How much oil do you put in the air/oil bath ? First time changing the motor oil and I want to do that also. What oil do I use in the engine 30W?
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OOPS! The information in Post #2 is incorrect; the oil should not touch the wire mesh or it will be sucked into the engine.
However, 'most every oil bath air cleaner has a FILL line to tell you how much to put in it, so just go by that.
Here's a diagram to illustrate how an oil bath air cleaner works; the principle is a good one but a bit difficult to understand.
The theory is this (and it works): Dirt particles, being heavier than air, are what forces them to "keep going down," being thrust straight ahead into the oil bath where they are trapped, when they need to (but can't) make that sharp bend on top of the oil pool to go back up and enter the carburetor:
As you see, if oil is touching any wire mesh (not shown in the drawing but present at the bottom of the air duct going back up to the carburetor), oil will be sucked up into the engine, making a terrible mess of blue smoke and oil-fouled spark plugs, until the level is low enough that it starts to function as an oil bath air cleaner is supposed to.BP
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For years, I was a stickler for "original," and kept my oil bath filters and early dry element filters as they came from the factory. Later, realizing that modern dry filter media has become superior in filter capability, I have replaced all my original dry filter mesh with modern dry filter elements. The only oil bath filter I have retained is the one on my '51 Land Cruiser. Since I don't have problems with vapor lock on that car (so far) I will stay with the oil bath for now.
This past year, I located one of those small "pancake" factory dry element filters like the one that came from the factory on my six cylinder '55 truck. I used it to replace the bulky oil bath on my '48 business coupe. The reason being, that the oil bath filters are bulkier, retain heat, and (in my opinion) can contribute to heat related vapor lock and gas boiling out of the carburetor bowl vent. The dry element filter is about one third size of the oil bath, is lighter, and has no heat retaining hot oil. It allows better air circulation while the car is underway, and cools much quicker when you reach your destination and shut the engine off.
This is my opinion. I have not done any scientific tests to confirm, but it works for me.John Clary
Greer, SC
SDC member since 1975
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Originally posted by colt45sa View PostIs there a way to 'jerry-rig' a a paper element in place of the oil bath element on a stock '55 4-bbl air cleaner???John Clary
Greer, SC
SDC member since 1975
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OK, here you go. What is pictured here is two Studebaker factory offered dry element air filters. The one sitting atop the carburetor is from a six cylinder truck engine. The one on the cigar box to the right is the original that left the factory on this business coupe in 1948. I'm not certain when Studebaker began offering what I call the "pancake" filter on the left, but there is one on my original 1955 E-5 six cylinder pickup.
Like older oil bath filters, the early dry element filter is also heavy and bulky. Even though the actual filter element surface area is not all that large, it is my understanding that the large baffled air chamber in the early filters served as a "silencer" to reduce intake suction noise . As I stated earlier, it is my opinion that the larger metal mass of those bulky air filters, retain heat, impede engine bay airflow, and probably contribute to gas boiling, and vapor lock problems. For modern replacement filter elements, I take my filter into the parts store, go to the lawn mower/tractor section, and match up the filter body with one that fits.John Clary
Greer, SC
SDC member since 1975
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Originally posted by jclary View Post[ATTACH=CONFIG]50356[/ATTACH]OK, here you go. What is pictured here is two Studebaker factory offered dry element air filters. The one sitting atop the carburetor is from a six cylinder truck engine. The one on the cigar box to the right is the original that left the factory on this business coupe in 1948. I'm not certain when Studebaker began offering what I call the "pancake" filter on the left, but there is one on my original 1955 E-5 six cylinder pickup.
Like older oil bath filters, the early dry element filter is also heavy and bulky. Even though the actual filter element surface area is not all that large, it is my understanding that the large baffled air chamber in the early filters served as a "silencer" to reduce intake suction noise . As I stated earlier, it is my opinion that the larger metal mass of those bulky air filters, retain heat, impede engine bay airflow, and probably contribute to gas boiling, and vapor lock problems. For modern replacement filter elements, I take my filter into the parts store, go to the lawn mower/tractor section, and match up the filter body with one that fits.
(If we don't, they may not be there someday!)
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I don't recall you mentioning what car you have the filter issue with. But, for the coupes and cars without much under hood clearance, the side draft carburetors used a different type of "off-set" dry air filter. Perhaps someone will post a pic of one of those. It too, is somewhat bulky, but I like the looks of them. They extend out from the carburetor with a long can (air chamber) with a dry element similar to the pancake filter on the end. I think the same size filter element would work in them. I have one in my stash of parts, but you would not believe what all I would have to crawl over to get to it. Anyway, with a bit of patience, searching ebay, attending swap meets, you should be able to locate one without having to modify your existing oil bath filter. Good luck.John Clary
Greer, SC
SDC member since 1975
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Originally posted by John McElfresh View PostHow much oil do you put in the air/oil bath ? First time changing the motor oil and I want to do that also. What oil do I use in the engine 30W?Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
'64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine
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Originally posted by jclary View PostI don't recall you mentioning what car you have the filter issue with. But, for the coupes and cars without much under hood clearance, the side draft carburetors used a different type of "off-set" dry air filter. Perhaps someone will post a pic of one of those...Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
'64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine
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That's the filter I was thinking of Paul. Looks like it is about the same diameter as the others, but I had forgotten how much taller (or wider depending on orientation) the element is. Pretty cool in appearance compared to the upright filters of the day.John Clary
Greer, SC
SDC member since 1975
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