Engine: Oil pan gasket and rear main seal question

[silverhawk1958]

I'm changing my 58 Hawk from an automatic to a manual and as such had to replace the crankshaft bolts to the longer ones. While I was in there I purchased a new rear main seal and replaced that. According to the manual there should be two cork squares to go in on either side of the rear main. I don't have those that I can find, nor do I recall seeing them on disassembly. Should they have come with the rear main seal kit or the oil pan gasket kit (which I haven't opened yet)? Are they even available anymore or is it a permatex fix by just lining the pan gaskets on both sides? Any tips appreciated, I plan on installing the pan this week.

Thanks-

[StudeRich]

I do not believe there are any FelPro or other Rear Main Seals that come without the tiny cork pieces, certainly none sold by Studebaker Vendors.

The Pan Gasket set only has the parts of the Pan Gasket, two side gaskets and Two End Arch Gaskets.

I do use Permatex RTV High Temp Black Gasket Maker on them.
I suppose you could fill the gap with it and let it harden before assembly, if you don't have an old stock Cork Pan Gasket laying around to cut up for those small pieces.

I sure hope you are Dial Indicating the Clutch Housing to the Block and re-drilling the Dowel Pin locations before final assembly. But then you DO have the Shop Manual, so you should be OK.

[silverhawk1958]

Yup, after getting the pan back on I will be building up a cart to set the engine on in order to dial in the bell housing per the manual.

I did order a Fel-pro kit, though I am thinking the cork was just missing/not included by accident. Hopefully I can get it worked out without having to just buy the whole thing over again for two pieces of cork. I could cut down the old cork from the pan gasket as it is still in good shape.

[JoeHall]

For the missing pieces, go to FLAPS and buy a piece of 3/16" thick cork gasket material. Cut a couple of squares, about 3/16" x 1/4"; test fit them into the recesses, to fit real snug. Dig them back out carefully, slather them with your favorite RTV, and stuff them back in. Then, dab a bit of RTV over top of them. Do not be afraid to use RTV liberally, as long as it does not squish inboard to the oil pan.

Installing the oil pan gasket is not rocket science. Read up on it in the archives here to determine your approach. If you are gonna have the motor out anyway, it will be a piece of cake. Under the car, on a creeper is a little more interesting, but again certainly do-able.

[bezhawk]

I use old neoprene valve cover gaskets, and cut them up to fill the void. Cork shrinks over time causing leaks. Neoprene wont. Use "The Right Stuff" gasket maker and you won't have any leaks. It is the only stuff I have found that will not degrade in oil gas or whatever. It absolutely will not turn to jelly and get into the engines systems.

http://www.all-spec.com/products/85224.html?gclid=CKHFzMP2qMICFaI7MgodVjsARw

[rkapteyn]

I can mail you some of the cork ones if you PM me your mailing address.
Robert Kapteyn

[silverhawk1958]

Robert, thanks. I've got a new pack coming from the vendor and hopefully it has all the parts. If it doesn't I'll hook up with you.

[silverhawk1958]

In reading through the manual it says to remove the filler block on the back of the timing cover but I can't figure out what benefit this adds. You seem to just remove it and then bolt it right back on? I'm probably missing something but does anyone have any insight here?

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

In reading through the manual it says to remove the filler block on the back of the timing cover but I can't figure out what benefit this adds. You seem to just remove it and then bolt it right back on? I'm probably missing something but does anyone have any insight here?

The very front part of the oil pan side gaskets installs between the engine block and the front filler block.

[JoeHall]

In reading through the manual it says to remove the filler block on the back of the timing cover but I can't figure out what benefit this adds. You seem to just remove it and then bolt it right back on? I'm probably missing something but does anyone have any insight here?

Unless there is a reason to remove the filler block, and if it ain't leaking, I just leave it in place. Carefully cut the tips off the gasket that would normally slip between it and the motor block. Then, slather the gasket with RTV and bolt it up. Again, if you do a search here, you will see all this has been addressed in great detail, several times before.

[silverhawk1958]

Well the second Felpro gasket came and the same issue, no cork pieces so maybe it is a Felpro issue. I'll return it and try the set from Studebaker Int. Keep that in mind for anyone else that is ordering a new part. The photo for the Felpro set even shows the cork pieces, but not included...bummer, no work this weekend now.

[JoeHall]

Well the second Felpro gasket came and the same issue, no cork pieces so maybe it is a Felpro issue. I'll return it and try the set from Studebaker Int. Keep that in mind for anyone else that is ordering a new part. The photo for the Felpro set even shows the cork pieces, but not included...bummer, no work this weekend now.

I think you'd be better off to abort the idea of doing this project yourself, and take it to a mechanic.

[tim333]

I have a 57 Commander 259. The Felpro rear main set #BS 10053-1 only has the 2 seals, no cork pieces. Haven't done the fix yet.

[StudeRich]

Usually, if you repeat a mistake and expect a different result...you WILL be disappointed.

If buying these from a Non-Studebaker Vendor, you often get that!

This one is MORE expensive than a Studebaker Vendor, but at least you do/should get the BS 10053-1 complete Seal Kit as shown.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-rear-main-seal-set-bs-10053-1/19782258-P?searchTerm=felpro+bs+10053-1

[tim333]

I work for Advance. You would think a Felpro is a Felpro. The sealed box sure looks the same, I'll order one from work and see what I get.