Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Cost to rebuild a 289

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Cost to rebuild a 289

    My 64 Daytona's 259 engine is tired, needs a valve job and probably more. I have a 289 that came with the car when I bought it a few months ago, and I'm thinking of swapping out the 259 for the 289. I have no idea what the condition of the 289 is and would certainly want to have it rebuilt before swapping.

    Before I go this route, I'd like some idea of a typical cost to rebuilt one of these engines. I realize it will depend on a number of factors, but what would be a reasonable range to consider? This will help determine whether I go ahead with the project.

    Thanks, Rich

  • #2
    Jack Vines (Packard V8) would be the best source to get an idea on cost. He is in Washington state and right at this time he has a 9-12 month waiting list for Studebaker V8's. Jack would do it right but the cost of shipping would be prohibitive.

    My question is will you be driving the car or just shows and Studebaker meets locally? Calculate the use of the car and decide according to your plans

    Best of Luck

    Bob Miles

    Comment


    • #3
      On the east coast there's Diesel Jim up in South Bend, cannot think of his last name at the moment, but he is an excellent Stude engine builder. He has even posted a series of videos on FaceBook of him working in his shop, doing a 289 rebuild.

      The last 289 I rebuilt, about 5 years ago, cost around $2500-$3000 if I recall. I did the disassembly and reassembly, and had a local brand x engine shop do the machining and hot tank.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by rbarvai View Post
        My 64 Daytona's 259 engine is tired, needs a valve job and probably more. I have a 289 that came with the car when I bought it a few months ago, and I'm thinking of swapping out the 259 for the 289. I have no idea what the condition of the 289 is and would certainly want to have it rebuilt before swapping.

        Before I go this route, I'd like some idea of a typical cost to rebuilt one of these engines. I realize it will depend on a number of factors, but what would be a reasonable range to consider? This will help determine whether I go ahead with the project.

        Thanks, Rich
        Rich, it depends. To build a Studebaker V8 long block to the highest standards of machining precision, with all new valves, guides, springs, bearings, pistons, rings; reground cam, lifters, rocker arms, crankshaft and flywheel, resurfaced heads and block, line honed main bores, is $3,500 - $4,000.

        If one just wants a reliable driver at the lowest cost, sometimes it's possible to re-use valves, springs, lifters, cam. Some will even re-use pistons and re-ring a bore with wear, won't resurface the heads or block. Yes, it will run OK. No, we don't do that kind of build; the reason is the labor to R&R the engine is the same.

        Joe Hall said, "The last 289 I rebuilt, about 5 years ago, cost around $2500-$3000 if I recall. I did the disassembly and reassembly, and had a local brand x engine shop do the machining and hot tank." is accurate, if an owner feels competent to do his own labor, but then, Joe's built several engines over the years. Following the Studebaker Shop Manual step-by-step will usually get one through, but it ain't easy or quick.

        Maybe, decide what's affordable for you and ask around.

        jack vines
        Last edited by PackardV8; 05-29-2020, 11:48 AM.
        PackardV8

        Comment


        • #5
          Depending on labor rates in your area, the machine work could run well over $1,000. Studebaker International has a rebuild kit for $1600. If you can do the disassembly and reassembly yourself, the $2,500 to $3,000 range is in the ballpark. If not, you would need to seek quotes on labor costs.

          The last one I did was about $4,500. However I had a lot of extra machine work done.
          78 Avanti RQB 2792
          64 Avanti R1 R5408
          63 Avanti R1 R4551
          63 Avanti R1 R2281
          62 GT Hawk V15949
          56 GH 6032504
          56 GH 6032588
          55 Speedster 7160047
          55 Speedster 7165279

          Comment


          • #6
            Before you can make a decision or receive reliable advice, Questions such as engine mileage, origin and future intent etc should be answered.

            In my limited experience, every engine I have worked on had no more than a 100k on the clock and all did very well with just a simple overhaul.

            I've dealt with perhaps a dozen or so engines during my lifetime but your mileage may vary...

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by GrumpyOne View Post
              Before you can make a decision or receive reliable advice, Questions such as engine mileage, origin and future intent etc should be answered.

              In my limited experience, every engine I have worked on had no more than a 100k on the clock and all did very well with just a simple overhaul.

              I've dealt with perhaps a dozen or so engines during my lifetime but your mileage may vary...
              Agree, there is rebuild, and there is overhaul. To rebuild is to make it new again in every respect; to overhaul is to inspect and repair only as necessary, and there's several things to consider in choosing which route to take. If it's a low mile, non abused motor and inspection determines it's a good candidate, an overhaul may even be preferred under some conditions. For example, in the desert southwest factory spec piston to cylinder clearance takes many more break-in miles to cool down, and three's even damage of piston galling if not careful during break-in. Whereas an overhauled motor can hit the road running without much concern for overheating due to internal tightness. OTOH, overhauling a high mileage, abused motor is a waste of time and $, unless planning to flip the car to some unlucky buyer.

              Comment


              • #8
                Joe makes some very good points. The first thing you need to do is disassemble the 289. Lay it all out and look it over for any damage and wear. Mic everything out, Check cyl.wear and same goes for crank. Now you have a good idea what it needs and which way you can go about it. If everything checks with in specs. all you need is a over haul. If it is totally wore out now it needs a reman. And get out the old check book. It's going to hurt.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by swvalcon View Post
                  Joe makes some very good points. The first thing you need to do is disassemble the 289. Lay it all out and look it over for any damage and wear. Mic everything out, Check cyl.wear and same goes for crank. Now you have a good idea what it needs and which way you can go about it. If everything checks with in specs. all you need is a over haul. If it is totally wore out now it needs a reman. And get out the old check book. It's going to hurt.
                  For true, it all has to be evaluated. Much depends upon how the engine was operated, maintained and ultimately stored. We recently pulled down a 289" with pistons so stuck they had to be broken out of the bores. The crankshaft was perfect.

                  Add to the list of parts to be micrometer checked, valve stems and valve guides, oil pump.

                  jack vines
                  PackardV8

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The quotes are just that until the engine is taken apart. $3200.00 to $3600.00 is general cost. Last name is Maxey.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by DieselJim View Post
                      The quotes are just that until the engine is taken apart. $3200.00 to $3600.00 is general cost. Last name is Maxey.
                      X2, Jim; no one can give a firm quote until the parts are cleaned and checked. Until then, it's just a rough estimate.

                      It's all just time and money; decide how much of each you are prepared to spend. Agree first on the goals and budget; if cheapest good runner with reused parts, better runner with all new parts, best runner with precision machine work.

                      When asking for estimates, it's critical to agree on exactly what is to be done. Does the shop want the complete engine or just the long block? Will the block and heads be pressure washed and shot blasted? New pistons, rings, bearings, valves, springs, guides be installed? Will the heads be surfaced? The block be line honed and square decked? Rocker shafts disassembled and rodded out? Oil pump rebuilt? Front damper rebuilt? Will the rotating assembly be balanced? Cam, lifters, crankshaft, rocker arms and flywheel reground? How long will the shop need to complete the work, worst case? Do they require some or all payment up front? (BTW, too much up front is a red flag.)

                      jack vines
                      PackardV8

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        There's also Dave Thibault in Massachusetts who has a good reputation. He advertises in TW.
                        sigpic"Somewhere West of Newport Center"
                        1956 2E12 O/D SOLD!
                        1959 4E2 4spd, TT
                        1963 8E28 GSA order
                        1963 8E5 SOLD!
                        1963 Lark Daytona Wagonaire 289,O/D, TT

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Since you are in Gettysburg, PA, you might want to try Witmer's in Ephrata, PA. They specialize in Studebaker, have owner Studebakers for years, and are pretty close to you. Photos below are from the front of their place and a motor a friend had rebuilt by them we were picking up.



                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Good advice given by all and remember good cost money better cost more.
                            Candbstudebakers
                            Castro Valley,
                            California


                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Witmer's shop is a shop that I would want to take my car if I had to get repair work done. It is so clean and I don't see lots of used greasy parts lying around. If a shop keeps things clean and organized, I know the built would be great.

                              Bob Miles

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X