Engine: Sigh... Machinist got all the "right side" connecting rods BACKWARDS; did I bend them??

[bsrosell]

If you've read recent posts, you know I'm putting together my '57 GH 289 V8, which I had machined (boring, crank, rods) done at a recommended "had done Studebakers before" place. He farmed out the machining, and am guessing did NOT "farm out" the shop manual I loaned him!!

After hours of work today putting rings, etc.. and finally inserting all the pistons, as I did a final check to make sure everything was 'correct", discovered that all the right side rods had been assembled backwards.... (yes, I have all the piston arrows pointing forward.)
( I HAD done so on the bench, but with out that "slit" in the pistons like the old ones referenced in the shop manual, I got them turned around in my head too, thought they were right).

So, looking at shop manual, where you can see the stamped numbers on each rod, I noticed this. Then, looking at the piston pin, confirmed as they were all way to one side, not centered.

I pulled all the caps off and loosened them up, and sealed it up for the night (week?)... But wondering if being backwards is enough to bend the rods? I had tightened this side only with wrench (not torqued), but tight enough... I don't know how easy Stude rods bend. Big problem for Model A Fords, but have no idea with Stude design, nor do I have a way to check.
What do you think? Hassle with sending them back to the guy to rotate them in the pistons, and check the straightness? This has become a real pain; no ONE person to blame, as the guy I took it too sent block, cam and crank to three different 'speciality' shops he works with. So only he had the manual. (I didn't know this was how it was going to go, or I'd have never brought it there.) Too late; what to do now?

Thanks. 1:30am and pretty disgusted!
Barry

[kwoodyh]

The rods are forged so I doubt if they are bent. You could still have them checked for your piece of mind.

[11SecAvanti]

Don't believe you have bent the rods. On install the rod has forced the piston pin over to one side. Can't leave it there, could strike the cylinder wall. Remove all the rods and reverse or flip them around on the pistons. New pistons should have a notch or arrow showing install directions. Keep the marks toward the front of the block. And keep the rod numbering where each rod stamped number is visible when installed and view from the bottom of the crank/block.

[SN-60]

VERY scary story!

[bsrosell]

Don't believe you have bent the rods. On install the rod has forced the piston pin over to one side. Can't leave it there, could strike the cylinder wall. Remove all the rods and reverse or flip them around on the pistons. New pistons should have a notch or arrow showing install directions. Keep the marks toward the front of the block. And keep the rod numbering where each rod stamped number is visible when installed and view from the bottom of the crank/block.

Thanks; I think I'll bite the bullet and do it myself then. I did NOT put in the piston pin; is that torque value critical on the screw up there? I don't have a screwdriver tip for my torque wrench, assume "snug it up good" like most people get by with for EVERYTHING......??
Oh, yes, my pistons have an arrow on the dome for front of engine; What bugs me almost as much as paying for a screw-up, is that I "double-checked" his work just to make sure..... (his camshaft bearings were the ones I had to dress down on one to get my cam in..... in fairness he didn't HAVE the cam to check fit, that's the 'primary contact's fault...). I had the pistons all lined up in order, checked the oil hole location and other reference points and where the number was stamped per a Stude overhaul manual I have, and thought I (he?) had them right, before I even put the rings on. With the hypereutectic pistons, I don't have the 'slit" to reference, and that is where I must have out-thought myself and screwed up, perhaps just like him.

Unfortunately, I did NOT "hold them" in the position shown in the manual as if they were installed, or I would have seen that the numbers really WERE on the opposite side; easy to 'picture' it wrong holding it and reading a manual, especially when just double-checking a professional's work. I'm the newbie, he must have done it right.... ha.

Thanks, on the ADP bolts, once everything is installed (vs holding the piston in my hand), much easier to tap the bolts backwards so the caps are past the knurling. I WILL be checking the gap on these now. Already taken the caps off once, know I can again.

[StudeRich]

Thanks; I think I'll bite the bullet and do it myself then. I did NOT put in the piston pin; is that torque value critical on the screw up there? I don't have a screwdriver tip for my torque wrench, assume "snug it up good" like most people get by with for EVERYTHING......??/Cut/

OK, there is something here in post #5 that bothers me. You DO NOT tighten the Wrist Pin Lock Bolts with a screwdriver!

Once the Flat on the Lock Bolts are seated into the Wrist Pin flat spots they will not move and the outside Star Lockwasher and Nut can be installed on the other side and tightened with a Socket, Extension and Racket or Torque Wrench.

You DO HAVE the special 529348 Studebaker Wrist Pin Lock Bolts right?

The Nut is used on the opposite side of the taper to pull the Lock Bolt out of the Rod when removing Pistons from Rods.

[bsrosell]

I think ( since not area of focus at the time) that I must have seen some other screw head; these looked correct, pretty sure star washer, etc. leaving town again, next weekend time to study the Stude shop manual for THAT part of the Pistons. I'm wearing it out ( an original copy...). Should be able to figure it out, recall good photos.