Engine: Oil and Valve Cover Gaskets

[Washtubman]

Two questions. I went to SI yesterday and got new neoprene valve cover gaskets for the 289. Question 1: Do you recommend sealant/permatex on both surfaces or just the valve cover side?

I'm changing the oil for the first time since I got the car. 91K miles, 289. Question 2: What type oil do you guys use/recommend? I see they have high mileage oil in most major brands and wondering if that should be used.

Thanks for any input.

[62champ]

#1 - because the neoprene gaskets are pretty good at sealing they do not need a lot of sealant, but they do need some. Make sure both surfaces are clean and dry. When I put new ones on the V8 in my Champ, I put a small amount of blue silicone on both sides of the gasket before I bolted them down and have not seen anything since it was done (2009). Also put a small amount around the bolt rubbers as well - same results.

#2 - Asking what oil is best is kind of like asking what is the best beer to drink - everyone has their own opinions and experiences. Would not want to use any single weight oil below 30 and multi-grade where the top number is below 30. Personally I have had really good luck with full synthetic in my everyday vehicles so that is what I have ended up with in my two Studebakers.

Good luck

[jackb]

I usually seal the valve cover only.....but most times they spring a leak after removing for valve adjustments....OIL: any Starburst 10W-30 will be fine....If your oil pressure @ idle is below 20 lbs, you might go to 20W-50, but return to 10W-30 with lower temps....(freezing)

[JimC]

I took a gamble when I swapped my valve covers, and didn't put any sealer on the new gaskets. Two months later, and I still haven't had a drop of oil leak from 'em. I guess I must be lucky!

As far as oil goes, I've run every weight from 10w30 to 15w40 in the engine with good performance. The weather in your area for the next few months will probably determine the weight you use more than anything else. As far as what kind of oil, you're probably okay with any reputable brand. I got a huge discount on Rotella oil a while back, and it was good. A couple months ago Bob Palma pointed out a sale on VR1 racing oil, and so I went and bought a case of that, which is what went into my last oil change.

In general, racing oils are great, because they're formulated for cars that get a lot of wear. Diesel oils are good, because again, diesel engines usually take more of a beating than a standard car. Regular oils are okay, though I would be hesitant to go full bore CASO and put the cheapest no-name oil in a classic car.

And that's my opinion. It is completely different from the next guy's opinion, who will have a completely different opinion from the guy after that. But hopefully it helps!

[StudeRich]

Wow! I can't believe that we got 3 replies with NO mention of the required ZDDP Zinc/Phosphate additive that has been drastically reduced in all Standard "off the shelf Oil" since Nov. 2007 and Diesel Oils a few years later.

This is required in all flat tappet Engines without Roller lifters or Overhead Cams which are no longer Manufactured for new Cars.

There is controversy on each side however, just Search "ZDDP" for a weeks worth of reading!

[JimC]

I mentioned it indirectly. Racing oil has plenty of zddp. Diesel oil now has reduced levels, but it's still not as low as conventional oil for unleaded engines. No name oil probably has the lowest amount of "good stuff" of any option, and so it's dead last on my list.

Personally, I think as long as you stay on top of oil, change it before it's totally spent, and buy quality brands, you are probably miles ahead of those who do otherwise, regardless of whether not the book of zddp is canonized in your automotive gospel.

[Washtubman]

ZDDP, now that's a new one on me. Will have to research that a bit. However, without research, what the heck does it do?

[62champ]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ZDDP

Probably more than you would ever want to know...

[Ron Dame]

No affiliation, but remember good that good old green oil? You can find it here and other places..

http://www.penngrade1.com/

Wow! I can't believe that we got 3 replies with NO mention of the required ZDDP Zinc/Phosphate additive that has been drastically reduced in all Standard "off the shelf Oil" since Nov. 2007 and Diesel Oils a few years later.

This is required in all flat tappet Engines without Roller lifters or Overhead Cams which are no longer Manufactured for new Cars.

There is controversy on each side however, just Search "ZDDP" for a weeks worth of reading!

[StudeRich]

If you really want it short and sweet; it is an Additive that has been in our Oil at least since OHV V8's came out, and probably longer it gives added wear resistance to prevent the wiping action of the Cam on the Valve Lifters from wiping each other out.
The level of ZDDP flat tappet engines need, give or take is about 1000ppm which is way higher than ANY ordinary Oil now has, due new design car Engines not needing it, and possible long term damage to their Catalytic Converters.

There is an additive ZDDPlus that takes care of that, and a FEW Penn. old stock Oils like the old Kendall Refinery, Brad Penn still producing excellent Oil with ZDDP.

[Paul Keller]

The neoprene gaskets will usually seal w/out sealant - depending (how clean surfaces are, how straight the cover is, how rough the sealing surface of the head is, on and on). The "usual" process is to use some sealant (very sticky stuff) on the cover to hold the gasket in place during assembly. Oil type? All the above plus the many threads of past discussions - try a search.
Paul TK

[Dan Timberlake]

RE: oil choice
Stock Studebaker springs are pretty weak and cam action is pretty gentle compared to some, but.......

Studebaker and Chrysler had serious camshaft/lifter wear difficulties when developing their new and pioneering OHV V8 engines back in the early '50s.

In the Studebaker SAE paper the honorable and entertaining SW Sparrow and friends said they found a solution without explanation by modifying the lifter foot surface treatment.
page 457 here -

http://www.studebaker-info.org/SAE/TSVE/tsve.html

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/hemi/chr...#ixzz2e9gmZlKO

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

I use only use Castrol VR1 Racing oil. It has ZDDP as Jim mentioned and will save you and expensive engine rebuilt if you blow out your camshaft without the proper lubrication that ZDDP affords. I buy it by the case every time I go to the States. If you are going to change the valve cover gasket NOW is a good time to adjust your valves as well. Who knows when someone even looked at those valve clearances. There's plenty of reading on that subject as well. Good Luck.

Allen

[Washtubman]

Hey guys, thanks for the lessons on ZDDP. I see SI has that in their catalog, but is it available at the local auto stores; ie. Autozone, etc?

[lark-o-rama]

Hey guys, thanks for the lessons on ZDDP. I see SI has that in their catalog, but is it available at the local auto stores; ie. Autozone, etc?

Yes, I buy mine at O'reilly's. I have not checked AZ, but I am sure they do. As StudeRich and other have mentioned, its a good thing to add at oil change time.