Engine: Lubrication... Motor Oil for a Daily Driver in 2015?

[GrumpyOne]

I know that this subject has been tossed around in the past but with regulations and formulations changing quicker than the rising/ebbing of tides, what are the current suggestions as to brands/specifications? I plan on having a "weekly" driver, (sometimes more often), on the road within the next twelve months or so.... 1955 Studebaker President State Sedan with a newer, (259 out of a Regal '59 Lark) with Flight-O-Matic or the original engine with the DG-250 tranny.

Any thoughts?

[JoeHall]

What are you located, climate wise?

[Mike Van Veghten]

And to reiterate... I've been using Castrol, 20-50 GTX in my "daily driver" 259 powered Lark for many years now. Funny thing though, despite all the naysayers that say it can't be done...I've had zero problems with the original cam and the original liftrs.
At one time I was adding Lucas oil modifier to the oil changes. I stopped this about two years ago, with no detrimental affect.

This car goes to the grocery store, it goes to the fast food places and waits in the lines like everyone else, etc., etc. It goes on longer trips, almost 450 mile round trip once or twice a year.

I do try to change the oil about every 3500/4000 miles because it's a partial flow engine with no filter. If it were a full flow engine, I'd go a few more miles before changing the oil.
Don't know where you live, but you're welcome to stop by to verify this IS a daily driver that sits in my driveway just waiting to be driven most every day. My "only" car that will get driven daily. My 54 Conestoga also has the Castrol in it, but it's not a daily driver..

Mike

[StudeRich]

If it gets colder than the 50 degrees where Mike lives, you may want to consider 10W-30 Name Brand Oil; Valvoline, Castrol, or Quaker State.

If you want to play it safe to prevent Lifter and Camshaft wear, Red Line and ZDDPlus are both good ZDDP additives, there are also Oils like Valvoline Racing ZR1 (Silver Bottle) that contain enough ZDDP and more "Special" Collector Car Oils.

The proper level of ZDDP has only been missing from regular off the shelf Oil since Nov. 2007, so some of us may not know the result for a few more years depending on annual mileage, which is not much on many "Collector Cars".

We have been round and round about this SO much that it is best left said that it is YOUR choice, not those that "Believe" or those who don't.

[GrumpyOne]

What are you located, climate wise?

Austin, TX.

I'm not worried about temperatures but am concerned about formulation additive-wise.

[GrumpyOne]

And to reiterate... I've been using Castrol, 20-50 GTX in my "daily driver" 259 powered Lark for many years now. Funny thing though, despite all the naysayers that say it can't be done...I've had zero problems with the original cam and the original liftrs.
At one time I was adding Lucas oil modifier to the oil changes. I stopped this about two years ago, with no detrimental affect.

This car goes to the grocery store, it goes to the fast food places and waits in the lines like everyone else, etc., etc. It goes on longer trips, almost 450 mile round trip once or twice a year.

I do try to change the oil about every 3500/4000 miles because it's a partial flow engine with no filter. If it were a full flow engine, I'd go a few more miles before changing the oil.
Don't know where you live, but you're welcome to stop by to verify this IS a daily driver that sits in my driveway just waiting to be driven most every day. My "only" car that will get driven daily. My 54 Conestoga also has the Castrol in it, but it's not a daily driver..

Mike

I think that you've probably answered my question in that I've used exactly the same oil in daily drivers up to about five years ago when I sold my '64 T-Cab. Thank You..

[GrumpyOne]

If it gets colder than the 50 degrees where Mike lives, you may want to consider 10W-30 Name Brand Oil; Valvoline, Castrol, or Quaker State.

If you want to play it safe to prevent Lifter and Camshaft wear, Red Line and ZDDPlus are both good ZDDP additives, there are also Oils like Valvoline Racing ZR1 (Silver Bottle) that contain enough ZDDP and more "Special" Collector Car Oils.

The proper level of ZDDP has only been missing from regular off the shelf Oil since Nov. 2007, so some of us may not know the result for a few more years depending on annual mileage, which is not much on many "Collector Cars".

We have been round and round about this SO much that it is best left said that it is YOUR choice, not those that "Believe" or those who don't.

I've tended to use 20-50 year around as all of my engines have mileage on them. I think that my concerns have been addressed and thank all of you for your experience and advice.

[JoeHall]

I usually break them in with generic 10W30 for a couple of thousand miles, then switch to Mobil 1, 15W50. Up until around 1997, I used 20W50 Castrol, till the switch to Mobil 1. Same oil in Kentucky as in the California desert.
With the current rebuild on the 352 in the 56J, when completed, I plan to break it in with Rotella 15W40. I also gave in to the DZZP, "cheap insurance" idea about six months ago in all Studes, after resisting it for decades. But I am kinda skeptical about the label on the bottle, and not 100% sure what the stuff actually is. I also plan to go from 10,000 mile oil changes to 5000, as an added margin of safety. I ain't getting any younger, and rebuilds are becoming more and more of a PITA

[Bud]

I've used Chevron Delo 400 or Mobil Delvac 1300 15W-40 in my Studebakers and the other older cars that I've serviced for more than 30 years with good results. Those oils have plenty of zinc to protect flat tappet cams and is great at keeping the inside of the engine clean. Studebaker originally recommended an SAE 30 oil for summer and either 10 or 20W for winter. If you live in a colder climate, I would recommend a good 10W-30 oil for your car. Bud

[oilnsteel]

Joe,

Hopefully you have had no problems with the generic oils during breakin, but the first thirty minutes of operation is critical to the long life of your cam and lifters, and I'd sure want to have a high ZDDP oil in there then.

Jim

[StudebakerGene]

Restore

Okay I know I'm going to get whacked around a bit but it's O.K., I use to be a non believer myself before I actually tried this stuff. Engine restore works for me. I personally drove Willie Nelson's tour bus for a few years. We had 2 generators on board (always one for back-up.) One of the generators began smoking terribly, I had called the shop to get a brand new one ready and decided to really check the older motor out. I changed the oil and filter, (didn't look that bad) checked the compression and found that 2 out of the 4 cylinders were 40 lbs. low. I added a can of restore and ran the generator about 200 hours and I could tell after a few days that the smoking had subsided quite a bit. Changed the oil again, added restore and it never smoked again. I ran a compression check again after the third oil change and couldn't believe it. Those generators are still running today. I don't think it has any zinc properties,(contents are top secret.) I use it in everything that has mileage on it, lawnmowers, tractors. If you have a high mileage engine, give it a try, I think you will be pleasantly surprised how much better the engine will run, also better gas mileage.

[StudeRich]

That's OK Gene, I think you will live to see anther Day! Since this is an entirely different subject, additive in Oil in worn Engines not good ones or fresh ones.

If those Generators have Valves and flat tappet Lifters, (4 Stroke) it would be a good idea to also use an Oil with enough ZDDP or ZDDPlus.

[Flashback]

No "In the past", or "used to", for oil selection. You asked for now right? Valvoline VR-1 racing oil, 10W30 for me.

[StudebakerGene]

Rich,I guess the correlation I was trying to relay was, most of the oils back in the day had the zinc formula and as we all know, Studebaker was a keen to have you throw a little "STP" in your Studebaker as well. I tried to use that stuff back in the sixty's and It never did anything for my cars. If you have a "wore out" motor, there's not much out there that is going to help except, busting out that wallet. However if your motor has high mileage and a little "valve ticking," this might help you out, along with an oil with ZDDP!

[Lynn]

Just the fact there is a flat tappet doesn't mean you need increased zinc. I admit to being a Stude newbie, but am very familiar with camshaft failures on muscle cars. However, I am guessing none of these Studebakers were intended for high rpm usage. If that is a correct assumption (and I understand it may NOT be), then the valve spring pressure is not that high. High pressure valve springs and low zinc are the killers. Not one or the other; both.
If you are concerned, you can run the Delvac Bud recommends. It has plenty of zinc. I know an engine builder who builds ExTREME high performance engines, and Delvac is all he uses. There are "boutique" oils that will also get the job done, but why go to the trouble and expense if what you need is at Wal-Mart for 1/4 the price.
If you are a firm believer in synthetics, the ONLY additive I would run is half a bottle of GM eos with each change. Some of the zinc additive packages can actually cause more harm than good.
But then, I have no idea if anyone is trying synthetic in an old Studebaker engine.