Brakes: Homemade Drum Hub Puller

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

I spent about 8 hours in my buddies machine shop attempting to build a drum/hub puller with success plus running around town trying to find a grade 8 or better bolt to use. I have never used a lathe or a milling machine before, both really cool machines to try out and experiment with. I used a old hub. Used the lathe to true up the hub and then cut back the outside of the hub to recess the centre to get enough threads to attach it to the drum. Swedged the 5 holes of the hub to allow the puller to seat on the drum a little closer to the drum. Here's what I came up with, and have to say I have never had an easier time removing a hub. I can now move forward to install the Dana 44 and get rid of the Dana 27.



Allen

[JimC]

That's pretty slick. Great work!

[Deaf Mute]

Isn't it amazing what owing a Studebaker leads one to? Keep up the good work!

[Michidan]

Nice one. My father was a firm believer in the "right tool for the job" approach. And man was he ever right

[jclary]

Good work. I have one of those high quality "Three-legged" pullers made specifically for the purpose. Although mine works as it should, it can be a pain if the legs are not evenly adjusted.

With the one you have made...there should be no excuse for not being able to apply even pressure. Great work!

[Dan Timberlake]

Good job.

I generally like to put a few washers or protector with a center hole to receive the puller screw "point" between the end of the shaft and the puller screw to avoid buggering up the parts center hole.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/OTC-Shaft-Protector-Set-5U731

Sometimes that center hole (which was an original machining reference datum) is useful for checking shaft striaghtness or re-working the shaft.

[Andy R.]

Great work! This type puller is a joy to use and works like a charm. I have to admit sweating a bit at the thought of stripping a stud, but that wasn't an issue.

Lacking skills and equipment to make my own, I bought this one at StudebakerParts.com for under $80 IIRC.
The quality is superb and the bolt pattern works for both cars and trucks.

[Stude8]

Think your hub was on tight? Here is a picture of the rig I made up to pull my 1928 Studebaker Commander Wood Spoke wheel and drum with. The 2-13/16" OD hub required a custom threaded clamping tool with a large 1/4" steel plate behind it to pull with and not stress the wood spokes. It did take a little acetylene heat on the hub to break the bond with the taper axle end.
Stude8

GBHubPullerSetupC.jpg (80.1 KB)

[sals54]

I got a "home made" puller in a car I bought years ago. Its made from high quality stainless and has a "cap" that threads onto the axle in place of the castle nut. Then the puller is bolted onto the studs and the center bolt rides on the "cap" so as to save the axle from damage. Its beautifully made. And its really shiny.

[52hawk]

Nice job on the tool,but I'm wondering why you need to pull the hubs if you're changing from a 27 to a 44?

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Nice job on the tool,but I'm wondering why you need to pull the hubs if you're changing from a 27 to a 44?

I had wanted to install some 1965 flanged axles into a 1963 Dana 44 only to discover they would not fit due to a different spline number. I had previously pressed the hubs out of some finned drums for the flanged axles leaving me with no drums. Hence I pulled the drums/hub off the Dana 27 to use on the Dana 44 with the stock tapered axles.

Allen