Silver Hawk Major Modifications

[Treblig]

Just an update on the adapter sleeves/bushings I'm getting made to adapt the Lark (smaller wheel) to the '69 Silver Hawk steering column. After I thought about it a while I figured that the original design for an adapter sleeve was too complex. Being a machinist I know how much time it takes and how much accuracy it would require to cut a semi-circle section out of the outside of the original sleeve. This "cut out" is shown in the first two pics as the .800" dimension:

the cost (time) to cut this semi-circle could be as mush as $75-$100 on top of the cost of cutting the ID and OD and length of the sleeve. My goal was to get the sleeve made for less than $100 to make this conversion something that others might want to try..

I came up with a simpler design so that someone else could easily get this done with less expense. I ordered two brass sleeves off of ebay. They only cost about $3.50/$4.00 each.




By buying these bushing, which are very close to the size they need to be, the machine shop will be able to easily and inexpensively cut them to the dimensions in this next pic:



The pic is courtesy of my daughter (future Silver Hawk Queen) who is taking an AutoCad class this summer.

I will no longer need a radial cut along the outside of the original sleeve. For those who might not have any idea how long it might take to cut these bushing to size....If I had a lathe I could cut them both in about 20 min. On the other hand, the semi-circular section would take more like 45 min to a hour and a half because of set-up time.

As you can see the outside of one sleeve will fit perfectly into the ID (1.155") of the other. The sleeve with the 1.032" ID (left side drawing) will press fit onto the Lark steering wheel hub. I'll heat it up with a propane torch and when it expands I'll slide it on the Lark hub. Once it cools it will never move or come off unless you reheat it to a high temperature.
The second sleeve (right side drawing) Will fit perfectly over the smaller sleeve but first I'll need to carefully measure and "hacksaw out" the portion where the signal switch will be. It should exactly match (within .010") the original slot that's currently in the '59 Silver Hawk hub as seen in this pic::.






Once I've removed the semi-circular section from the larger sleeve I'll either use two part epoxy to bond it to the smaller sleeve (using a stainless steel hose clamp) or I'll use my torch to braze it to the inner sleeve. Either way, it must me attached in such a way that it can't move!! The location of this slot dictates when you signal cancels in both directions so placement is critical!! It not a big deal because you can always heat the whole thing up and the epoxy will melt or, if it's brazed together, you can heat the whole thing up and the inner sleeve will expand (along with the outer sleeve) and can be relocated.

In 50 years no one else has tried this????
Comments...Suggestions...I'm flying blind here!!!!!

treblig

[Treblig]

Oh....., I forgot to mention why I bought the sleeves on ebay instead of letting the machine shop use their own material. Machine shops typically have brass bar stock on hand but if the machine shop has to drill out the center of the bar stock then cut the ID to size and turn down the OD it adds to the cost of machine work (time). So I figured if I could find some sleeves on ebay (real cheap) that are just a little larger on the OD, a little smaller on the ID and a little longer in length all the machine shop would have to do is chuck the sleeves up on the lathe, trim the ID and OD then cut off the excess length. This makes it very fast and easy for the machine shop to make the two sleeves greatly reducing machine time and cost. I figure about 30/45 minutes machine time but there's probably a one hour minimum ($80 or so). As long as it's less than $100 I'm OK with that!! That beats the Shrock Brothers $500, $600 or $700 steering wheel any day!!

My goal was to make it so that almost anyone can copy my methods............I've read about numerous folks here on SDC who write that they want a smaller steering wheel when they go to power steering. Like me, many don't want the new looks of an aftermarket wheel or a $600 wheel.

treblig

[Treblig]

WOW!! I was very close to the price for the machining. The owner said he could do it for $65 (both pieces). That's excellent!! I'm supposed to pick the pieces up on Wed. While I wait for the machine shop and AC guy I'll be working on the Ford 8 inch rear. I've mostly cleaned it up (still need to clean up the backing plates). I will completely overhaul the whole differential so that my daughter doesn't have to worry about it for at least 20 years. I plan to use a 3.80 gear which should do well with the GM overdrive. Will post pics later on the 8 inch rear!!

Treblig

[Treblig]

Well today was an interesting day!! I went to the AC guy to check on the Silver Hawk and he said that he hadn't touched the car because he had too much work. I told him that I wasn't in a hurry but that I did want it back by next week. He said, " If you'd like to come and work on it yourself you can use all my equipment". He said that he needs a helper anyway and that I come by and work for him part/full time. I told him, "No thanks, I'm retired and really enjoy it". But I told him that I might come by tomorrow and work on the car myself, he said for me to please come by and do all the work I feel like doing.

When I got home I had a call from the machine shop. The guy told me that the bushing were ready so I jumped in the car and drove over there:


The bushings came out just right. I told the guy what I was working on and explained to him how I planned to install the bushing. Then he asked, "You said you were a Machinist, right?" I said yes and that I was retired. He said that he's got way more work than he can do and that it would be great if I came and worked for him. He said I could work as little or as much as I wanted. I told him that I really liked being retired but that once I finish my daughter's car I might come by and talk to him.

Aren't there people out there looking for work????? I mean, I love doing machine work but I thought times were hard and that folks can't find work...here I'm offered two jobs in one day!!

Anyway, I'll probably go to the AC guy and work on the Silver Hawk and we'll see about the Machine shop later???

I spent a few hours cleaning and painting the Ford 8 inch differential. This 65/66 rear end is 58 inches "axle flange to axle flange". I think the Stude rear is 58 1/8 inches:



I removed the Mustang perches:



I still need to finish grinding the weld on this side:

Pic from the rear:



Here's a pic of the 67 and up Ford 8 inch. These years come with the heavy duty carrier. It has extra ribs, just compare the two pics (67 and up on the left). The third members are interchangeable:




I don't know why I keep getting job offers...can't they see that I'm busy with plenty to do???? LOL

treblig

[Treblig]

Got the rear end finished but I left the spring pad area bare because I will eventually have to weld on that area. Talked to a guy in Indiana who puts together the center sections for a good price. I ordered a 4 pin, 3:80 gear center section for this housing, it will come complete ready to pop in. The silver line on the housing represents the location of the center of the new spring pad (41" in C to C):



then I started on getting the steering wheel sleeves cut. I scribed lines on the outer sleeve to get an .800 opening just like the '59 Stude steering wheel then,








using a hack saw, I carefully removed that section. Now it looks like the original drawing I had made. I used a file to square up the "cut" surface. I managed to get it within .005":




Now all I need to do is heat up the inner sleeve and shrink fit it onto the Lark steering wheel boss.



Once the inner sleeve is in place I can put the outer (semi-circle) in the correct location on the inner sleeve, clamp it on with a SS hose clamp and solder, braze or silver solder it in place. EASY PEASY LEMON SQUEEZY!!!

Garrilla....if you're out there, thanks again for the steering wheel. It took a little work but it seems to be working out OK!!

Treblig

[DougHolverson]

Is that a LSD in that 8" rear?

[Treblig]

Is that a LSD in that 8" rear?

When I was growing up in the 60s and 70s "LSD" was the term used for Lysergic Acid Diethylamide (you go on a trip without leaving your house) but you're probably asking if the rear end is limited slip?? The new one that I ordered isn't a posi because I don't want my daughter going sideways if the streets are wet. But....The 4 pin carrier does give you some limited slip capability. The factory 8 inch non posi came with a 2 pin carrier. The 2 pin system was one of the weak links in the 8 inch. Since I'm running a 350 Chevy I figured that a little insurance wouldn't hurt so I ordered the 4 pin non-posi.

If you're asking about the center sections in the rear ends that I have in the pics....I don't know for sure.

treblig

[Treblig]

I decided to completely disassemble the Ford 8 inch rear end today. The new center section should be here late next and I figured that I may well replace the axle bearing and seal along with all new brakes and cylinders:



After removing the center section I found a thick layer of semi-hard gunk on the bottom of the housing. It only took about 30 minutes to take it all apart but it took 2 hours to get the inside clean. I ordered new bearing, seals, wheel cylinders, brake spring kit. It should be 100 percent brand new when I'm done.

Treblig

[64Avanti]

Just curious about the original rear axle. Was it a Dana 44 (8.5") or a Dana 27? If it was a Dana 44 what was the ratio and do you still have it?

[Bill A]

Well heck, just stumbled onto this quest this gentleman has been on. Having done this a number of times working in a custom shop i know how much work it has been. Cudos as most would have thrown in the towel or hired a fabricator before this. Tons of work and nearly as much money. the most challenging one that I did was a 47 Merc woddy as the car and a LT1 drive train complete. Holy cow is all I can say. Hope the booster is a twin diaphram and all the welds are good ones. Also did a complete chassis off restoration on an original Mini Cooper for a BMW dealer. Just got to love it.

[Treblig]

Just curious about the original rear axle. Was it a Dana 44 (8.5") or a Dana 27? If it was a Dana 44 what was the ratio and do you still have it?

I checked the tag on the diff and it was something like 2.70 something (I know it was in the 2.,,,, range) if I remember correctly. But I don't know what size it is?? How can you tell?? It's still under the car and I've been driving it here and there. Don't plan to swap it out for a month or so.

treblig

[Treblig]

Well heck, just stumbled onto this quest this gentleman has been on. Having done this a number of times working in a custom shop i know how much work it has been. Cudos as most would have thrown in the towel or hired a fabricator before this. Tons of work and nearly as much money. the most challenging one that I did was a 47 Merc woddy as the car and a LT1 drive train complete. Holy cow is all I can say. Hope the booster is a twin diaphram and all the welds are good ones. Also did a complete chassis off restoration on an original Mini Cooper for a BMW dealer. Just got to love it.

Glad you can appreciate all the work that has to be done to make the car more modern, more safe and more dependable. I don't plan to live forever so I have to make sure the car can be easily and quickly repaired if my daughter is off at College somewhere.

treblig

[Treblig]

I went and visited the AC guy who has almost finished the AC hose install. Then I spent the rest of the day collecting parts for the 8 inch rear end and brake system. I now have both axle bearing/collars, both axle tube seals, new brake spring kit, brake shoes and associated hardware. I also ordered the 66 Mustang rear brake cable assembly. I finally got around to cleaning the inside of the housing tubes. The tubes had 50 years of pasted gunk/goo (1/4" thick) glued to the inside of the tube. I had to scrape and scrape and clean and scrape some more. I found that the passenger's axle (the axles are different lengths) had a groove worn where the seal rides. I noticed that the passenger's side brake assembly had a lot of grease all over everything so I imagine the seal was leaking?? The new axle should be here on Thursday along with the new drums. The center section should also be here this week.


Here are some pics of the wear on the passenger axle seal surface. Don't know if you'll be able to see the groove but it's easily found using your finger nail.



I've cleaned and painted both backing plates and cleaned/painted many of the brake parts. Will have pics tomorrow. The 8 inch housing is pretty light once the center section, axles and brake assemblies have been removed!!!

More pics tomorrow.....................

treblig

[DEEPNHOCK]

Couple of small items regarding your diff/axle.

Federal-Mogul and SKF both make a product called a Speedi-Sleeve or a Redi-Sleeve.
It is an .011" thick ring of centerless ground material that slides over a damaged shaft to save it.
Same seal number can be used.

Another item.

Some guys will get another short side axle and then cut a slice out of the long side tube and re-weld the tube.
Voila... Narrowed rear end. Yes, the driveshaft will now be off center, but if there is tunnel room, it can get you a few inches for wider tires/wheels.

[Treblig]

Couple of small items regarding your diff/axle.

Federal-Mogul and SKF both make a product called a Speedi-Sleeve or a Redi-Sleeve.
It is an .011" thick ring of centerless ground material that slides over a damaged shaft to save it.
Same seal number can be used.

Another item.

Some guys will get another short side axle and then cut a slice out of the long side tube and re-weld the tube.
Voila... Narrowed rear end. Yes, the driveshaft will now be off center, but if there is tunnel room, it can get you a few inches for wider tires/wheels.

Jeff, I completely forgot about the Redi-Sleeve option!! I could have definitely gone that route as the axle was OK otherwise. But it's too late now, the new axle is on it's way. As for shortening the housing.....The 66 Mustang housing is 1/4" overall shorter (WMS to WMS)...that's only 1/8" per side (fender well space). The "cutting one tube" option is a good idea and a lot less work than cutting both sides....and yes, you can use the short axle on the other side!!

treblig