but this is starting to explain why its such a slug.

[KOOL R2]

My best time with my R2 Avanti at the PSMCDR is 102mph at 13.7seconds ET Chuck Kern with his Avanti R2 is almost the same numbers.

Peter sant

[64studeavanti]

If necessary, getting a different crank should not be an issue. I was speaking with a gentleman a couple of days ago who has a NOS one, and I have 3 re-grindable on the shelf. I am sure that if you really needed one, you would be able to get one from several sources. As far as pistons go, they can be purchased new from several sources as well. You said you saw detonation pitting on the pistons, that could indicate that the compression is too high as is possible with the heads you have. The R3 has a higher compression ratio (9.6 vs 9.0) - the previous owner may have been attempting to mimic that. In any case, you have a lot of parts that are not readily available and should give you a good base to work from. The cam could be an issue as I don't know if the standard R1/R2 cam can take the re-grind to make it up to R3 specs. There were a few roller cams floating around, however, I don't know if any are still available. As far as the distributor goes, you still need to check the advance curve. The pertronix only replaces the points and does not alter the curve. BTW, any stude v8 distributor from 1955 on will fit. R2 engines came with a dual point prestolite and R3 engines came with a centrifugal only transistorized distributor.

In any case, good luck - sounds like a great project.

[JoeHall]

If the car has been, "flipped" one or more times in the past three decades, there's no telling what kind of hodge-podge components are in the motor. If serious about making it comparable to a real 'R' series motor, you'll probably need to start from the ground up.

[Endl98]

Joe, many owners of this car are here from 1975 to later, even the supposed builder of the last motor. I got it from a member, it was never stated to be a True R2, just built using Avanti parts and some repo stuff. I have yet to talk to the builder, I have not been able to contact him. he is a reputable person on the boards. The motor may have been swapped or played with in the last 7 years. the car has been sitting for 4 years in the last owners garage, was it played with then I do not know, I do not believe it was. however , I am trying to straight out and get it running correct. every one here has been supper helpful. and I am very thankful for that.
but you are correct a tear down and rebuild may be in order.

[63larkr1]

Eric,
For the record my R1 Lark has run a best of 13.84@98.51mph. I raced at the Pure Stock drags for several years and beat several SBCs, including a Z28 Camaro, and a 1963 FI Corvette, but that doesn't help you.
From what you have said here if I were you I would check everything over to see what you really have. In addition to what others have said, make sure you have thin head gaskets, some think going to a thick gaskets or dished pistons is a good idea, but that kills the power. If you want an R1/2 why buy one and turn it in to a non R series engine? I've raced my R1 on 93 octane with no problems including just a couple weeks ago, but I don't recommend it.
Pits in the pistons could be that someone ran it with 87 octane fuel or old gas from sitting. That will do it even if you don't run it hard.
I would check the compression, along with everything else others have suggested.
Good luck.
Richard

[Endl98]

Well its seems JDP can not remember enough about the car, He had sold it in 2004 , He does not remember rebuilding it. just that it had white doors . so it seems I will have to go deep inside it, no worries , just never been inside a stude before. Its all nuts and bolts right. hopefully with enough guidance I can get to put it together properly.

[64studeavanti]

Not really much different from any brand X engine. Get the shop manual if you don't have one. The crankshaft endplay is adjusted by shims on the front bearing and they used timing gears not chains. Just verify what you have, what you need and ask for lots of help on this forum. CC the heads, check the crank forging etc. The only other thing I would caution is to check the piston to deck clearance as the block may have been decked. That would dictate which head gasket you use.

[Endl98]

well for those that have been following, I measured the stroke and it is 3 .625 of a stroke making it a 289. so now i have to figure out the low compression on all 8 of 130psi with flat tops and 58cc heads.

[karterfred88]

well for those that have been following, I measured the stroke and it is 3 .625 of a stroke making it a 289. so now i have to figure out the low compression on all 8 of 130psi with flat tops and 58cc heads.

I'm missing something here. Early on you said your engine had correct R2 heads-they are 67.7 CC with flat top R2 pistons and original head gaskets it should be about 165psi or so. Are you doing the compression readings with all plugs out and carb full open? Since I believe the R2 heads have the largest CCs of Stude heads and your readings are equal and lower than 165 perhaps the heads have been worked, or flat tops with a different deck clearance used. Did you do wet or dry?

[Endl98]

Yes i think your missing alot here, I have another post where I was asking about this car when purchasing, Its got r1456 as a block and 976 heads with R3 valves, a repo R3 air box , aluminum intake and R3 manifolds. It was supposed to be built with a R2 cam, , I knew this going into it, Post 8 is where I state some of this. I never said it was a real R2 motor . I keep calling it a R2 , so it may be confusing.
supposedly this motor has been rebuilt a few years ago, satdoc2 purchased it 4 years ago, thinking it was a real R3. he found out it was not but a cloned motor. he said JDP did the build, im finding out he does not recall building this.
what I am certain is that its r1456(r1) with 535976 heads, it had a carter 9635s afb on it and a pertronix dist..030 flat tops It does have 130 dry comp on all 8. its now starting to run alot better since i cleaned the carb , got 93 gas and let it run awhile. It however is still piggish and bogs, i still have to make sure the choke is not closing, But the blower seems to make no boost on a load.
I think the other thread is where alot of my engine info is at and I can see I do not have it here. This is where the confusion is comming from. The car has had a replacement block with blower in the trunk, a R1 and had no motor in the past,

[jpepper]

My R2 Lark ran high 13's through the mufflers on street tires in 1970. I expect it to run similar times today. Maybe better because tires are better. My buddies 365HP 327 (original solid lifter Corvette engine) in a 67 Nova SS runs high 12's on slicks. Neither car is blindingly fast by today's Camaro, Mustang, Challenger standards. Technology and engineering has allowed many advances that were desired years ago but were not possible. Because of advanced machining centers, production engines are machined more accurate than the best race engines of 30 years ago. A good R2 is still a fun drive. I have had 327 and 350 SBC's that were slugs and some that ran way better than they should. R2's were no different. That is what I think.

[nels]

But the blower seems to make no boost on a load.
I think the other thread is where alot of my engine info is at and I can see I do not have it here. This is where the confusion is comming from. The car has had a replacement block with blower in the trunk, a R1 and had no motor in the past,[/QUOTE]

I had a similar problem with no boost. The car just didn't run healthy. I took the top of the plenum off the engine and discovered the rubber on the flapper valve had fallen off and the vent was wide open. I think there is a problem with the reproduction springs and valves on that flapper. The reproduction versions the flat spring cracks. Probably worth checking.