Buying heat insulator 9266 for Edelbrock 1406 , are studes dual plane manifolds?

[StudeRich]

Bingo! Are you running enough CHOKE!

[mw2013]

I did this a couple of years ago and I am very pleased with the result. I did the following:
1) I replaced the heat riser valve with a spacer.
2) I packed the hot exhaust flow through space under the Edelbrock carb with small compressed balls of aluminum foil stuffing in as many as I could as tightly as I could.
3) However, at each end of the cross over I left an empty space of about 3/4” deep. Into that void I packed in thoroughly kneeded/mixed high heat JB WELD Epoxy Putty (or was it SteelStick—not sure which it was). I then l shaved off the excess with a single edge razor blade so it was perfectly level with the mating surface of the intake manifold.
4) Then I mounted the intake manifold using two composition gaskets with the cross over ports blocked off.

For me this has eliminated slow idle and engine dying at stoplights in hot weather and difficulty restarting a hot engine in hot weather.

now were getting somewhere, thank you

look at my picture, i have a pipe coming out of the right side, what is that and how to get rid of it?

where do you buy the gaskets, what felpro # is it?

what is the science of making little aluminum pellets? vs cramming a whole sheet in there?

i stuffed the heads and i created an exhaust obstruction, the engine was laboring to rev lol, hope i didn't hurt the valves

finally

somebody show me what is a heat riser, i looked everywhere for it and i don't have them

[mw2013]

Bingo! Are you running enough CHOKE!

why you need choke on a hot as hell motor?

i defeated the choke, since i thought it was closing on me at the gas station visits, and would not start, so i unplugged it and backed it off

[StudeRich]

If the Right Exhaust Head Pipe bolts right up against the Exhaust Manifold as you say, the Heat Riser Valve was removed when the new Exhaust System was made and installed.

[mw2013]

If the Right Exhaust Head Pipe bolts right up against the Exhaust Manifold as you say, the Heat Riser Valve was removed when the new Exhaust System was made and installed.

so Rich you say on my car the 289 v8 the heat riser on only one side and that would be the right side?

and my head pipe does bolt directly to the exhaust manifold.

but i still don't know how it works and what it does,is it like an exhaust cutout with a flap on a pivot to direct or restrict flow?

is this automatic heat related activation? and where does the heat gets directed to?

[mw2013]

https://forum.studebakerdriversclub....iser-operation

see it's not only me that don't get it

so here is a pics of the right side head pipe

[mw2013]

Here are some photos

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GREAT-STUFF-16-oz-Fireblock-Insulating-Foam-Sealant-with-Quick-Stop-Straw-99053992/207077797

could i spray this fireproof stuff in it? and then seal with JB muffler weld?

[DEEPNHOCK]

Apologies for not being clear enough with my prose... Let's take a stab at your questions, which are all good questions.
I'll put 'my' response in bold and dark blue for clarity.
Bear in mind that these are my opinions, but I base them on experiences...both good and bad.
Jeff

i am completely lost, so you say my problem, is so prevalent that you have put together a "kit" that comprises of Composite intake gaskets?

Yes, I do have a kit. I prefer the composite gaskets for two reasons. The OE style stock stamped steel gaskets were originally designed to be inexpensive to manufacture. The work well with 'new' intake manifold and head surfaces (ans the same for exhaust). But over the years, heads get mixed and surfaces get less than pristeen. Gasket sealing gets more challenging. I have found that a good quality composite gasket will give the installer a better sealing experience. Also the gasket has enough 'give' so the thin stainless block off plate can be used without any machining, Reynolds Wrap wads, or molten metal shennanigans.

what is your company and how much do you charge?, do you have a web page and some pictures of this "kit" i would like to order it, but do i need to by the myer's insulator, or can i go with something else? and can't i use my studs and nut?

I suggested the Myer's as a heat insulating carb base gasket source for two reasons. (1) Theirs work (2) I was buying mine from them and marking them up, making it more expensive for you. I can get them and put them in the kit. Your choice. I am sure there are other quality Studebaker parts vendors that offer a similar heat insulating/thick carb gasket.
As far as studs and nuts. Sure. Use yours. I put them in my kit because my kit is usually sold with an intake manifold, and new stainless steel studs and nuts will outlast all of us.

there is now fel pro metal gasket in there now

I explained that a couple steps above. But, to keep this conversation CASO, let's also hit an item that will help these steel shim gaskets. I have done several installations using 'modified' Fel-Pro steel gaskets.. What I did was to take some Permatex
'Ultra Copper' gasket sealer and fill the little groove in the steel gasket. Scrape it off flush with a flat razor blade and let is set up overnight. Install normal and torque using factory sequence and torque specs. That works, but I still prefer the composite gasket.

and someone said R2 gaskets will not have the exhaust holes in them, and another said they will have a 3/8" in hole in them.

I am not aware of what you speak. What R2 gaskets are you talking about?

do i even need to cut the kickdown tab? look below seems to clear fine

You picture shows you are running a carb adapter/spacer plate. With that you do not need to trim the GM a/t kickdown link tab off your AFB. But... If your intake manifold is indeed an old WCFB 'square bore' carb, the four throttle bore holes will all be the same size, The newer AFB's all have a larger secondary throttle bore. Running the later AFB on a WCFB intake will cause the secondary throttle butterflies to hit the manifold. Running a thick stack of carb gaskets will raise the carb up enough to allow the butterflies to open..but. This introduces a nasty 'step. into the secondary airstream, causing unneeded turbulence and a loss of potential added power. The spacer or adapter plate does not, in my opinion, resolve this step issue. You can open up the secondary throttle bore to the AFB size and not need the adapter plate/riser. That will drop your carb down, which helps with the hood challenged applications. But with the carb down, that GM a/t tab gets in the way.

what wrong with your first recommendation of these? can i avoid having to trim the kickdown tab?, i don't have anything to cut it with.

Nothing is 'wrong'. There are just more than one way to accomplish your goal. My suggestion(s) are the easiest way I know to get a good reliable resolution without jumping through too many hoops. My suggestions are geared for the casual installer to be able to bolt it all on without resorting to a full machine shop full of tools. As far as not having anything to cut it with? BTDT.
Everybody has to start somewhere or decide what they don't want to have to do to get there. If you don't have the tools, then search out a friend that does. I often make friends that have something I don't. (There's a joke there.. I know it).
Hang in there...

finally i did not see a heat riser, in my car, i looked and i checked both sides, do you have a picture and describe how it works so i can un work it?

In your picture, you can see your exhaust pipe has been modified to eliminate the heat crossover. It is gone.
You don't need to do anything, except avoid driving in the NW Territories in February.

[DEEPNHOCK]

[QUOTE=mw2013;n1881890]we'll i took off the manifold and i stuffed the heads with aluminum foil but the right side had a pipe from the manifold so i had to stuff the manifold around the pipe ( the easiest induction system R and R ever)

but

the car started spitting out bits of foil , when i put in a single sheet, and the car felt like it had an exhaust obstruction , am i suppose to stuff the heads or the manifolds?

It now does have an obstruction. Get that foil out of there..

i am trying this stuff first , I called HFI , nice fella, it's 1400.00 bucks I may need to put off for later what is with this tube, if i get an R2 gasket do i cut this off?

That tube sticking out of your older style intake manifold it the OE choke stove tube.
In your current setup, you can cut it off, but keep the gasket surface as pristeen as you can.

(Opinion) Sort out what you have. Learn how it works.
Don't change to some other expensive setup thinking it will solve a problem
Studebakers are simple machines, with simple problems, with simple solutions.

am i suppose to stuff the heads or the manifold, both ways seem flimsy

Bingo! Flimsy is the right word...

like i said it was spitting aluminum bits of foil out the tail pipes, luckily i have cherry bomb mufflers and not some reverse flow

Hold on... Do yourself a favor. Get all that foil crap out of your heads and intake.
It will end up hurting your engine.
Mufflers are not a filter for aluminum. If some of that crap falls down against your exhaust valve it can fall into your cylinder and really mess up your rings and cylinder walls.

[DEEPNHOCK]

could i spray this fireproof stuff in it? and then seal with JB muffler weld?

No. No. and No...
All that stuff will get destroyed, and the residue/ash/chunks will fall into your heads by the exhaust valves.
Not good.

[mw2013]

don't put aluminum in the spaces, drove the car around the block a single sheet on each side crumpled and stuffed, turned into small pieces shooting out the tailpipes at start up, went around the block and opedned her up and one side had none remaining , pull some plugs and saw some small flecks.. correction saw 1 microscopic fleck ea in the 2 plugs i took out, but still; don't do it


and someone sure stacked the carb up with a lot of doodads

[mw2013]

[QUOTE=DEEPNHOCK;n1881964]

we'll i took off the manifold and i stuffed the heads with aluminum foil but the right side had a pipe from the manifold so i had to stuff the manifold around the pipe ( the easiest induction system R and R ever)

but

the car started spitting out bits of foil , when i put in a single sheet, and the car felt like it had an exhaust obstruction , am i suppose to stuff the heads or the manifolds?

It now does have an obstruction. Get that foil out of there..

i am trying this stuff first , I called HFI , nice fella, it's 1400.00 bucks I may need to put off for later what is with this tube, if i get an R2 gasket do i cut this off?

That tube sticking out of your older style intake manifold it the OE choke stove tube.
In your current setup, you can cut it off, but keep the gasket surface as pristeen as you can.

(Opinion) Sort out what you have. Learn how it works.
Don't change to some other expensive setup thinking it will solve a problem
Studebakers are simple machines, with simple problems, with simple solutions.

am i suppose to stuff the heads or the manifold, both ways seem flimsy

Bingo! Flimsy is the right word...

like i said it was spitting aluminum bits of foil out the tail pipes, luckily i have cherry bomb mufflers and not some reverse flow

Hold on... Do yourself a favor. Get all that foil crap out of your heads and intake.
It will end up hurting your engine.
Mufflers are not a filter for aluminum. If some of that crap falls down against your exhaust valve it can fall into your cylinder and really mess up your rings and cylinder walls.

Thanks Sir,

I am prepping for your gasket kit, I went to HFT and got a bargain air cutter and a die grinder 12 and 10 bucks, so for the first time I used air tools with my compressor at work, the sparks flew, but the tab is trimmed

when the carbide bits come i'll try my hand in the wcfb to afb manifold conversion port match you talked me thru

[Topper2011]

I removed my heat riser valve out of my Hawk, even though it tested ok and replaced it with an exhaust flange.

[mw2013]

I removed my heat riser valve out of my Hawk, even though it tested ok and replaced it with an exhaust flange.

that is way more work than what i am going thru exhaust pipes don't like to move for me

[Bill Graepel]

Hot start = non-issue. Live in SE Florida. '56 Power Hawk with '58 289 from Packard / manual steering & brakes / no A-C / GM700R-4 (from PO..sucks) / Dana 44 @ 331 / Pertronix ignition module w- standard coil and ballast resistor.
FLAPS e-pump about 16 inches from tank on left frame rail (mechanical pump removed) / cheapo pressure regulator set at 4-5 pounds / plastic fuel filter / steel and rubber fuel line (no return line to tank) to Edelbrock 1403 carb w- 1" alum spacer on stock manifold with 1 gasket (NOTE: fuel line does not come near intake manifold) / original stock radiator with stock shroud.
USE NON-ETHANOL FUEL ONLY. No starting or idling problems ever. What did I do right or wrong?
Bill G.