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WARREN WEBB - Try here https://www.ebay.com/itm/Saturn-Vue-...VZwneP&vxp=mtr
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If you can find it back I think a picture would be interesting.
Last edited by Noxnabaker; 02-26-2018, 02:48 PM.
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FWIW, that was a 1960s Stude racer trick; cut one at the bottom and one at the top and weld together. The '56 Power Hawk I drove from 1970-95 had a lengthened Pittman arm and it did steer a bit heavier, but I was young and strong. That steering box and arm is still around the shop somewhere.To get less turns lock to lock you would have to lengthen the pitman arm
jack vines
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I don't believe the guy in Portugal is selling the conversion wiring harness anymore & I'm in the middle of moving & where the harness I bought is the 64K question. If anyone has one of these harnesses perhaps we can get Lark Works to make them available. Our cars may or may not need this but Champs do! (at least my 3 could use it!)
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The only thing shortening the pitman arm would do is give you a larger turning radius. To get less turns lock to lock you would have to lengthen the pitman arm or the second part of the bellcrank (the part the tierods hook to), or SHORTEN the first part of the bellcrank, or the third arms (quick arms that Stude vendors sell}.Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View PostJerry,
Three things...First, THANK you for the response. Next. I imagine I could pull the horn wire and run it on the outside of the column. It does run down the center of the steering shaft now. Third...In addition to shortening the bell crank, I wonder if it would shorten the number of lock to lock turns if the Pitman arm were to be shortened... or if that would be detrimental to the steering system. Thoughts?...
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Okidoki, thanx!
I'm just curious, I have a bit over 4 turns so I'm not sure I'll need it.
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The drag link goes from the pitman arm to the bell crank. That part of the bell crank is what I shortened.Originally posted by Noxnabaker View PostInteresting; one inch cut out of the bell crank arm... the bit that atatches to the pitman arm & steering box, if that's the drag link bit? Or to the tierods end with the two/2 holes?
(I aint much of an expert on US language...)
I'm not advising you to do this.I'm just telling you what I did.
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Jerry,
Three things...First, THANK you for the response. Next. I imagine I could pull the horn wire and run it on the outside of the column. It does run down the center of the steering shaft now. Third...In addition to shortening the bell crank, I wonder if it would shorten the number of lock to lock turns if the Pitman arm were to be shortened... or if that would be detrimental to the steering system. Thoughts?...
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Interesting; one inch cut out of the bell crank arm... the bit that atatches to the pitman arm & steering box, if that's the drag link bit? Or to the tierods end with the two/2 holes?
(I aint much of an expert on US language...)
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It can be done. It's just a lot of work. But no more than what I had with using an after market chrome tilt column. I don't know if your Hawk has the horn wire up through the column shaft. If so, that's something you'll have to contend with.Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View PostJerry,
I'd REALLY like to keep my Sky Hawk upper column/hub/steering wheel...and upgrade the steering box to a "bolt in" quicker steering box...OTHER than the Stock Ross Sky Hawk box. How difficult would it be to just splice the EPAS unit onto the Stock Sky Hawk column...sorta "cut and paste"? Your thoughts?...
As far as the quicker steering box, good luck with that.
I used the original Ross box but took an inch out of the bell crank arm that attaches to the drag link. That changed it from about 5 turns lock to lock to a tad over three.
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Jerry,
I'd REALLY like to keep my Sky Hawk upper column/hub/steering wheel...and upgrade the steering box to a "bolt in" quicker steering box...OTHER than the Stock Ross Sky Hawk box. How difficult would it be to just splice the EPAS unit onto the Stock Sky Hawk column...sorta "cut and paste"? Your thoughts?...
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I remember this thread from last year. My 64 Champ is also in need of an assist. Very interested...
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I bought 2 kits from the guy in Portugal for my Champs. I have an extra Champ frame with the complete front end to do the setup & work out any bugs before installing them into my 61 & 62. I'll start that when I'm done with the body on my 59 Lark wagon.
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Jerry, found this thread awhile back and am still collecting parts. Thanks for the inspiration!! I have the Vue unit (ebay) complete with lower shaft and joints and the harness from the gentleman in Lisbon. What additional parts do I need from the Vue north of the electric unit? Outer jacket, inner shaft? I'd like to adapt the tilt column from a C4 parts car I have. I'm using the C4 front suspension and plan to couple the EPS to a manual rack.Originally posted by Jerry Forrester View PostOriginal steering box.
Donor parts from a 2002-7 Saturn Vue (also Equanox).
Also you have to go to EBAY and get a controller/potentiometer from a guy in Portugal.
I got the power unit (lower half of the steering column) from a You-Pull-it for $55.
The next day I realised I also needed the upper half. That cost me another $45.
If I had gotten it all at the same time it would probably have been $55 for everything. Live and learn.
The controller/potentiometer was about $75 including shipping from Portugal.
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