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May I please get a little help here with info about a 3/4 ton 1953 Stude Truck?

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  • May I please get a little help here with info about a 3/4 ton 1953 Stude Truck?

    A guy in my area has the subject vehicle that has been stored in a barn since 1960. It's dented, but supposedly has no rust. It has a 6 cyl with a floor stick shift. The mileage is 37K and the engine is froze up. The owner thinks the original engine was made by Ford and I absolutely cannot convince him otherwise. However, I did get the VIN R-156288 from him. Can anybody fill me in on the available engines for that particular vehicle and model year? Can we tell anything from the VIN? It looks decent and the price is $1500. But the dude has had 35 phone calls and believes he can sell it easily. I have to act now to have a chance. Thanks!
    edp/NC
    \'63 Avanti
    \'66 Commander

  • #2
    R 15 is a 1 ton and should have dual rear wheels. The motor is NOT made by Ford unless someone changed it. There are plenty of parts available for that motor and truck. There were 2 different motors for that truck, but bother were flat head straight 6 motors. The floor shift is most likely a 4 speed with a granny first.

    I do not recall the engine sizes at the moment but I can look them up in my manual in a minute. It is the block casting numbers you will need to find out motor size. That number you posted looks to me like an earlier than 53 truck and it is a serial number not a VIN so it does not tell us what the engine would be. The R15 is the model, R5 was 1/2 T and R10 was 3/4T and R15 was the 1 T and the serial number would be the 6288. I will look at some paper work I have from Skip L and Dwain that has the number info....4 digit was a '49 at least on the 1/2 and 3/4 tons. I will check the 1T

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    • #3
      Your wife is gonna kick yo butt.

      Dean.

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      • #4
        Ok I went to my documents and a 2R15 started serial numbers at 001 and the 1950 model year started at R10 10801. So by the documents I have, it says that truck is a 1949 1 ton. It could have had a single rear wheel set up or a dually set up, but the dually was much more common.

        The motor should have been a 170ci motor because the 226ci was only in the 1.5 T 2R16 model....but ALOT of people changed engines back in the day.

        If the guy has a pink slip or some kind of Title that states 1953 that may be accurate, but the reason may be because back in the 50s-60s they often changed the year of the vehicle if there was an engine swap, so if they swapped to a 1953 motor it may have been re-registered as a 1953. It could be registered as the '49 that it is with a little work....I am speaking of California anyway..I did that with my '49
        Last edited by kmac530; 01-21-2012, 10:12 AM. Reason: spelling

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        • #5
          KMAC is correct. If the serial number is R15-6288, it's a 1949 one-ton. Be aware that unless the engine has been replaced (unlikely if it's been sitting since 1960) that is a 45mph truck -- great for hauling heavy loads at slow speed on local roads.
          Skip Lackie

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          • #6
            that is a 45mph truck -- great for hauling heavy loads at slow speed on local roads.
            X2 on that. Just realize what you're getting into. The C-cabs are some of the prettiest trucks ever, so many people buy the the 6-cyl 1-tons without realizing they are also bog slow, ride rough, hot in the summer, the unsynchronized 4-speed transmission is impossible for most beginners to shift, cramped for tall guys.

            Having said all that, I'm the third generation of tall Vines' men who've driven C-cabs since they were new.

            jack vines
            PackardV8

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            • #7
              Here's the link. See what ya think. Thanks! http://www.iwanna.com/Vehicles/Class...assics/3516628
              edp/NC
              \'63 Avanti
              \'66 Commander

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              • #8
                It looks like what we said it was. Take note of what Jack said -- it'll have a T9 4-speed, unsychronized in any gear. It requires double-clutching and/or perfect timing to upshift -- and heaven help you if you have to downshift. That said, the truck would not be difficult to convert to a Stude V8 and OD (or a 5-speed) if you had a V8 parts truck. If it really is rust-free, it's probably worth $1000 parted out.
                Skip Lackie

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                • #9
                  It is in decent looking shape to me. $1500 may be a stretch, especially if there is much registration work to do since that can add up quickly.

                  That is definately a 1 ton single rear wheel. Big 5 lug wheels are 1 ton. The dents look fixable. But that does cost. Parts are readily available, but not super cheap. If this was your dream truck, I would say buy it since it looks like a good starter. If you are thinking of flipping it...pass.

                  Skip,
                  Of course I am correct! I got my info from YOU.
                  You and DwainG, Jack, BobK........I am learning, hard as that is to believe...lol

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                  • #10
                    Good Afternoon:

                    If it is a big truck you need, I have 2 different e 40's for sale in Virginia. Both cost a bit more but are running, driving(not on the road) trucks... Also I think Gary Hearn has a couple located outside richmond for sale

                    Take care

                    george o
                    Last edited by george o; 01-21-2012, 12:13 PM. Reason: spelling error

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                    • #11
                      No flipping for me! I thought it was a pretty decent, no rust, 3/4 ton with 37k miles at a good price. I recently saw a 1/2 ton '50 in much worse condition in Charlotte that the owner wanted $4k. I appreciate all the input and info. Thanks! I'll mark this one off the list and let the guy keep his Stude with the original "FORD'" motor. lol.
                      edp/NC
                      \'63 Avanti
                      \'66 Commander

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                      • #12
                        We clarified that this is a 1 ton not a 3/4 ton. The big 5 lug wheels and the R15 in the serial number= 1 ton. Irrelevant if you are passing on it.

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                        • #13
                          How the heck did you guys manage to see the 5-bolt wheels in those fuzzy, dark photos? I loooked again and still couldn't swear it is a five-lug.

                          I'd actually like to have an R-15 as a starting point. I wouldn't keep any of the engine, trans or rear axle, but the stronger frame and bigger brakes would be nice to have.

                          jack vines
                          PackardV8

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Skip Lackie View Post
                            It looks like what we said it was. Take note of what Jack said -- it'll have a T9 4-speed, unsychronized in any gear. It requires double-clutching and/or perfect timing to upshift -- and heaven help you if you have to downshift. That said, the truck would not be difficult to convert to a Stude V8 and OD (or a 5-speed) if you had a V8 parts truck. If it really is rust-free, it's probably worth $1000 parted out.
                            Down-shifting a non-synchro transmission is no more difficult than up-shifting --- just shift to neutral, release the clutch, rev the engine, then depress the clutch and shift into the next lower gear. It takes a bit of noisy practice, up or down. Try to pinpoint the best speeds to shift --- too bad the trucks didn't have tachometers.

                            Bill
                            Bill Jarvis

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                            • #15
                              Ha HA HA Jack. I can see the studs clearly in the pic of the front end. There are 5, but they are not the standard 5x4.5 or 5x4.75 or 5x5. they are big like 5x8 or something, now I need to check I am curious.

                              Remember, I was trying to find a wheel for my 2rR10. I researched and looked and called and found EVERYTHING BUT my 6 x 7.25 wheels. In the process I learned a little about Stude heavy truck wheels...lol. The 2R10 6 lug has much less back space that the 2R15 big5 and those wheels have the deeper back space.

                              I agree Jack, the heavier frame is a nice start point, but if someone was going to rod it a bit, say like Jon Stahlnakers, the bed is too long and would need some custom sectioning to look really nice.
                              You may also be surprised, if you were keeping the bigger front brakes and thus the big5 bolt pattern, the diff may be decent for most uses. I will check on the gear ratio but they are pretty big and heavy duty and likely pretty low geared.....not drag race low and strong, but plenty street rod low and strong.

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