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Timing cover gaskets and seals

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  • Engine: Timing cover gaskets and seals

    With just 5000 miles on my rebuild looks like I haft redo the timing cover seals. Nice layer of oil underside from my trip back to the PSMCD's. I have a couple of NOS complete gasket sets, but I think that may have been the source of the problem. Any suggestions for a more modern or efficient seal before I do a tear down? Should have asked Phil Harris at the races, but didn't know about the problem 'til I got home. Thanks all.
    Dave Warren (Perry Mason by day, Perry Como by night)

  • #2
    Are you sure that is what it is? Could it be the fuel pump? Pan gasket? Oil filler tube gasket? Is it possible the filler block between the pan and the timing cover is stripped out? Unless the front seal got buggered up, I haven't had too much of a problem with them, or the timing cover gasket. Now, the oil pan gasket is a different story. Those two square cork blocks at either end can be a real bear.....

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    • #3
      I would also check the crankcase ventilation system, whether road draft or positive ventilation. Issues here will create pressure in the crankcase, which can be hard on gaskets and seals.

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      • #4
        You can also modify the timing gear cover to accept a modern seal. Ingvar Vik used to do this, and maybe other vendors do also. There is also a do-it-yourself approach (http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/...2/oilseal.html). I put modern neoprene seals on the timing gear covers of all my Studebakers and they haven't leaked since.
        ~Dale

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        • #5
          Chuck, the fuel pump IS leaking a little and I have a fresh one to go there. That wouldn't account for the amount or location of the bigger leak. And thanks, Studecentre, it has a clear road draft tube (I was getting blowby from the filler cap but it seems to have calmed down). It seems to be coming from the front of the pan. I'll print out blackhawk's suggestion and buy some neoprene seals before I take it apart. Hard to diagnose from an oil smere, but having as many possible cures ready before I do it will mean less shop time. Thanks.
          Dave Warren (Perry Mason by day, Perry Como by night)

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          • #6
            I have done the neoprene seal & it has worked well since. The kit I used came with a stainless steel sleeve in case the vibration dampner has a groove in it from wear. The only thing else needed was material to shim the seal to the timing cover. I bought a cheap feeler guage & used it as shim material. I wish we could come up with a neoprene seal for the rear main like Pontiac owners have!
            59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
            60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
            61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
            62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
            62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
            62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
            63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
            63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
            64 Zip Van
            66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
            66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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            • #7
              Thanks, Blackhawk. I printed out both versions. The second refers to Ingar Vic's method and it should help. I'll track down the suggested kit and/or seals. Warren, the feeler guages should work, (one method says beer can material will also work . While I'm at it I'm upgrading to dual stainless exhaust and I'll get rid of that cross-over pipe (now stinky with oil). Don Simmons called me and my pipes are on the way. I'll have to open up another hole in the rear valance. The metal one on there is really nice (thanks Bob Petersen). I have a fiberglass spare from Classic Enterprises if I don't want to cut up the steel one. End of the driving season and I'd rather do it now than worry about all it winter. Cheers.
              Dave Warren (Perry Mason by day, Perry Como by night)

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