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1964 Daytona - Rear window trim removal
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Originally posted by StudeRich View PostThe reason for the Leak could depend on what type of Sealant if any, was used Rubber to Body and Rubber to Glass.
The summer before he died a friend of a friend who was a body guy put the windows back in (he did it for free becauae of my dads terminal cancer situation). I thought everything was done properly until I took car in for a front end alignment and car had to sit out in the rain for a while. Saw water in the trunk and my brand new package tray was wrecked as well.
i've been phoning around trying the find a glass place to look at it but no one will touch it.
I don't know what to do.
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Pour a bit of water on the bottom corners of the back window, then look inside the trunk below those corners for water. Then feel the bottom edge of the
pinch weld joining the rear fender to the back deck. If you feel water at that edge, then you have found the leak. Remove the bottom trim strip and pack the
body union at those points with dum-dum and then test again with water. If no more leak,then replace the trim. If not you may have to reseal the full length of the pinch weld to the trunk opening. After cleaning the old caulk out of the pinch-weld, I recommend urethane white window caulk forced into the slit until it
shows or oozes out at the inside of the pinch-weld. Of course, mask off the painted surfaces to protect them.
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Use the tool Steve shows in his post above, The illustration above shows how it goes over the pinch weld. The tool in the Studebaker picture 44B looks really mickey mouse! The clips are basically the same as what GM used around the same period except the GM clips were held by welded studs in the window opening while Studebaker used a clip that was retained by the pinch weld. The same tool is used to release the clip from the molding. Spray the rubber with wd-40 or similar so the tool slides over the rubber easier. When you find the clip position you may have to lift the tool so it goes down into the opening & not get caught on the "roll" of the trim molding. I would do the 2 side moldings first, then start on the other 2 at the ends working to the middle. On those, once you get a couple of the clips released you may be able to pull the molding out to the side, being careful not to bend it of course. You do have to seal both the glass to rubber & the rubber to body. I have not done it in years. Back then there was good products offered for use. You might check with Eastwood & see what they have offered.59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
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Skip Lackie Warren Webb Thanks for the advice. Can I use this tool on the front windshield as well using same technique?
Thanks
Steve
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If your windshield is leaking, I have had good luck with flowable silicone that comes in a tube. Just tape off the glass and let the silicone flow . It came in clear and black the last time I used it. Nice Daytona
BobBob
Welland Ontario
60 Lark Convertible
64 Daytona
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"They were meant to be driven ... so keep on cruizin"
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