Fuel System: Buying heat insulator 9266 for Edelbrock 1406 , are studes dual plane manifolds?

[mw2013]

they say ethanol in today's fuels exacerbates the hard hot start, anyone have success with it product? i want to assure I buy the right one for the stude, thanks

https://www.edelbrock.com/heat-insulator-gasket-for-divided-4150-square-bore-0-320-thick-9266.html

[PackardV8]

Yes, Studebaker V8 intakes are dual plane.

they say ethanol in today's fuels exacerbates the hard hot start,

An electric fuel pump to prime the carburetor is my go-to solution.

jack vines

[64studeavanti]

Stock Stude AFB manifolds are dual plane. As to effectiveness of the isolator, I don't have any experience.

[mw2013]

Yes, Studebaker V8 intakes are dual plane.

An electric fuel pump to prime the carburetor is my go-to solution.

jack vines

has only e-pump still hard start when hot

[DEEPNHOCK]

Best way to control heat in a mild climate low mileage driven hobby Stude is to prevent the heat from getting into the intake.
That Edelbrock gasket is for the wider holes/studs and will only work on the later/latest Stude 4bbl intake.

A better choice would be an Edelbrock p/n#8723, or a Mr. Gasket p/n#98.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/carburetor_gaskets_adapters_and_spacers/adapters_and_spacers/parts/98

https://www.edelbrock.com/carburetor-spacer-4150-style-1-2-4-hole-spacer-wood-fiber-laminate-8723.html

[mw2013]

Best way to control heat in a mild climate low mileage driven hobby Stude is to prevent the heat from getting into the intake.
That Edelbrock gasket is for the wider holes/studs and will only work on the later/latest Stude 4bbl intake.

A better choice would be an Edelbrock p/n#8723, or a Mr. Gasket p/n#98.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/carburetor_gaskets_adapters_and_spacers/adapters_and_spacers/parts/98

https://www.edelbrock.com/carburetor...nate-8723.html

i already ordered it, it's got the 1406 on it now and should gasket match the carb, soo if the 9266 helps first thanks gents again

[RadioRoy]

Be sure to check hood clearance before slamming the hood down.

[mw2013]

Be sure to check hood clearance before slamming the hood down.

for some reason there are 3 paper gaskets in there now, and it looks like 1/4" thick stack, this device is 3/8" no need for gaskets, but i will check before slamming, i would be irritated if i dent it

[PackardV8]

FWIW, It's been my experience the spacer is an attempt to keep heat away from the carb float bowl so the fuel won't boil out on hot soak. If you already have an electric fuel pump, it should be refilling the bowl prior to start.

One change which keeps heat away from the intake is to remove the exhaust heat riser valve in the exhaust, use R2 intake gaskets and some even pack the cylinder head exhaust crossover passage with aluminum foil.

Please report back any differences you notice with the spacer.

jack vines

[mw2013]

can you elaborate what is a heat riser valve, is it visible from outside the engine and you say exhaust gasses crossover in the intake manifold?

[PackardV8]

can you elaborate what is a heat riser valve, is it visible from outside the engine and you say exhaust gasses crossover in the intake manifold?

Yes, the heat riser valve is visible between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust downpipe. The purpose is on cold starts to push exhaust gas from the center two cylinders up through the cylinder head and into the bottom of the intake manifold, heating the carburetor. Midwesterners in cold damp climates need exhaust heat. You in LaLaLand, do not.

The R2 intake manifold gasket fits between the cylinder head and the intake manifold. It restricts the exhaust gas from heating the intake. Packing the head passage with aluminum foil does this even better.

jack vines

[64studeavanti]

for some reason there are 3 paper gaskets in there now, and it looks like 1/4" thick stack, this device is 3/8" no need for gaskets, but i will check before slamming, i would be irritated if i dent it

IIRC, the stack of 3 gaskets is stock on Avanti engines.

[bensherb]

When I had my manifold off I machined a small sholder around the exhaust crossover ports and inlayed a .040 steel sheet into them to eliminate the crossover. Also to help the hot start problem, I took the fuel pump, filter and as much of the fuel line as I could out of the engine compartment. I only have 18" of insulated fuel line there now, from the inner fender to the carb. No more hot start or vapor lock issues.

I'm not sure if you have a Hawk or not, but on my Hawk 289 I have a 1" phenolic spacer under my carb a 3 1/2" thick air filter and a big wing nut. It's still almost an inch below the hood at the highest point. I do have a small outward dent in my hood though. Got it when one of the stock style rubber engine mounts broke, on acceleration and the filter stud hit the hood. The fan also hit the shroud and destroyed the fan and shroud too. I no longer have stock rubber engine mounts, a massive shroud or belt driven fan.

[mw2013]

ok so i bought it and my bad , i didn't realize my carb is mounted with the inner bolts, and edelbrock say's no no....

so what is the solution? come hell or high water i am putting this in, including changing the manifold ( at least the distributor doesn't have to come out)





looks like someone put in an adaptor to get the 1406 carb to fit, i guess i could get the right ones like deepnhock says, i should read better, and i noticed that the change from a 160 to a 180 thermostat made it worse

i may have to deal with the exhaust source going into the manifold, that is lame

if i take the manifold out , i could stuff the exhaust heat will aluminum like Mr. Jack Vines suggests so that will help with the hard starting when hot.... i am so over the problem, i stalled the car on an intersection once( auto transmission, my back up throttle return spring was not taunt enough and the idle was all over the place), and that was a wouldn't start blocking traffic shif show

any suggestion would be appreciated, do they make an aluminum aftermarket intake manifold readily available to plug and play?

[mw2013]

Yes, the heat riser valve is visible between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust downpipe. The purpose is on cold starts to push exhaust gas from the center two cylinders up through the cylinder head and into the bottom of the intake manifold, heating the carburetor. Midwesterners in cold damp climates need exhaust heat. You in LaLaLand, do not.

The R2 intake manifold gasket fits between the cylinder head and the intake manifold. It restricts the exhaust gas from heating the intake. Packing the head passage with aluminum foil does this even better.

jack vines

will packing alone and not using the r2 gaskets be sufficient?,

or must all 3 be done, remove heat riser ( how hard is this to do, does this require welding or something like that?), pack ( how densely do you pack? ) the cylinder heads with foil and use the r2 gaskets ( who sells them? SI?)