Ignition: Neutral safety switch?

[JBOYLE]

On my automatic equipped Avanti, occasionally when I go to start the car, turning the ignition produces just a click. I then have to take the transmissioon out of part and return it to park,
When I turn the key, it then starts normally

I'm guessing its the neutral saftey switch.
Do you think it needs to be replaced or just adjusted?

Is it a big deal to repair/replace and what's the cost of a new switch?

[StudeRich]

If it produces a "Click" that means the Neutral switch is probably working, the failure is most likely in the Ignition Switch, Solinoid or Starter. Try wiggling the Key around in slight variations of the start position.

A little trouble shooting (testing for power or continuity) is required to be sure. It may be some sort of weak connection internally or externally on the Neutral switch but not too likely.

If it were the shift linkage adjustment or sloppyness in linkage, wigging the shifter in N or P while holding the Key to start would usually make it start.

[wittsend]

I'll throw this out there as a lesser, but possible cause; it may be the wire from the switch to the solenoid. Mine was intermittent, it either started, clicked or did nothing, - but the ammeter would still take a drive. I had taken the switch apart and cleaned and tested the contacts. I had taken the solenoid apart and cleaned and tested its contacts. Lastly, I used a screwdriver to jumper the heavy cable lug to the solenoid engagement wire (take all necessary precautions) and it cranked over every time. Proof the starter and solenoid were good.

A jumper wire (switch to solenoid) was used to confirm and then the wire itself was replaced. BTW, not sure what engine your Avanti has, but my Daytona is Chevy powered.

Tom

[Stan.Gundry]

Neutral safety switch

I had this very problem a year ago and it turned out to be the neutral safety switch. I replaced the safety switch, and that solved the problem. The old switch had 2 problems. The wires that connect to the switch terminals were either broken or hanging by a copper strand or two. The other problem was that there was such a build up of rust between the bell crank and the switch body that the bell crank could hardly move. I ordered a new switch from SI and installed it. It was a lot of work, but I disassembled the old switch cleaned it up, and reassembled it. It works just fine now so I have spare.

[JBOYLE]

Try wiggling the Key around in slight variations of the start position.

That seems to have worked...today at any rate.
I'll keep playing with it.


Thanks to all for the suggestion.
I see S-I does carry the switch, I wonder if NAPA might as well (I'd think it would have other applications)?

[StudeRich]

/Cut/I see S-I does carry the switch, I wonder if NAPA might as well (I'd think it would have other applications)?

No, no other make uses the twist-on Bezel like the Stude. ones. The aftermarket Chrysler switches look the same on the back, they are the ones you see on about half of the eBay Studes. these have a crude knurled NUT showing on the dash instead of a nice beveled chrome bezel.

If you want cheaper, get the S.I. "Replacement" switch with a allen wrench installed screw-on bezel, and they tear up the finish.