Engine: Manual Choke / Carb Problem

[Cultural_infidel]

Car started perfect with the choke pulled out. Once it was running for a few minutes, I slowly pushed it back in and it shut down. As soon as I pulled it back out, it started right up. Im a tad confused here.

Also when I hit the gas pedal, it died, unless I did it slowly.

The closer I get, the more confused I get.

[JimC]

Is this on the '60? (I'm assuming so, and hate when I assume wrong)

[Cultural_infidel]

Sorry, it is on the 65.

[Kurt]

You aren't getting enough fuel. When you pull the choke on it richens the fuel mixture enough to keep it running. I would suspect trash in the needle and seat, or float level problem. Is the fuel pump delivering proper volume? If not Maybe the fuel line has trash in it also.

One more thought....

A large vacuum leak would cause the same leaning out issue.

[R_David]

You aren't getting enough fuel. When you pull the choke on it richens the fuel mixture enough to keep it running. I would suspect trash in the needle and seat, or float level problem. Is the fuel pump delivering proper volume? If not Maybe the fuel line has trash in it also.

One more thought....

A large vacuum leak would cause the same leaning out issue.

I second that last thought, I would check for vacuum leaks first since that is relatively easy (unless you don't have a vacuum gauge). My old ford Maverick wouldn't idle at all after the choke shut off, I drove it that way for months until I found my vacuum leak. Kept having to put it in neutral at stop lights with my foot on the gas to keep it running. Good times...

[Cultural_infidel]

Is there any other way to check for a vacuum leak? I don't have the gauge. I do know that I need to get a new PCV valve. Could that be the problem?

Is there a how-to/walk-through that details how to check and clean the needle and float? I haven't played around too much with carbs... and never with the Rochester.

I don't think it is the pump. I have had some experience with a failing pump and it doesn't feel like that is the problem.

[Warren Webb]

Also when I hit the gas pedal, it died, unless I did it slowly. .

Sounds like a bad accelerator pump doing this.

You can check for a vacuum leak by slowly spraying WD40 around the carb/intake manifold area & watching the idle. If the idle picks up in an area then you have found the location of the vacuum leak. It may be as simple as the rubber hose to the distributor advance. These hoses become brittle with age & may look good but may also be the culprit of your ills.

[R_David]

Sounds like a bad accelerator pump doing this.

You can check for a vacuum leak by slowly spraying WD40 around the carb/intake manifold area & watching the idle. If the idle picks up in an area then you have found the location of the vacuum leak. It may be as simple as the rubber hose to the distributor advance. These hoses become brittle with age & may look good but may also be the culprit of your ills.

I like that tip, I am going to use that one. Easier than hooking up a gauge.

You can check the accelerator pump by taking off the air cleaner, leaning over the carb (engine not running) so you can see in the intake and give the throttle linkage a good pull wide open. Should see a nice spray of gas! If it is a weak dribble, or non-existent then your accelerator pump diaghram is probably kaput. This still wouldn't explain the no-idle problem though.

[RadioRoy]

The PCV valve will really foul up the fuel to air ratio when it goes bad. If you know the car needs a new one, I would do that first, before readjusting everything else.

[Cultural_infidel]

The PCV valve will really foul up the fuel to air ratio when it goes bad. If you know the car needs a new one, I would do that first, before readjusting everything else.

I only know that it needs a new one because it didnt come with one! Are all PCV Valves the same? Is this something I can just pick up at a FLAPS?

If it is the accelerator pump, is that an easy fix?

This car is trial by fire for me, and this site is my saving grace!

[R_David]

The accelerator pump diaphragm should come with a carb rebuild kit, never done one so I can't say how difficult that is.

[RadioRoy]

I only know that it needs a new one because it didnt come with one! Are all PCV Valves the same? Is this something I can just pick up at a FLAPS?

This is a case where precise communication is essential.

If the car "did not come with one" does that mean...

a. It was built with one and when you got the car it was missing? If that's the case, then start there. If the car has plumbing for a PCV valve and the valve is missing, then there is a major vacuum leak, because the PCV valve hooks up to engine vacuum. All PCV's are not the same, but if you find one for a similar size engine, it will probably work. Be sure to install it in the correct direction.

If you can't find one, then temporarily plug the hole where it once attached to the carb/intake manifold and see if the car runs better. In fact, try plugging the hole before looking for a valve and see if that helps.

Do this before taking the carburetor apart. The more things you take apart during troubleshooting, the more likely you are to create NEW problems to go along with the existing ones.

b. Or, if the car "did not come with one" means it never had one from the factory, then leave the PCV installation out of the equation and add one later after you have sorted out the fuel/carb/pump issues.

[Cultural_infidel]

This is how the car sits, and how it was when I got it:


Should I go with a unit that goes in to both hoses? or one that screws in to the base of the carb (where the black hose currently is)?

[RadioRoy]

It might be easier to get a PCV valve that goes into both hoses. Your hoses look pretty homemade and ratty, so you might want to replace them both. The one to the carburetor is under vacuum, so that is the one that is critical and must not leak.

If it were my car I would:
check for vacuum leaks first, and fix them.
then I would add the new PCV valve
then fool with the carburetor.

To check for vacuum leaks, get the car warmed up and idling as slowly and as evenly as it will idle. Then spray around the vacuum hoses, the intake manifold edges, and the carburetor body with B-12 Chemtool, or carburetor cleaner, or maybe WD-40 (but the others will work a bit better).

What you are looking for is for the engine to speed up or slow down when you spray somewhere. You must be able to repeat it a few times to be sure you have found the spot. there may be more than one spot that leaks. Make sure the spray is not going down the top of the carburetor into the air intake. Fix the leaks one at a time and check again. Once you get all the leaks fixed, the PCV installed and the idle adjustments perfect, then, if the car still runs ratty, then you can start fuddling with the carburetor. But you must fix the vacuum leaks first.

Remember, if you take something apart that is currently working, you run the risk of creating a second and third problem. The thing to do is figure out what is not working before taking the shotgun approach.

[Cultural_infidel]

It might be easier to get a PCV valve that goes into both hoses. Your hoses look pretty homemade and ratty, so you might want to replace them both. The one to the carburetor is under vacuum, so that is the one that is critical and must not leak.

If it were my car I would:
check for vacuum leaks first, and fix them.
then I would add the new PCV valve
then fool with the carburetor.

To check for vacuum leaks, get the car warmed up and idling as slowly and as evenly as it will idle. Then spray around the vacuum hoses, the intake manifold edges, and the carburetor body with B-12 Chemtool, or carburetor cleaner, or maybe WD-40 (but the others will work a bit better).

What you are looking for is for the engine to speed up or slow down when you spray somewhere. You must be able to repeat it a few times to be sure you have found the spot. there may be more than one spot that leaks. Make sure the spray is not going down the top of the carburetor into the air intake. Fix the leaks one at a time and check again. Once you get all the leaks fixed, the PCV installed and the idle adjustments perfect, then, if the car still runs ratty, then you can start fuddling with the carburetor. But you must fix the vacuum leaks first.

Remember, if you take something apart that is currently working, you run the risk of creating a second and third problem. The thing to do is figure out what is not working before taking the shotgun approach.

Thank you for all of your advice thus far. It has and will help out tremendously.

I ordered a screw in and a push in as well. It was a $10 order. Which ever one works is the one that I will be using. If they have the hose, I will pick that up as well. I should be getting the last of my brake parts here today or tomorrow (i think) and then I will start hammering down on this issue. It is a bit of a pain in the ass since the car isnt at my current house.

I dont plan on taking anything apart that is in good working order. Maybe once I get it all squared away and want to upgrade things. But as of now, all I am trying to do is get it reliable.