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Anybody else think I need a new head gasket for '55 President?

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  • Cool/Heat: Anybody else think I need a new head gasket for '55 President?

    After my car overheated, i drained and changed the coolant as well as taking off some bad hoses. let's figure this out - what dirty looking compound could possibly be floating in the water?... that floating in the water?....Shown is one gallon of antifreeze out of the car after an overheat. A coolant leak down test was very slow but some was evident. This is out of a 1955 President State with a 259 v8. Compression test showed most everything in the 115-140 range. the lowest-115 was #3 where incidentally the hottest temperatures on the manifold shows up:240F vs about 180F for everything else. About the only other real symptom is a miss that starts when car is up to temp.- realize that could be a head valve somewhere- just didn't really show up on compression test. I am also wondering about cylinder head bolts- do I have to rip 'er apart to figure out what bolts I need? Can I reuse the bolts? Any advice in this regard would also be appreciated. thanks
    Search Terms:259 V8, cylinder head , head bolts, compression test, coolant pressure test.Click image for larger version

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Name:	55 prez Prob.jpg
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Size:	74.8 KB
ID:	1753971

  • #2
    Cw If you overheated it you may have blown a head gasket or cracked a head. Head bolts can be reused. If it isn't overheating and only uses some antifreeze you could maybe put some stop leack in it but most times a bandaid fix.

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    • #3
      Unless its a fresh rebuild, I do not see enough contamination in the pix to be concerned about. If there's a miss when warm, try re-torqueing the intake manifold bolts. Also, the carb base bolts. Also, check the plug wire spark on that cylinder, to insure it is blueish yellow.

      I'd need more evidence than a hotter heat gun reading to tear a head off and check for head gasket leak. Not sure how badly you overheated it, but those motors are pretty tough, ad will run with the heat gauge pegged for hours, long as you can keep gasoline flowing fast enough to keep it from boiling, i.e. if towing uphill, with gas pedal to the floor.

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      • #4
        If the gasket is leaking it will show on the spark plugs. Give them a look. BTW, how did they look when you did the compression test? Do it when cold after the engine has run. The condensation and discoloration will show.
        '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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        • #5
          A miss and leak down of coolant makes me lean toward a cracked head.
          Hawkowner

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          • #6
            If you suspect a leaking head gasket, most radiator shops can do a dye check of the cooling system to check for combustion gas in the coolant. If you want to do the test yourself, NAPA has a test kit available that will do the job for you. Your compression numbers in my opinion are too far apart between low and high to give you a smooth running engine. And the other issue is why does it overheat and have you tested the thermostat for correct operation? Bud

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            • #7
              A sure quick check when started up cold it should emit excessive steam, the spark plug(s) should be very clean and the engine should be shaking a little. With a vacuum gauge it should be bouncing.

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              • #8
                One more point there should be a slight scent of antifreeze at the exhaust.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by wittsend View Post
                  If the gasket is leaking it will show on the spark plugs. Give them a look. BTW, how did they look when you did the compression test? Do it when cold after the engine has run. The condensation and discoloration will show.
                  Thanks all for the responses.
                  The plugs looked as if the engine is running rich. I didn't see a bit of discoloration that I could blame on antifreeze.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
                    Unless its a fresh rebuild, I do not see enough contamination in the pix to be concerned about. If there's a miss when warm, try re-torqueing the intake manifold bolts. Also, the carb base bolts. Also, check the plug wire spark on that cylinder, to insure it is blueish yellow.

                    I'd need more evidence than a hotter heat gun reading to tear a head off and check for head gasket leak. Not sure how badly you overheated it, but those motors are pretty tough, ad will run with the heat gauge pegged for hours, long as you can keep gasoline flowing fast enough to keep it from boiling, i.e. if towing uphill, with gas pedal to the floor.
                    I agree with you about the temperature. Those are sort of variable anyway. The overheating came, i think, because of a bad hose going into the defroster coil. I always run with the heat on- I might be overthinking this whole deal...

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by altair View Post
                      One more point there should be a slight scent of antifreeze at the exhaust.
                      thanks altair- I'll check it out the next time I go out.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Bud View Post
                        If you suspect a leaking head gasket, most radiator shops can do a dye check of the cooling system to check for combustion gas in the coolant. If you want to do the test yourself, NAPA has a test kit available that will do the job for you. Your compression numbers in my opinion are too far apart between low and high to give you a smooth running engine. And the other issue is why does it overheat and have you tested the thermostat for correct operation? Bud

                        Thanks Bud-
                        I tested thermostat first thing. I might give the NAPA test a look. I checked on it with a local auto repair place and he said they get a lot of false negatives with that test(??). I think the initial overheating occurred because of a bad hose and maybe a bad cap. Does everyone run a 7# cap? The recommended pressure for mine (from the manual) is 14#. When I bought it though, it had a 7#er with a recored radiator.
                        As far as the compression #s- I've got a new set of heads and I could install those, along with the gaskets. Could be a sticking valve in the head. But I will run the dye test first and try a little more to determine what is going on.

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                        • #13
                          My parts manual, (1955-58), shows three radiator caps at 7lbs and 13 lbs. 7lbs is for the upper radiator tank that is round and bulbous while the other two are ribbed...

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                          • #14
                            If you don't know when the water pump was last replaced, look at the service letter
                            here http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/...wpc1/wpc1.html
                            Many years ago there was a run of pumps not assembled correctly. Caused grief for people till they were replaced or the impeller was repositioned
                            on the shaft.
                            You might want to do a search on cleaning the rust, casting sand and general crud buildup from the block water passages.
                            South Lompoc Studebaker

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 55 56 PREZ 4D View Post
                              If you don't know when the water pump was last replaced, look at the service letter
                              here http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/...wpc1/wpc1.html
                              Many years ago there was a run of pumps not assembled correctly. Caused grief for people till they were replaced or the impeller was repositioned
                              on the shaft.
                              You might want to do a search on cleaning the rust, casting sand and general crud buildup from the block water passages.
                              Thanks PrezI did clean out one side as it looked like antifreeze was coming out of one of the plugs. Turned out that was right below a bad coolant hose.

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