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Replace rusty hawk floorpans need your experienced help

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  • #16
    I would also love to see pics of this process. I'll be attempting this on my 58 hawk soon.

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    • #17
      Door Gaps

      One thing to add,

      As Jeff stated bracing before cutting is critical but also make sure any body sag causing poor door gaps is supported before bracing. Make sure the doors fit before you cut it apart. I have seen several botched chopped tops because the doors didn't fit before cutting commenced.

      Good luck,

      Jon Kammer

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      • #18
        As Jon said, Not only make sure the door gaps fit BEFORE you brace it, but BEFORE you weld it up! It is a lot easier to change them before you weld them! I bought a 62 convertible that was "freshly painted" off eBay. When it was delivered, the door gaps looked good, but, further inspection showed that the gaps were way too big, and the "moron" filled the weatherstrip channel with bondo, and then painted the car. I ended up cutting off the "new rockers" and cut the floor, used a come a long to pull the door gaps back, then welded everything back up. I did have an advantage, as I had it set up on one of the frame racks at the shop, and I had all the proper equitment available to me. Just be sure to "Check, Check, Check" all the gaps before, DURING, and after.

        Jim
        "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

        We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


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        • #19
          Thank you for the tips on door gaps.. another variable to put it into perspective, I will make sure I put this on my list..Mike

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          • #20
            I apprerciate your input on the door gaps and sags, I have put this good info on my list..Thanks for your imput. We have gotten quite a few other floorpan replacement folks on our forum,thats good..Thanks for the heads up..Mike

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            • #21
              Now I know why they would'nt let me use silverhawk1958,(which is what I have,) as my sign on name..you already had it..Well I'm glad that there are at least two of us out there replacing our ''1958 Silver Hawk floor pans.If we get this zeroed in, by help from all of our friends on this forum, you and I will feel much better,and be more well informed to ''sucessfully achieve our goal,of changing those floor pans out.
              Last edited by hawk58man; 01-12-2011, 04:37 PM.

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              • #22
                I will keep you in the loop, will keep you informed.. Thanks Mike..

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by 3x2stude View Post
                  One thing to add,

                  As Jeff stated bracing before cutting is critical but also make sure any body sag causing poor door gaps is supported before bracing. Make sure the doors fit before you cut it apart. I have seen several botched chopped tops because the doors didn't fit before cutting commenced.

                  Good luck,

                  Jon Kammer
                  Good point and here's my door gap results as you can see the gap is the same top to bottom.
                  Attached Files
                  sigpic He's got the "car"...now if I can only get the Matchboxes back!

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                  • #24
                    I'm glad I found this thread, it's great to see all the photos and get the info from those that have been there before. I just hope that as I get through each step of my project that I can in-turn help someone else with theirs.

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                    • #25
                      Here's a neat pic
                      Attached Files
                      sigpic He's got the "car"...now if I can only get the Matchboxes back!

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                      • #26
                        I'm jealous that you have a lift,but thats the way to do it,thanks for the pics on the door gaps..all things are helpfull..

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                        • #27
                          I think this is still within topic - - I was curious what welding equipment people are using for floor patching. I'm leaning toward the Miller MIG welder with the gas bottle (forgot the model #) as an upcoming purchase but was curious what the statistics are among others.

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                          • #28
                            Mike,
                            Don't know if you are anywhere near Chicago. If so, i wouldn't mind coming out to assist with the floor for a day.
                            It would allow me to gain some experience on a Hawk floor before I tackle mine. Last floor I welded was in 87.

                            Brian
                            sigpic 62 Hawk - Wisconsin barn find

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                            • #29
                              Geoff

                              I'll bet a search will turn up several posts but I use a 160 Amp Century Mig that works well. Any quality Mig will work but be sure it has infinitely variable Wire Speed and Heat. Otherwise it makes adjustment difficult.

                              Bob

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                              • #30
                                Brian,I could sure use a good hand like yours, but I live outside of Spokane Washington so I guess we can encourage each other thru this forum to ''Get er done"" I'm using a Clark EN180Mig that runs off 220 volts I run a bottle of Stargon gas, and stay away from fluxed MIG wire. The guy in AutoRestorer magazine just did a evaluation /test in his magazine on the Eastwood Mig welder thats similiar to the Miller 175.He put it thru its paces for his auto restoration bussiness on tack welding,blind welds ,stich welds and so on. I don't work for Auto Restorer Magazine but it covers everything that I need for the work needed for my cars and trucks. It is the best Magazine I've found for restoration and mechanics of autos and trucks. and I agree with sweetoldbob on the MIG with infinet wire speed and heat in order to get it dialed in correctly. Silverhawk 1958, hows your Hawk coming along.?? Best Regards , from the ''other 1958' SilverHawk"" Mike
                                Last edited by hawk58man; 01-10-2011, 06:39 PM.

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