Brake pedal adjustment

[wash100]

Helloing ggod advice.

Kamzack,

Sounds like and easy method. I will give it a try.

Thanks for all of you giving good advice.

Clyde

[wash100]

Hi guys,

I bleed the MC yesterday very little air. Today I bleed all the wheels and got a lot of air bubbles. I have a solid 1/2 pedal now. I am going to check brake adjustment since I put new shoes all around. After a test drive I will bleed the system one more time. I read my manual an finally figured out how to adjust the play out of the barke pedal !!!!.


Thanks for all the help,
Clyde

Thank

[wash100]

I still have to much play in brkae pedal. Drove truck and brakes faded to almost nothing, No leaks in system. Has anyone found and adjstable push rod to use on a 64 Champ with hanging pedals?

Thanks,
Clyde

[wash100]

YEA I HAVE BRAKES !!!!!!!!!! I went to the local brake store and they went through their misc. parts box and found me a longer push rod. I cut it to 3/8 longer then the old one. I have a nice hard 3/4 pedal/ Thanks for all the ideas, you guys are great.

Clyde

[Scott]

Does anyone have a photo that shows the eccentric bolt that's used for adjusting the brake arm (suspended type as used in 64-66)? I'm a little confused exactly where this thing is in the linkage and what it looks like. I may need to adjust mine.

[52 Ragtop]

If you want to "micro adjust" the pedal, drill the end of the push rod and tap it to a 10/32. Use a buttonhead allen and you can adjust it for a great pedal.

Jim

[Scott]

I'm not that handy and I don't have a drill press.

[stude1964]

I had a similar problem after installing power brakes in my '64 wagon. The brake pedal had too much play & was too close to the floor when it engaged. I re-bled the system again & in doing so readjusted the linings. An adjuster was frozen , once fixed I had a solid pedal w/lots of clearance to the floor. Great to hear you solved your problem.
Rob in PA.

[Scott]

ACtually, my car is a 66 and already has the adjustable acorn nut on the pushrod. I'm having trouble getting the whole system adjusted with the new dual master cylinder (aftermarket for my disc brakes). I might need to adjust the pedal play as well as the acorn nut (which I think is already as far back as I can put it. The brake booster rebuilder said I could take the whole threaded part off the rod, but if I do that I'm sure the pedal will go to the floor. That's why I said I might need to adjust the pedal. I bet there won't be enough adjustment available, though.

[StudeRich]

Some of you people are starting to worry me with all these backyard installations of Dual Masters, Power Brakes etc. etc.

A well engineered Brake system like the '54-'66 Wagner/Studebaker systems have undergone many hours, days, years of development and testing to make sure they are SAFE. Proven my Millions of miles of use.

Unless you study the Chassis Parts Catalog carefully, to get ALL of the correct pieces, and ESPECIALLY the M/C Push Rod for Single, Dual M/C, Power, or Power Disc. you are taking a BIG risk driving a Car with only half of the correct pieces.

If you follow Jim Turner's advice to do some well thought out mods, you should be Ok, but please do not go off on your own bolting different Stude. parts together that never were designed to be that way.
Please remember the safety of yourself, your family and others on the road. be safe out there! Rich.

[Scott]

I am using Turner's stuff and following his advice and have had some help in person from guys that know what to do AND had a shop look at it and the thing is still not right. I've been tinkering with it off and on for a year. I'm getting a rebuilt booster soon and then I want to get this thing finally done. If I can't I'm going to go back to the single reservoir and think about the money wasted trying to make the car safer for mountain roads.