My 64 Commander.

[8E45E]

I'm curious if paint is correct colour for my car. Production order will help with a lot.

Your photos show it to be Laguna Blue metallic, which was used both in 1964 and 1965. Your body color label might still be attached to the underside of your glove compartment. If not, the Production Order will verify.

Craig

[RyleeH]

So to clarify more. I dont know if the body tags are actually correct for the car. Door tag for sure is.

Craig it does seem to be Leguna Blue Metallic like this 64 color chart, I do not have a 65 chart. Nothing stuck anywhere in the blue dash, it's fairly mutilated from extra gauges, aftermarket radio, lights, switches, and speakers.


I bought the car being told it was a 1964 Commander that originally had a ford motor.
I am confident that is false and is a 1965 Commander that had the 6 cylinder.
This car was badly mismatched to keep on the road. Insurance record in my area shows the car registered as this "vin", obviously wrong back in 1997. Apparently car was painted near this year.


Gary, the parts car I had torn apart and saved every good piece to store inside my home and garage was a 1965 Daytona, that's the only Daytona I owned. It was red paint, white vynil top with a black interior, front buckets, 283 and auto.

Certain things about the car just dont jive. I wish I had taken many more pictures when i brought the car home the first time, it would explain a lot more.

[8E45E]

As I stated, Laguna Blue was also listed for 1965:



You have to crawl on your back on the passenger side and look on the underside of the glove compartment for something like this, provided it hasn't fallen off:



Craig

[studegary]

The "Cii8748" on the title document is really C118748, a 1965 six cylinder car. Studebaker used an I for a 1.

[RyleeH]

Cool, thanks Craig. I hadn't seen a 65 chart yet. No tags under the blue dash to help me. The dash was full of ribbed switches, isnt that pre- 1965?

[studegary]

Your picture shows where the color label used to be.

[8E45E]

At least two 'giveaways' to me that confirm your car was built deep into the 1965 model run: the suspended accelerator pedal and your windshield washer reservoir location. Early 1965 models had them next to the battery, and your car originally had a bag on the firewall below the body number. The bolt for the bracket is still in use, holding up a different bracket for a couple of relays, but not the original washer bag bracket.

Craig

[studegary]

At least to 'giveaways' to me that confirm your car was built deep into the 1965 model run: the suspended accelerator pedal and your windshield washer reservoir location. Early 1965 models had them next to the battery, and your car originally had a bag on the firewall below the body number. The bolt for the bracket is still in use, holding up a different bracket for a couple of relays, but not the original washer bag bracket.

Craig

I agree with the "deep into the 1965 model run" part. The Serial Number is a few higher than published ending numbers for 1965 six cylinder cars.

[RyleeH]

That's interesting to know about the accelerator pedal. Had a suspicion those relays that are for my starter and fuel pump hung where the washer fluid bag should be.

It took a few months of ownership before I thought it could a 65, after the first chapter meeting I was convinced of it. But I will wait until I purchase a production order before i change the year on my registration or this thread.

[8E45E]

I agree with the "deep into the 1965 model run" part. The Serial Number is a few higher than published ending numbers for 1965 six cylinder cars.

I suspect the Production Order will show a mid-to-late August, 1965 assembly date. The twelve pre-production 1966 models, which were assembled in June of 1965, have lower 1965 body numbers:



Craig

[RyleeH]

Couple updates here. I've changed from the HEI to the regular coil with small diameter distributor and some new wires to go along. Not long after I noticed the alternator was weak so I went to my usual parts shop and grabbed a chrome 120a alternator. Been a while sitting in the garage mostly fiddling with it to get it where I want it, but today I had a great test drive. I've got so much to learn about tuning stuff yet.

A few weeks ago a few of us in the Saskatchewan Chapter brought our Studes out to Pike Lake Car show, I unfortunately forgot to take pictures. I had a blast hanging out with other members and car show enthusiasts. A member had a NOS hood emblem to sell me at the show as well!

I'm pleased with the way things are right now. Initial timing set at 16°, Total 34° @2500rpm. I get 14.5-15in Hg Vacuum at 680rpm, my alternator kicks on at 800rpm, thermostat for electric fan set at 180°C, 185°C coolant thermostat in housing. My temp gauge rises right up near hot within 10 seconds of starting whether the car is hot or cold, must have a bad sender right now.
Few more tweaks yet.

Rear spring questions,
Where to find bushings for the front mounts of the leaves? 65, 5 leaf pack
What mopar springs are the good replacements?

[junior]

IMO, having the fan set to come on 5 degrees cooler than when the t-stat opens is counter productive...why run the fan when the t-stat is not letting the coolant flow? Try setting the fan to come on about 10 degrees after the t-stat opens. In my car the electric fan rarely kicks in while I'm driving it unless its hotter than 25 C outside or I'm waiting in traffic. I have a 180 stat and set the fan to come on at 190.

I'm pretty sure Stude vendors will have the spring bushings or you could try a local shop. Here in Calgary we're lucky to have Standens in town. Their parts guys are great and one guy is into Packards and really went the distance to help me out. They cross-referenced some bushings for my car and had them in stock. Since they build springs if you give them the specs they will build what you want, and their prices seemed reasonable to me when I dealt with them. I took my old springs to them to have them use as a pattern for making new ones and after explaining what I wanted they simply added a thicker second leaf. I was really concerned that the car would ride too rough and they were positive I would not even notice a difference...they were correct...didn't notice a difference and the car sat the way I wanted it to. They saved me a lot of $. I've also had them make custom U-bolts and both times I did this they did it while I waited.

Keep on Studerbakering, good to have younger folks take an interest in the breed. cheers, junior

[RyleeH]

Alright so update time again.

I was trying to monitor my previous overheating issue, that's why fan thermostat set lower than mechanical. All is good, set higher now. My timing was set too advanced and a was way lean on the carb. That innova timing light has been a huge savior and a great teaching tool.

I changed my temp sender which was a big part of my problem. After another attempt at tuning the car I went to the track and did my best yet, 14.52@98.48mph. I think I can learn to do better and be more consistent yet.

I decided to go out for coffee run in the car last sunday. The clutch linkage decided to break when I got back into the car with my coffee to leave. At least i hadn't even moved the car let alone started it. I walked over to the nearest parts store, bought $45 of tools and took it apart there in the Tim's lot. Walked home(1.25hrs), welded it up, booted back with my Ranger and fixed it. Whole adventure lasted 4.5hrs.


In the mean time I heard a noise on the way back from coffee and turns out i need to do some a-arm bushings. All my drivers are shot. Passengers on the way out. So contacted a supplier up here in Canada to send some over. This weekend i took my front end apart.


I'm very thankful for the local chapter members to help guide me through repairs. Soon for the use of sandblasting equipment and install of new bushings as well.
So right now the car sits without a front end in my garage. Waiting for bushings. I'm attempting to get all polyurethane for studebaker leaf springs in the rear. Everything is ordered and awaiting delivery at this point.

Starting to shop for 15" rims and tires. Hoping to make the next street legal event and determined to make the August 18 car show/chapter meeting.

Oh and if anyone can school me on ride heights according to springs please message me. I just took out springs 526132 from my car, matching 59s, 60s and 64s in 59-64 parts book. I also have 1561665 from parts car matching 64v in parts book. I like the ride height of my current 526132 springs but would like firmer. Advice on new shocks to match springs as well.

[RyleeH]

Another update in order.

I chose to stay with the 6cyl 59-64 springs. Roughly cleaned up the springs and painted, until I get new. Sandlblasted the lower and upper A-arms at local members house. Thank you again George! Ordered all new bushings both sides from Trent Hills Auto and made a second order when I realized I needed spring insulators that weren't generic. Russ was great to deal with on the phone. Ordered 3way adjustable front shocks from Competition Engineering through my usual local Hardcore Performance, direct fit if the ears were 1/4" longer each, but I'll make these work. I'm super happy with how things are going and looking.




Correct me if I'm wrong, 1970 Dodge Dart has same 7/8" shackle bushings upper and lower but 4-1/2" shackle length. I ordered new shackle and bushings from Prothane, should he here in a week or two to get those stude HD leaf springs under it.

Anyways plan to have the car back together this August long weekend. I really wanna put that 14.5 in the dust this year.

[Flashback]

Nice, interesting thread. I enjoy your posts !! HOWEVER, I am getting a crick in my neck. LOL