Engine: 289 Connecting rod lock

[T.Wayne]

My Engine re-builder has not seen the taper pin locking the wrist pin in the connecting rod before! Is there a trick to easily remove them? He doesn't want to damage the slot (looks like a screwdriver slot) in the end. He has tried lubricants, mild heat- can't seem to move one yet!

[41 Frank]

Remove the nut and lock washer, then screw the nut onto the threads protruding on the other side, tightening the nut pulls tapered screw out. Sounds like you need to get a shop manual, so your machinist doesn't make a costly mistake.

[T.Wayne]

Thank You Frank, machinist says he will try it and much appreciation for the quick reply!

[studegary]

Are you sure that you are at the proper "Engine re-builder" for a Studebaker?

[unclemiltie]

Please make sure your rebuilder knows the procedure for installing them. Also make sure he reinstalls the pal nuts.

As said above, supplying him with a shop manual and making sure he uses it will save you future headaches

[T.Wayne]

Thanks Gary, I'm beginning to wonder! I appreciate the help!

[T.Wayne]

Thanks Milt, I will see to it! I appreciate the input!

[jimmijim8]

Make sure there are no parts left over when he says he's done.

[speedbump]

Tell him about this website. Helped me a lot on the last build, not so much asking questions but using the search function and reading. I would also disagree with the pal nut suggestion. If it was such a good idea, they would still be used today. I did, and believe that a new performance rod nut, torqued, loosened and retorqued during the con rod rebuild is a much better solution.

[JoeHall]

Make sure there are no parts left over when he says he's done.

Oops ! You mean there are not supposed to be any parts left over? I always have a few, and just toss them in the spare parts bin.

[rusty nut garage]

I don't mean to sound disrespectful but if he is an experienced engine builder with zero studebaker knowledge he at the very least needs a STUDEBAKER SHOP manual. Even if you have to buy it. Otherwise I'd find another builder.

My Engine re-builder has not seen the taper pin locking the wrist pin in the connecting rod before! Is there a trick to easily remove them? He doesn't want to damage the slot (looks like a screwdriver slot) in the end. He has tried lubricants, mild heat- can't seem to move one yet!

[speedbump]

One of my favorite gurus, Smokey Yunick said "the engine don't know what name is on the valve cover." IMO, that statement carries a lot of weight. They all work the same and all have their idiosyncracies. I think this forum could actually be better than a manual because one gets a ton of opinion along with the how to's. I didn't like the way the pan gaskets fit, but because of here, I didn't cut them, figured out a way to squeeze them down and(knock on wood) it doesn't leak. I was convinced I wanted to put a late style timing cover seal in, but an hour into shimming with the beer can, decided I couldn't go that way and because of a proper install and opinions from here, it doesn't leak.(knock again) And in fooling around with the cover and a seal dimension book, I think I found an easy machining process and a flanged(Ford style) seal that would really work. Didn't have a spare timing cover and wouldn't risk it on someone elses. I think there should be a few things left in the bucket when you're finished....as long as one of them isn't the pipe plug that goes in the oil gallery on the driver side rear. : )

[rusty nut garage]

Smokey Yunick was a few talents ahead of most cats that are asking questions on this forum!
Time spent with the shop manual will ensure that oddities like crankshaft end play and connecting rod orientation and wrist pin locks etc are assembled correctly

One of my favorite gurus, Smokey Yunick said "the engine don't know what name is on the valve cover." IMO, that statement carries a lot of weight. They all work the same and all have their idiosyncracies. I think this forum could actually be better than a manual because one gets a ton of opinion along with the how to's. I didn't like the way the pan gaskets fit, but because of here, I didn't cut them, figured out a way to squeeze them down and(knock on wood) it doesn't leak. I was convinced I wanted to put a late style timing cover seal in, but an hour into shimming with the beer can, decided I couldn't go that way and because of a proper install and opinions from here, it doesn't leak.(knock again) And in fooling around with the cover and a seal dimension book, I think I found an easy machining process and a flanged(Ford style) seal that would really work. Didn't have a spare timing cover and wouldn't risk it on someone elses. I think there should be a few things left in the bucket when you're finished....as long as one of them isn't the pipe plug that goes in the oil gallery on the driver side rear. : )