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1964 Daytona - Rear window trim removal

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  • Body / Glass: 1964 Daytona - Rear window trim removal

    Hi everyone,

    I need to remove the rear window trim on my 64 Daytona to try and fix a leaking seal. It's a new seal don't know why it's leaking.

    I read that a special tool is required to release the clips behind the the trim. Is this the tool that's needed?


    Click image for larger version

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    Thanks

    Steve

  • #2
    That should do the trick. Explain or describe the "rear window" leak. It could be deteriorated body caulk between the rear fender junction and the rear deck that is leaking into the trunk!

    Comment


    • #3
      The reason for the Leak could depend on what type of Sealant if any, was used Rubber to Body and Rubber to Glass.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
      SDC Member Since 1967

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
        The reason for the Leak could depend on what type of Sealant if any, was used Rubber to Body and Rubber to Glass.
        During the restoration my dad removed both the front and rear windows. I am not sure why he removed the rear but the front was smashed and we bought a new one. I remember picking it up at the meet in South Bend in 2007.

        The summer before he died a friend of a friend who was a body guy put the windows back in (he did it for free becauae of my dads terminal cancer situation). I thought everything was done properly until I took car in for a front end alignment and car had to sit out in the rain for a while. Saw water in the trunk and my brand new package tray was wrecked as well.

        i've been phoning around trying the find a glass place to look at it but no one will touch it.

        I don't know what to do.

        Comment


        • #5
          Here's a picture of the car from yesterday at a car show in Gimli, Manitoba with my son in front of it.
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #6
            Pour a bit of water on the bottom corners of the back window, then look inside the trunk below those corners for water. Then feel the bottom edge of the
            pinch weld joining the rear fender to the back deck. If you feel water at that edge, then you have found the leak. Remove the bottom trim strip and pack the
            body union at those points with dum-dum and then test again with water. If no more leak,then replace the trim. If not you may have to reseal the full length of the pinch weld to the trunk opening. After cleaning the old caulk out of the pinch-weld, I recommend urethane white window caulk forced into the slit until it
            shows or oozes out at the inside of the pinch-weld. Of course, mask off the painted surfaces to protect them.

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            • #7
              Here is what the shop manual says. The tool you show does not look right to me.

              Click image for larger version

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              sigpic

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              • #8
                Use the tool Steve shows in his post above, The illustration above shows how it goes over the pinch weld. The tool in the Studebaker picture 44B looks really mickey mouse! The clips are basically the same as what GM used around the same period except the GM clips were held by welded studs in the window opening while Studebaker used a clip that was retained by the pinch weld. The same tool is used to release the clip from the molding. Spray the rubber with wd-40 or similar so the tool slides over the rubber easier. When you find the clip position you may have to lift the tool so it goes down into the opening & not get caught on the "roll" of the trim molding. I would do the 2 side moldings first, then start on the other 2 at the ends working to the middle. On those, once you get a couple of the clips released you may be able to pull the molding out to the side, being careful not to bend it of course. You do have to seal both the glass to rubber & the rubber to body. I have not done it in years. Back then there was good products offered for use. You might check with Eastwood & see what they have offered.
                59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                64 Zip Van
                66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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                • #9
                  What Warren said. I have done a couple of 64 Studes plus several GM cars with the type of tool shown in post #1. After the first couple of clips are released, you'll get the hang of it.
                  Skip Lackie

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                  • #10
                    Skip Lackie Warren Webb Thanks for the advice. Can I use this tool on the front windshield as well using same technique?

                    Thanks

                    Steve

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      No. The windshield trim is an earlier style that is attached to the rubber gasket, and both have to be installed/removed together.
                      Skip Lackie

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                      • #12
                        If your windshield is leaking, I have had good luck with flowable silicone that comes in a tube. Just tape off the glass and let the silicone flow . It came in clear and black the last time I used it. Nice Daytona
                        Bob
                        Bob
                        Welland Ontario
                        60 Lark Convertible
                        64 Daytona
                        sigpic
                        "They were meant to be driven ... so keep on cruizin"

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by pinehurstbob View Post
                          If your windshield is leaking, I have had good luck with flowable silicone that comes in a tube. Just tape off the glass and let the silicone flow . It came in clear and black the last time I used it. Nice Daytona
                          Bob
                          Thanks for the advice Bob

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                          • #14
                            The wire-type tool works well. I have one and the wire is very rigid.

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