Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

My 64 Commander.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Topper2011
    replied
    Originally posted by RyleeH View Post

    Look at my comment #61 in the second picture. There is a metal sleeve inside those polyurethane bushings that the bolt goes through.
    Ok, thanks, I see. Just recently ordered some bushings from Prothane. I may need to bring it down to the 7/8" eyelet size from 1", but it can accept the original sleeve and bolt. Glad it worked out well for you.

    Leave a comment:


  • RyleeH
    replied
    Originally posted by Topper2011 View Post
    Hi, in your response to Studerich, you mentioned you left the sleeves out. Aren't they important?
    Guess I'm confused, as I believed the bolt needs the sleeve. The bolt is fixed to the hangers and the sleeve is fixed to the shackles. As the spring compresses and rebounds, the spring would rotate slightly. I think the bolt, being greased, would allow this rotation to occur. Without the sleeve, wouldn't the bolt ride directly on the Prothane bushing causing wear? I ask since I am looking to replace my bushings as well with Prothane bushings. Just trying to do this unhappy job once. Thanks.
    Look at my comment #61 in the second picture. There is a metal sleeve inside those polyurethane bushings that the bolt goes through.

    Leave a comment:


  • Topper2011
    replied
    Originally posted by RyleeH View Post

    Sounds like you mean the inner sleeve of the bushings? Yes all bushings have inner sleeves to prevent the bolts from squashing the bushings.
    Hi, in your response to Studerich, you mentioned you left the sleeves out. Aren't they important?
    Guess I'm confused, as I believed the bolt needs the sleeve. The bolt is fixed to the hangers and the sleeve is fixed to the shackles. As the spring compresses and rebounds, the spring would rotate slightly. I think the bolt, being greased, would allow this rotation to occur. Without the sleeve, wouldn't the bolt ride directly on the Prothane bushing causing wear? I ask since I am looking to replace my bushings as well with Prothane bushings. Just trying to do this unhappy job once. Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • RyleeH
    replied
    Originally posted by Topper2011 View Post

    Will there be excessive wear of the bushing as the suspension moves up and down without the sleeve? Doesn't the sleeve limit the compression fitting of the bolt so it pinches the sleeve and keeps the bushing from squashing too far? I need to do mine while my trunk floor is out and I want to go to Prothane bushings as well. I believe the 4815 kit is the closest to my rear leafs.
    Sounds like you mean the inner sleeve of the bushings? Yes all bushings have inner sleeves to prevent the bolts from squashing the bushings.

    Leave a comment:


  • Topper2011
    replied
    Originally posted by RyleeH View Post
    Sorry StudeRich, didn't see the notification. I don't think I put metal sleeves back into the springs and definitely did not in the frame as they were not needed in the rear. The 7/8" bushings fit snug inside the spring and frame, I have had zero issues with this set up and I was told by a couple local hot rodders they weren't 100% neccesary. The front bushing of the spring I believe I left the old sleeves in place and slid the bushings in, if I remember correct, which makes sense then if I used the 1-3/8" bushings. The Darts had multiple different spec to look at. Hope that helps.

    In the last coupe weeks I've now been working on my fuel system. I was tired of my fuel line resting on a coolant line, my fuel pump and filter being between manifold and radiator, 10 chunks of fuel line, unreliable fuel pressure and the final straw was when my fuel tank spout leaked. I'll admit I've known these issues for awhile but I've had other priorities. All fixed now, even my gas gauge is functioning at the moment but time will tell if it goes empty or not. I relocated my pump the just forward of my rear axle on the passenger side so it pushes more than pulls and added a hard line while reversing my carb fuel line to hide and cool the fuel line under the hood.

    Not sure how to add photos anymore.... keeps telling me invalid file while I'm trying to link a URL that I've added into photo album on this site.
    Will there be excessive wear of the bushing as the suspension moves up and down without the sleeve? Doesn't the sleeve limit the compression fitting of the bolt so it pinches the sleeve and keeps the bushing from squashing too far? I need to do mine while my trunk floor is out and I want to go to Prothane bushings as well. I believe the 4815 kit is the closest to my rear leafs.

    Leave a comment:


  • Topper2011
    replied
    Use the "Upload Attachments" just below on the left. Takes awhile though.

    Leave a comment:


  • RyleeH
    replied
    Sorry StudeRich, didn't see the notification. I don't think I put metal sleeves back into the springs and definitely did not in the frame as they were not needed in the rear. The 7/8" bushings fit snug inside the spring and frame, I have had zero issues with this set up and I was told by a couple local hot rodders they weren't 100% neccesary. The front bushing of the spring I believe I left the old sleeves in place and slid the bushings in, if I remember correct, which makes sense then if I used the 1-3/8" bushings. The Darts had multiple different spec to look at. Hope that helps.

    In the last coupe weeks I've now been working on my fuel system. I was tired of my fuel line resting on a coolant line, my fuel pump and filter being between manifold and radiator, 10 chunks of fuel line, unreliable fuel pressure and the final straw was when my fuel tank spout leaked. I'll admit I've known these issues for awhile but I've had other priorities. All fixed now, even my gas gauge is functioning at the moment but time will tell if it goes empty or not. I relocated my pump the just forward of my rear axle on the passenger side so it pushes more than pulls and added a hard line while reversing my carb fuel line to hide and cool the fuel line under the hood.

    Not sure how to add photos anymore.... keeps telling me invalid file while I'm trying to link a URL that I've added into photo album on this site.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Getting RID of those short lived Rubber and Steel Bushings would be something we ALL need to do, thank you for this Info.


    So Rylee, I see you ARE saying that we can use these '60 to '76 Dodge Dart 41012 Front and Rear (Prothane) Polyurethane Rear Spring Bushing Kits 41012 With Shackles OR 41003 Without Shackles in our Studebakers.

    BUT:
    All we need to know is, what size Metal Sleeves did you use in the Pairs of 7/8" Rear of Springs and Frame Bushings, and HOW do the Front 2 Large Bushings fit?

    Also what about THESE: 2 of Metal Sleeves - 60500 (9/16 X .058 X 3.000 inch) part of the 41012 Kit?
    Were you able to use them?

    Front of Rear Leaf Spring Bushings - Dodge Dart - 41003, 1-3/8 Inch Main Eye. 7/16 Inch Main Eye Bolt. 7/8 Inch Shackle Bushing.
    This 1 3/8" Bushing would fit Early Studebakers 1955 to 1957, but not Late '58-'66 ones, with 1 1/2" front Bushings like yours.

    Studes. are1 1/2 Inch Front of the Springs Bushings.
    I don't see how you Got'er done!

    Leave a comment:


  • RyleeH
    replied
    Been a while since an update....
    Well back in December I finally got around to getting my reverse lights working for the first time since my ownership. Needed some clips to hold the linkage together from the trans to solenoid, soldered the connections back onto the solenoid after I determined it was still a functioning unit, removed the housings from the tail of the car for a good cleaning inside and finally put some new bulbs in place. Wish I had done this long ago.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	fetch?photoid=1832713.jpg
Views:	181
Size:	31.3 KB
ID:	1832731
    But I'm happy winter is over. At a different job now where driving the car to work is a lot more feasible to do on a daily basis, depending on weather of course. Quick oil change and a new pcv valve to start off the season, then rinsed off the exterior dust the other day and took the car for a cruise. Met a stranger driving a lime green challenger in *cough* "Mexico" that night. I think we were both surprised by the super close outcome.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	fetch?photoid=1832712.jpg
Views:	151
Size:	37.8 KB
ID:	1832732























    Ever since seeing the Wagonaire Ambulance long ago I wanted one. I had seen the blue wagonaire model as well but because I had only seen it missing the back glass I always assumed these were repainted ambulances. Not until recently did I realize the blue model was for a cameraman and the ambulance had a removable person on stretcher. I found these awesome toys on Kijiji 2.5hrs from me, I don't usually buy things without being in my hands but didn't hesitate to offer his asking price for the two. Super Pumped to add these to my collection!
    Click image for larger version

Name:	fetch?photoid=1832711.jpg
Views:	155
Size:	37.2 KB
ID:	1832733
    Our Saskatchewan Chapter had it's Christmas meeting back in January and during the gift exchange I was able to snag the Johnny Lightning 1951 Commander model. We were experiencing a good snow storm at the time so very few showed up.

    Despite the worlds current situation I'm not letting that deter me.

    I'm excited for what this summer has to bring. My car is in great running condition to start the season and my schedule is so much more open to actually drive it as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • RyleeH
    replied
    Got into work monday thinking I need time to work on the car and got back from my first appointment to book the rest of the week off. Street legal event tomorrow evening and a car show with the local chapter Aug.18!

    Noxnabaker, my springs install on the factory perches so I'm not tubbing the car. I'm just trying to fill the stock tubs as best I can. I think if I go a bit more negative offset with the 15x9 I can do slightly wider tire and still much taller. Also thank you for the kind words.

    I started removing the old junk rear suspension Saturday night after a couple hours of ripping around with a grin on my face from front end work. So happy with how the front turned out, I'd be okay losing an inch height though. Bolts were rusted into inner bushings and the sawzall came out quickly, I was not friendly. I burnt the rubber out of the 7/8" bushings in the frame, then used a hacksaw to cut a kerf in the outer sleeve so I could hammer and chisel them out. Wow was that tedious.
    Anyways I have all my rear back together now. It feels stiff jumping on the car in garage. Way better than before. All the polyurethane installed with ease. New hardware everywhere.

    So excited for my morning coffee run. Alarm set for 6am as if going to work. My neighbors love the car so I'm not worried about the noise. I constantly get comments about how they like the car or the time they see me putting into it.

    More soon. That's only the first 12hr day.

    Fuel tank sending unit, polish/shine, find a tachometer and get reverse lights working finally making my to-do list.
    Last edited by RyleeH; 08-13-2019, 07:34 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Noxnabaker
    replied
    I've been following this thread since new & I really like the looks of this car, it looks like a Studebaker; fast! & also quite modern, it vould easily been built 1968-72 if you look at other cars from those years as it's so modern looking & all it took was to ad a scoop, some black paint & cruel wheels!
    At least that's what I think, looking at US mucle car ads from that period.
    (But to fit wider wheels meaning inwards I think ruins the style...)
    Last edited by Noxnabaker; 04-28-2020, 11:01 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • studegary
    replied
    Wait for your alignment until you get your final tire sizes and stance.

    Leave a comment:


  • RyleeH
    replied
    Thanks Flashback!

    I just got everything back together on my front end Wednesday night and the first few drives are going well now that I actually have front A-arm bushings. Could use an alignment but I'm getting there. Which brings me to my next project, the rear springs. My polyurethane shackle bushings showed up. I'll need to remove metal sleeves from stude springs to fit them, shouldnt be an issue.

    I'm getting more excited as I get more done and in my head gaining momentum.
    Looking into biggest rear tires I can fit now.

    Leave a comment:


  • Flashback
    replied
    Nice, interesting thread. I enjoy your posts !! HOWEVER, I am getting a crick in my neck. LOL

    Leave a comment:


  • RyleeH
    replied
    Another update in order.

    I chose to stay with the 6cyl 59-64 springs. Roughly cleaned up the springs and painted, until I get new. Sandlblasted the lower and upper A-arms at local members house. Thank you again George! Ordered all new bushings both sides from Trent Hills Auto and made a second order when I realized I needed spring insulators that weren't generic. Russ was great to deal with on the phone. Ordered 3way adjustable front shocks from Competition Engineering through my usual local Hardcore Performance, direct fit if the ears were 1/4" longer each, but I'll make these work. I'm super happy with how things are going and looking.




    Correct me if I'm wrong, 1970 Dodge Dart has same 7/8" shackle bushings upper and lower but 4-1/2" shackle length. I ordered new shackle and bushings from Prothane, should he here in a week or two to get those stude HD leaf springs under it.

    Anyways plan to have the car back together this August long weekend. I really wanna put that 14.5 in the dust this year.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X