Engine: Stripped Timing Gear Cover Bolts

[SurfaceNavy]

Any tricks to tapping or otherwise fixing stripped timing gear cover bolts on my flathead 6?

Getting after a leak in the front and discovered two of the four bolts had been stripped and oil was coming out below the cover. There is not enough room between the flywheel and the bolt holes to fit a drill to tap.

Pulling the engine to remove the flywheel is a no-go and need some way to get some torque on the bolts to cinch the cover down. If I can't tap bigger bolts from the front can the holes be accessed from the other side if I drop the oil pan? Not something I look forward to given the other posts I've read so hoping someone has done this without removing parts.

[altair]

I had to rethread mine went the next size up to 5/16 this is in the aluminum spacer, my dampner was off though

[altair]

Some members use the term dampener and some use damper there is a very subtle difference in the definition. With the "N" means to depress a vibration, with out the "N" means a device for checking vibration, the real difference is negligible

[r1lark]

Are the stripped timing cover bolts some of the ones in the aluminum filler block? If so, you should be able to heli-coil these without pulling the engine. I've done it on V8s before. Without knowing what year & model Stude you have, and not being able to look under the hood, I would still think that if you remove the radiator, the harmonic balancer (what I think you are referring to as the "flywheel") and the crankshaft hub, and remove the timing cover, you can drill/tap/helicoil the filler block. I helicoil these filler blocks as a matter of course on any engine I rebuild.

You might be able to do the helicoils without removing the timing cover, but if you have it this far apart, you might as well pull that too and replace the gasket.

[SurfaceNavy]

Yes, talking about the same part but it looks to be called a "flywheel, vibration damper" in the chassis manual (?)
This is a 1953 Champion engine. No idea what part of it is aluminum.

Anything else recommended to replace with the radiator out and the timing cover removed?

[Jeffry Cassel]

Very common problem as the metal is soft and grease monkeys over tighten the bolts and strip the threads. Best thing is to pull the cover and oil pan and replace the filler block. Good plan 'B' is a Helicoil. The bolt holes do not go through and through so don't drill through. Can you get a right angle close quartes drill in there? If so (you can get one cheap at Harbor Freight) drill it out tap it for Helicoil . Don't drill through. Of course there always my favorite fix---use lots of RTV gasket maker/sealer! Champions are like the Packard I am fighting with--ther is all that room but nothing is easily accessible. Like they said above; get some working room. Trying to do it the 'easy' way will only make it more difficult.

[SurfaceNavy]

I just saw a pic of a filler block on eBay and see that it is metal....thought it was cork or something other kind of seal!

Seems that the bolt holes on mine go through the block. I can stick wire through the hole and touch the inside of my oil pan.

Probably a good idea to replace the filler block but it seems that every time I touch something it trips or breaks. I'm afraid of taking the pan off and having problems installing as I've read in other posts!

[altair]

You might just try longer bolts, the remaining bolts for the cover are relatively short as they go into cast iron, the same bolts that go into the aluminum spacer are too short and only enter the aluminum spacer a few threads and therefore are easily stripped, try a 1 inch bolt and see if it will hold with the remaining good threads deeper in the spacer. Usually only the first three threads are stripped out and the remainder of the threads are good.

[SurfaceNavy]

Thanks much Altair! This would be an awesomely easy fix!

[altair]

It is worth a try

[StudeRich]

Just be careful of some of these well meaning, helpful tips, because most of us are familiar with V8's and the Sixes are only similar, NOT the same !

[nels]

Another easy fix…maybe. I had that problem on a V8 a long time ago. I went with the next size up bolt of the same length. That bolt would pilot through the cover with minimal clearance. Once in position I put a screw driver against the bolt head and leveraged using the harmonic balance all while I gently threaded the bolt into the die cast filler block. The bolt acted as a tap and the stripped threads were the approximate diameter needed to tap the larger bolt. I did it to two bolts and it worked fine.

[SurfaceNavy]

Another easy fix…maybe. I had that problem on a V8 a long time ago. I went with the next size up bolt of the same length. That bolt would pilot through the cover with minimal clearance. Once in position I put a screw driver against the bolt head and leveraged using the harmonic balance all while I gently threaded the bolt into the die cast filler block. The bolt acted as a tap and the stripped threads were the approximate diameter needed to tap the larger bolt. I did it to two bolts and it worked fine.

I just tried that, using a 3/8 instead of the 5/16, but I didn't put any leverage on it so it no joy. Gonna give your idea a go! thx

[SurfaceNavy]

Just be careful of some of these well meaning, helpful tips, because most of us are familiar with V8's and the Sixes are only similar, NOT the same !

You half killed my success Rich with that jinx! Of the two stripped bolts, the worst offending one actually sealed up great with a longer bolt. The other is stripped out entirely by the previous owner(s). Curious on thoughts about the importance of getting this bolt snugged to the proper torque assuming I can get something else in there to seal it up. Pic of the exact bolt location attached?

Other than the obvious that "it's there for a reason", is this particular bolt critical to sealing anything?

[SurfaceNavy]

Another easy fix…maybe. I had that problem on a V8 a long time ago. I went with the next size up bolt of the same length. That bolt would pilot through the cover with minimal clearance. Once in position I put a screw driver against the bolt head and leveraged using the harmonic balance all while I gently threaded the bolt into the die cast filler block. The bolt acted as a tap and the stripped threads were the approximate diameter needed to tap the larger bolt. I did it to two bolts and it worked fine.

Seeing also that there are self-tapping bolts..so maybe one of those with your idea would work in my situation (?)

[SurfaceNavy]

Another easy fix…maybe. I had that problem on a V8 a long time ago. I went with the next size up bolt of the same length. That bolt would pilot through the cover with minimal clearance. Once in position I put a screw driver against the bolt head and leveraged using the harmonic balance all while I gently threaded the bolt into the die cast filler block. The bolt acted as a tap and the stripped threads were the approximate diameter needed to tap the larger bolt. I did it to two bolts and it worked fine.

This idea worked, thanks! I used thread cutting screws one size up. Got them from Amazon and they worked great.