1955 Studebaker Commander 4dr Ultra Vista Regal

[Craig]

Ran a compression test to be sure I wasn't missing an opportunity to pull the engine.




140+142+144+140+140+138+147+145= 1136

1136/8 = 142 psi avg.

all plugs dry except number 8 slightly oily.

Throttle open, about 5 crank sound cycles per cylinder (6 volt ).

Number 2 behind generator most difficult to access, but not too bad.

[tsenecal]

Those are great numbers. It should run very well. The whole car seems to be in good condition, just in time for some fun driving.

[Craig]

Working on the chassis bottom today, quite a work out.



Disconnected starter cable top of starter, 5/8" wrench for nut.
The two starter bolts were 5/8 head with 11/16 nuts.

Three of four tie rod ends came off with Harbor Freight fork tool ($10), one central end had a loose taper and so the nut would not come off.
Just spun the rod off the LH thread end, counted ten threads showing for install.

Every forked off tie rod end boot was damaged, but they all looked needing replacement anyway.

Pulled the 5/16 hex grease fitting from the bell crank shaft support tower.

Looks like the drag link is easier removed at Pittman arm rather than bell crank.

[Craig]

Removed all the remaining steering linkage - bell crank upper/lower and drag link.


Now faced with exhaust crossover removal.
Too hot to continue work, tomorrow morning maybe.

Olive Garden lunch, beer, desert.
Cheers to my Vietnam buddy killed in 66, Sherwin Schoppe, San Antonio, Texas.

Miss you bro.

[Craig]

Backed off the Pittman arm/draglink nut and forked it off. but left it loosely connected to allow solid positioning for bell crank nut and bolt removal. Reached from front and rear of the large frame cross member with 9/16 sockets and loosened/removed bell crank nut, washer, bolt .....Pittman arm/draglink fully forward.

After the bell crank (green) was loose, removed the two short and two long bolts holding the bell crank support tower (light blue) and everything fell apart with ease. The drag link (yellow) was left connected to the bell crank and will go back together as an assembly.

[Craig]

well engine was looking pretty promising when viewed from the top......and the compression ckd good....and it started and ran pretty well.

But underneath the engine it was pouring out oil appeared to rear main, also the pan gasket, also the valve cover gaskets, also the timing cover. also the steering box.

Broke stud on the left exhaust manifold removing exhaust pipe.

Removing this left manifold found me analyzing how much work I was going to do on my back. Also how much/many of the leaks were fixable with engine in place.

Something snapped



Prepping for removal.

Hood and bell housing bolts are next.

[Craig]

Hood came off today, everything disconnected, I am unable to find the mount arms for my engine stand.




To get to bellhousing bolts the panel must be removed.



Swivel socket used for the lower bolts.

Engine stand mount brackets found!

[Craig]

Engine out today, heads off, piston/crank out as well.
$25 engine hoist rental





What a fricking mess disassembling an engine at home shop.
Recommended machine shop is 110miles away.
My van gets 15mpg, $4.60 gas, figure 15 gallons round trip =$70

[Craig]

Rod bearing from number 8 piston/rod.



Appears OEM from the dates 1 55, 12-54.


Main bearings show same dating.

[Craig]

Engine components at machine shop.
Steering box seal leaking.
Borrowed an Advance Auto tool No3 with $140 deposit.


The long arm tool on the right was used.
Torqued down with 1/2" drive ratchet with pipe extension.
rapped arm with hammer and all popped off.
returned tool set to Advance Auto and got a full refund $140.


Found the arm was already factory marked to match the factory marking already on the shaft end.





drilled the shaft seal 1/8" hole, screwed in a sheet rock screw, Pulled old seal out.




used a 1" deep socket to tap in new seal from Steven Allen Studebaker No.679257

Cleaning up the steering box and area surrounding is the real task.
I used to buy Varsol at local truck stop right out of a fuel pump, but it has been 15 years. Now I cant find Varsol.



pitman arm going back on with index lined up.
you cant turn the steering wheel while this arm is off or you will be "out of center" with the steering box travel. Just rope tie the steering wheel spoke to the brake pedal.

[Craig]

Today was rear shock replacement day.
New front/rear gas charged shocks from Stephen Allen.
Difficulty was removing upper 11/16 nuts. Required pipe extension on rachet all the way off. You don't have to hold the upper bolt heads as they index into the frame cross member with a special hex head. Lower bolts do require 5/8 head holding.


Bead blasted most pieces, Chased threads on nuts and bolts, Eastwood silver cad, etc.
Made install like new, spin nuts on by hand.

Gas tank out made it easier for me.
New tank from SA ready to go in.
Removed the felt strip glued on top of old tank, going to reuse.

[Craig]

Took a painted piece to my paint store, we matched it up with a color wheel, got an aerosol can mixed up to try out .


Sanded 320 wet and prepped with Eastwood paint prep, then put down a base coat to see how it looked.
Not as nice yet as the picture shows , but I like it, good match and the fully painted inner fenders brighten up the engine bay.

[Craig]

Looking at Carb to eliminate foreign material in float bowl.
Removing float required removing a tiny wire clip (1), in process the clip popped out hit me in the chest and dropped to the floor. I found it ten minutes later stuck in a spiderweb dust at the leg of the workshop table. I thought for sure I would step on it and damage it.
Then I tipped the lower carb section and a 3/16" steel ball (2) rolled out , pretty sure it is out of the accelerator pump column.



Looking at the lower section, there are two items I have questions about.
No1 is the screw in the base plate blocking a hole.
and
No2 is an open hole , not blocked.

[StudeRich]

The double slotted or Phillips Screw sticking out, looks like it is blocking an unwanted, drilled Hole that should NOT be there, maybe it could be better sealed.

If the OTHER Hole, is that tiny one to the Right, that is a excess fuel bleed hole, it's fine.

[Craig]

Found a set of 55 fog lights on eBay, they arrived today.



Disassembled, cleaned, bead blasted, sprayed with Eastwood rattle cad.
Had set of 6 volt fog sealed beams in stock.


Trial fitted the bumper guards and they look great.
Still need wiring and a rubber seal for the bulb/bumper guard fit.



Anyone have info on the rubber seal for the bulbs?

Checking parts book, no gasket is shown so maybe I am mistaken.


Seems there should be a gasket to avoid road water, rain water , road debris, etc. from entering fog light .

[Craig]

Removed the Overdrive relay from the firewall and noticed that something large was rattling inside the case.
Realizing this was not good, I pried open the case to examine and found large contact was off due to failed brass tiny rivets.



Rebuilding the Stromberg WW with new float needle. New needle uses a "pull off wire" to eliminate stuck needle. I had to bend this tiny wire for a closer fit to the float tab to allow it to be functional.