Cool/Heat: 1960 Lark V8 Radiator question

[1oldtimer]

Ok, I've read the posts about changing to the jeep aluminum radiator and had some questions I didn't want to post on that thread. 1st question is do these (V8 259) like to run warm/hot and the new style radiator is the way to keep it normal temp (I know ford FE motors run hot). 2nd question is, since some people are changing theirs out does anyone local to So Cal (closer to Orange County the better) have one they want to sell, needs to have good tanks and framing (core leaking or damaged is ok). I'm looking on the swap page but they're way out of state. Needs to be for a '59-'60 Lark V8, I don't want to alter the car or the nice original radiator in the car now.

Thanks.

[Skybolt]

If you are just looking for frame, top and bottom tanks with the idea to replace the core then some OHV six radiators will work. They use the same size inlet and outlet and in the same location. Going through the parts book there are some with OHV and V8 applications. I guess the core thickness is different for most of the part numbers. I have an OHV six radiator that has a better core, a newer replacement core, than the original 59 V8.

If, as you mentioned, "you have a nice radiator in the car now", then what are your plans for the other one you are after?

Len

[1oldtimer]

[sals54]

I have a V8 radiator for that application. I'm in Sacramento. Feel like a road trip?

[Bud]

Have you checked the actual temperature of the engine with a known good thermometer in the coolant or an infrared thermometer aimed at different spots on the engine? I never trust the electric gauges to be completely accurate. Studebaker V8 engines that have clean water passages in the block, a clean radiator, no internal leaks such as cracks or leaking gaskets and a good thermostat do not run hot. I use 180 degree thermostats in my Studebakers with no heating problems. I had a 64 Champ truck with a 289 that always ran with the water temperature gauge at 3/4 and an old girlfriend of mine had a 63 Lark with a 259 and it ran at 3/4 too. My 62 Hawk and 63 Avanti have water temperature gauges that are numbered and 3/4 on the gauges is the 180 degree mark. Bud

[1oldtimer]

Thanks Sals54 but Sacramento is little far.

Bud, the reading I posted are from a infrared thermometer and the cooling passages are a little suspect. When I replaced the old freeze plugs (and some soft plugs) it looked like mud soup, I cleaned out as much as I could by hand and pick....really would have liked to flush it out but it was on a friends rack inside his shop. I did run a hose in the t-stat housing with the lower hose off until it ran out clear AFTER the plugs were back in. I'll try the meat thermometer in the radiator and maybe an old Stewart Warner mechanical gauge....if there's a port for it.

[Bud]

There is one more thing to check and that is the condition of the distributor. If the vacuum advance diaphragm is ruptured or the centrifugal advance is sticking, the shaft bushings are worn or the point dwell has increased beyond spec, the timing will not be correct, usually retarded which will cause the engine to run warm especially at high speed. Bud

[Tiggum]

Please forgive a minor hijack for this thread, but the issue is related. I am preparing for a replacement of all hoses, thermostat and water pump in my 1960 Lark Deluxe 2 door sedan, but previous posts made me aware of the distinct possibility of accumulated crud in the lower block behind the freeze plugs. My question is can the freeze plugs be removed and replaced with the engine in the car? As far as I can tell, this car is 100% stock, with a 259 V-8, Flightomatic and no power accessories. My concern is getting in there and then not being able to replace the plugs.

Thanks,
Tom Martin in Brentwood (Nashville) TN

[1oldtimer]

I just did a tune up (plugs, wires, adjust dwell), reset the timing to stock (was pinging @ 18btc), advance is working and I didn't check the vacuum advance though.

Tiggum, I did mine in the car, pulled the starter out and the control arms were off but I think you can get by with the suspension in place. I also was using a lift, which makes is easier. One thing is that it uses the disc freeze plugs that bottom out on a lip of the block, a lot of the lip was gone on mine. I used extra hardening silicone around the edge of the plug and then a layer around the outside after it was in place. One weeped slightly, so I added extra regular silicone to the top of the other.

[T.J lavallee]

Because the 259 in your Larks are sitting at an angle the "low" or back side of your block is where lots of crud settles. There are two bolt plugs at the back sides of the block that also need to be removed in order to completely flush the cooling passages. This is explained in the workshop manual and was part of the yearly cooling system service that was recommended by Studebaker. Be sure not to overlook them.

[jackb]

you state what clearly describes a clogged lower block. Any alternative attempts to cool the engine down from where you are now will be a waste of time and money. I personally wouldn't mind 3/4 readings on highway driving, but remember those back cylinders will be a lot hotter and "may" suffer pre-mature ill effects.

[TWChamp]

you state what clearly describes a clogged lower block. Any alternative attempts to cool the engine down from where you are now will be a waste of time and money. I personally wouldn't mind 3/4 readings on highway driving, but remember those back cylinders will be a lot hotter and "may" suffer pre-mature ill effects.

I couldn't agree more. I just went through lots of preignition and overheating, and rust blocking my radiator tubes. This was in a low compression Model A, but would apply to any make of car. The junk collects in the lowest part of the cooling chambers and causes problems. I'd remove the welch plugs and clean the block's cooling system with air and water.

[1oldtimer]

I cleaned out behind the freeze plugs as much as I could, but I didn't take out and clean the drains. Anyone know what size pipe plug it is, I'm going to try this weekend and going to make a flushing tool.

Looks like it might be 3/8".

[doug]

I think I found the back bumper and panel you were looking for. PM me again please.

[1oldtimer]

Both came out easy but as noted above were totally blocked. After cleaning, flushing, cleaning, flushing and some air, it looks clean inside the holes. I ran water with some super cooling system cleaner and ran 1/4 up on the temp gauge tonight (with re corded radiator and no t-stat). Going to flush it out a few more times and if everything looks good then back goes the t-stat and coolant.

Thanks everyone for their help.