Engine: Replacement engine

[jodi]

As mentioned in my first post I have just purchased a 1956 President. (The term is used loosely, its a shell requiring so much tender loving care)

The engine is pretty much done in, most parts are rusted beyond repair, some parts are missing, all in all its going to be easier to drop a entire new block in.

However I am pretty sure I can not purchase a new studebaker engine, therefore are there any good replacements that people could recommend.

I would like it to feel original as possible, however I do want increased reailablilty.

Are there any blocks that people could recommend that make good conversions? Or do I go the whole hog and pretty much replace every part and go original.

[PackardV8]

When done correctly, nothing is more reliable than a Studebaker V8. Rebuildable Studebaker 259" core engines are still pretty thick on the ground and much less hassle than a conversion. Figure $3,000 to rebuild one like new. While 289" core engines are more difficult to find, they're still out there. A good machine shop might find your engine has some usable parts, including, cross your fingers, the 289" crankshaft.

jack vines

[Noxnabaker]

Do you know the condition on the gearbox & rear axle?

I've gotta -55 Champion sedan that had a sized engine & a rear axle that was baaad, not knowing 'bout the state of the gearbox, so I bought a -77 Plymouth Volare & took the whole bit from.

But then you got to do something about the brackets & there's a problem with the starter's electric connections being in the way for the pitman-arm.
& the oil-pan, preferably from a van, with the dip-stick is also needed. A pan from a pick-up is also good but the van's pan is shallower so the engine can sit lower &/or give more clearance for the steering-parts.
The engine-mounts from the van is also quite easy to use but a bit high & the angle is not exact (I cut & welded mine) but if you cut out & weld on the stuff on the balk from the Volare/Aspen then you've got the coolest stuff I've seen; & the angle doesn't matter then!
The rear axle from a Valiant before -67 is also probably easier since it's got narrower leafspring-fastenings, or from a early Mustang or Falcon.

I try to keep to the same wheel-stud pattern & such.

But on the other hand... there's loads of Chevy 350's around & you can almost get the needed stuff in the supermarket just where the butter & milk is sold... but just a-l-m-o-s-t!

[jodi]

The original is the 289? Am I correct in thinking that.

As for gearbox etc, I am taking it most parts need replacing, its in a bad that but that's what I wanted as I wanted a real project to get my hands dirty and a hobby on the weekend, as I run my own business and have been falling into the habit of having work consume it so need a distraction and this is it.

[whacker]

If the car is that far gone, maybe you would be better off looking for another one, and using this one for parts?
Buying and rebuilding a Studebaker block is your easiest and cheapest choice. All the 1955 - 1964 blocks are interchangeable, easy to rebuild and parts are readily available. It will fit without modification, and look right in the frame and body. I have a couple of spare blocks laying around here, but I am probably too far from you to make it practical for you to get one of mine. I'm sure there are plenty of them around you. As to the transmission, the Borg-Warner T86 is also real common, and will fit like a glove. There are kits to put any of several GM transmissions in also.
Whatever, it's your car, do what you want with it.

[Dick Steinkamp]

Absolutely ANY engine can be a replacement engine, but it is a lot of engineering and fabrication to do any one of them. You have to engineer and fabricate motor mounts, trans mounts, an exhaust system, carb, clutch, shift linkage, cooling, drive shaft, and you need to be aware of clearances, pinion angle, and 12 other "problems" that will develop as you get into the "replacement". If you have good engineering and fabrication skills and if you have a plasma cutter and welder and are good at using them...go for it. If not, it could be VERY frustrating.

From the sounds of your "project", I'd agree with whacker....especially if this is your first project.

[52-fan]

Since we don't know your age or experience any advice is a shot in the dark, but If the car you have is very bad you would be better off with another one for a first project. Most of us who have been messing with cars for very long have fallen in love with some vehicle and spent time and money with no good result.
If you are new at this game, a car that is in fair shape, but needs work would be your best choice. If you can post pictures you will get better advice on how to proceed.
In any case, its your choice and we will help where we can.

[Noxnabaker]

Yeah, as said "we don't know your age or experience" but if you're young you'll learn by asking folx here like I do(!) & if you've got experience...

& when it comes to rust: a anglegrinder with cutting disks & a welder is a mans best friends!!!

& by the way, I just today fixed my clearance-problem with starter - pitman-arm by moving it forward two splines & shorten the arm that goes forward from the pitman-arm, but I had to make new splines in the pitman-arm since it's got four flat spaces where there aint no splines. & I filed it, tricky to file straight but now it's done!
& I made a test-arm that I shortened first & it came to be 5,5cm / 55mm shorter.
& that's for a Mopar s.b.