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  • #1

    Ignition: Ignition switch diagram

    Does anyone have an ignition switch diagram that shows how it sits in the dash? I put my key in and the whole thing fell back into the dash. I try to push it back into place but it looks like there is a coil or spring that makes it difficult to hold in place. I am not sure how it is supposed to catch and seat. I tried what was in the manual but it still wont catch nor do I see a way for it to. When it fell back I didnt hear anything pop or break. Is there a pin or bracket that holds it in place?

    Thanks!
    Tags: None
  • #2
    The first thing you really need to do is disconnect the battery! You don't want to make things really bad by having something touch the back of the switch. Second, give us some info. What kind of car is this on?
    Carey
    Packard Hawk

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    • #3
      Yes, disconnect the battery to avoid having a hot terminal short to ground. I do not remember how the ignition switch is held in on earlier Studebaker cars, but on the early '60s models, it is held in place by the chrome bezel. Tiny "ears" on the switch housing fit into corresponding slots in the bezel. You push the switch into the bezel against the spring pressure and then turn it slightly in the bezel to the lock position. This is similar to what you do when you replace a tail light bulb. Look at the bezel and you will see what is needed. That said, the part of the bezel that locks the switch in place most likely broke on your car, if it was okay before and then suddenly gave way. When putting these together, there is no half way. It either gets turned to the right position and catches, or it doesn't and you are left trying to get them together. ~ Dale

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Dads Baby View Post
        The first thing you really need to do is disconnect the battery! You don't want to make things really bad by having something touch the back of the switch. Second, give us some info. What kind of car is this on?
        62 gt hawk

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        • #5
          Your most likely problem is that the Bezel is broken. Pull the switch back with the Battery (+) Cable removed, remove the Chrome Bezel by pulling it out from the face of the Dash, you will then be able to see that the switch locks into the Bezel by two "pins", the slots or ears on the Bezel will be damaged and you can get a new Aluminun replacement instead of the pot metal one you have, at Studebaker Vendors at: http://studebakervendors.com

          Welcome to the Washington State SDC Chapters, we have many here depending on where you live, your location is not included in your profile as required now, so not sure which one you are closest to.
          You can join the International SDC Organization to recieve the wonderful "Turning Wheels" Monthly Newsmagazine at the top of these pages for a first year discount. Again Welcome Aboard!

          Rich. at Studebakers Northwest
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner
          SDC Member Since 1967

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          • #6
            Hi All,

            Searched ignition switch and found this topic. Trying to get my car ready for the Nashville show this week. I have a similar problem on my 1961 Lark Cruiser. Switch fell back when I went to turn the key. Was able to reconnect the switch to the chrome bezel with these instructions, however, now the bezel is not flush against the dash. Noticed a notch in the dash that I lined the assembly up with appeared tight but you guessed it first time I touched it came loose. What am I missing? Do I need a new bezel? Also is the L booted wire supposed to snap over the threaded shaft coming out of the back of the ignition switch. Boot is cracked. Is this just a electrical end that I can get at Auto Zone? Needless to say the battery cables are off as I see another ignition wire with damaged insulation. Wiring behind the dash is a mess on this car as it has aftermarket A/C and radio.

            Reading other posts I think my sticking accelerator problem may now be a broken motor mount although they don't appear to visibly damaged. I'm thinking I can try jacking the engine from below and look for separation. If I spread the load out with a sheet of plywood is that enough to keep from damaging the oil pan? That repair may be past my limited mechanical abilities.

            Poor baby, may just be towed to the show and dressed up with a For Sale sign. LOL

            Thanks,
            Cabrina Dieters
            Murfreesboro TN
            1961 Lark Cruiser

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