Engine: Engine Swap

[stude777]

I'm thinking of swapping out my stude V8 in my newly aquired commander. Does anyone have any ideas or opinions on this ? Any ideas or thoughts would be great. I don't want to do anything that I may regret. Just looking for something dependable and fun to drive around.

[sals54]

Commander What? There a lot of Commanders. What year make and model? But beyond that, the Stude V8 is easily your cheapest method of making the car economical to drive. They are very good engines, and the 259 is a great performer, even in todays traffic. Now, that being said, if you're adamant about changing it, the latest and most common swap it the LS Chevy engine family. A 5.3 L engine with automatic can be swapped into the car with some effort, but with it comes a 300-400 HP light weight engine with very exciting performance characteristics. Of course, the fuel system needs upgrades, the brakes need upgrading, and the electrical system needs to be revamped to accommodate the systems. So, a real commitment of time and money is needed to make it happen. So, back to the Stude V8... its still a viable option for power and reliability at a very modest cost to upgrade. Your car... your rules.

[Xcalibur]

OMG, could you ask a question to stir more of a hornet's nest!

I'll simply say, that any engine/drive-train you opt for--Studebaker or Brand-X--can be done to meet your needs. Both have been done innumerable times before and neither is "right" for everyone under all circumstances, no matter what you might hear. As for possible later regrets, who can prognosticate... if so, the PowerBall wouldn't be at its current $1.5B!!!

And, all the best no matter how you opt going with it!!!

[stude777]

Sorry the commander is a 54 HT V8 automatic.

[64studeavanti]

Obviously, the easiest would be to get a larger Stude V8. The next easiest would be SBC as there are motor mounts etc available since Stude installed them in 65 and 66. But any swap can be done given enough time and money. As others have said, it is your car. You probably need to decide what you intend to do with it. Basically, if it is to be a collector car, you should probably keep it stock. Otherwise, it probably does not matter. There does seem to be an upside to well thought out and built resto-mods, so this is a valid way to go.

[Dan White]

Yes it is a source of controversy! The '54 HT V8 is one of my favorite Studes, with some changes to the frame to make it a bit more sturdy than the '53. If it runs and you are not racing or rodding it, and is in good condition leave the 232 (assuming the original engine) and enjoy the uniqueness of the car. If you got to have more power as Sal says bump up to a 259 or 289 w/ 4bbl carb, each will drop right in. Don't let anyone tell you that you need to put in modern brand X engine to make it more reliable... blah blah, blah... the Stude V8 will suite your needs if you are just cruising or even long range driving. Save your money, time and frustration.

You also may want to read this article by our own Bob Palma about the Studebaker V8:

http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/stories/2015/03/01/hmn_opinion4.html

[sals54]

Sorry the commander is a 54 HT V8 automatic.

Ahhh.. Beautiful car. As you can see, I'm quite taken with the body style. I've owned several of that model through the years. But again, it goes to the nature of the beast. Is it a very nice original car that just needs more power? Or is it a project that needs everything? And what is your ultimate goal at the end of the build? All of these questions, only you can answer.
But if you want an economical but fun dependable driver, you may want to consider upgrading the Stude V8 to a 259 or 289. They are plentiful in your area in running condition and the engine/trans would be a "bolt in" operation and put your car on the road in very short order while you decide on a long term solution to your future desires. I personally don't like having any car off the road for too long a period of time because too many things can and often do go wrong while the build is in progress. There again, I'm just offering my opinion on my personal experience. But I have to tell you, I'm very eagerly awaiting some pictures. Let's see what this project looks like. I'm dyin to know. And good luck.

[sweetolbob]

What's your skill level? Have you done a swap before, can you weld, does your shop allow you to fabricate parts to change power plants? There's a lot of fabrication work involved in a swap no matter which engine you choose. You either need to do the work or purchase same. That's a lot more important than what to put in it. Let us know your skill level, that will help.

Bob

[RadioRoy]

Welcome to the forum.

The first thing most new members want to do is redesign the car to make it better. That's OK if one is an experienced hot rod builder, but most newbies who are unfamiliar with Studebakers are not experienced hot rod builders.

For some reason the prevailing "wisdom" is that every other brand of car makes better parts and also every other part will fit. Where did that come from? Maybe because Studebaker has always been an underdog in the eyes of the great unwashed masses.

Basically, Studebakers are well designed and they merely need to be brought back to specifications to be good handling, driving, reliable cars. There are certain tried and proven mods, like disk brakes and sway bars that actually do improve the car, but many one-off, shade tree mods only make the car different, difficult to fix, and difficult to sell.

Here's my best advice, for what it's worth.
-Don't rush into taking it apart
-figure out what you have, what its strong points and weak points are and go from there
-get it stopping and running and then figure out what needs to be done to it while you are enjoying it
-Don't rush into taking it apart. It is at least 100 times more difficult to put it together than it was to take it apart.

Many, many cars get taken apart by someone who is fresh into the hobby, full of enthusiasm, and yielding to popular "wisdom." But the majority of cars that get this treatment never go back together again. They sit around in pieces after the enthusiasm gets replaced by reality. The wife and family get disgusted with the pile of rusty iron sitting around, the car gets sold as a parts car, and another potentially nice old car bites the dust.

I have given this advice many, many times over many years. I know of what I speak. Feel free to ignore it as many have.

[SN-60]

In the 'good old days', when nice running boneyard motors could be bought for $100 or less, Cadillac & Oldsmobile V8's were very popular swaps into '53-'54 Studebaker coupes & hardtops.

But the Chevy small block was always the 'engine of choice'.

Hey, it just so happens I know a guy with a rebuilt Chevy small block '400' sitting in his cellar that's looking for a new home!!

[rockne10]

With the capabilities of Studebaker V8 engines, the only logical reason I could see for swapping to a SBC would be the ability to get replacement parts off the shelf at any FLAPS or GM dealer.

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

If one thinks that the need to get replacement parts is a prevailing issue, then maybe they just need to buy a Chevrolet or whatever and not concern themselves with a Studebaker at all. (Although we all know there is a very good support group supplying Studebaker parts, so it really is not much of a problem.)

[RadioRoy]

The various Studebaker vendors have everything you could want to get the car running and driving like new. Chrome and trim parts are harder to find, but the level of parts support for the Studebaker is much better than it would be for a 54 Chev, Pontiac, Ford, or Dodge for example.

There are also reprints of excellent parts books that show almost every part, where it goes, what it is properly called and its part number. Every parts dealer can respond to the part number, so you can buy the correct parts the first time.

[Alan]

Some people just know how to stir the pot.
777, I have put 11 different engines in my 53K since 62 or so. Most of those swaps were of 50's and 60's engines. The newest being a 4.3L Chev. V6. Forget the early Olds, they were heaver and as gutless as the Stude. I always went back to the Stude, but now a days it costs too much to bolt newer parts up to the old Stude block. If you want to go fast and handle like a new car, you are going to have to throw some money at it.

[swvalcon]

All depends on how you plan to drive the car and what kind of power you feel you need to get it down the road. If it's to go to the local car show one or two nights a week and run 65-70 down the road the stude will do that just fine. Now if it's to blow the doors off a new Hell Cat it's going to need some help.