Brake pedal adjustment

[wash100]

I checked the depth and they are the same. I have bleed all the wheels several times and only have a 1/4 pedal. When I measured the plunger hole on the master cylinder I noticed it was v ery hard to push in, is that normal? I have the old one without fluid in it and it pushes in very easy.

Thanks,

Clyde

[bezhawk]

I don't know if they used the same pedal pivot screw as the Avanti or not, but the bolt that the rod attaches to the pedal is eccentric. Loosen the 1/2 " nut, and turn the 3/4" hex head to adjust pedal height.

[52 Ragtop]

IF you need to make it "adjustable", cut the end of the rod straight, center punch & frill for a 10/32 button head allen screw. Drill & tap the rod at LEAST 1" and use a 3/4' long 10/32 button head allen. Your linkage is now adjustable! Once you find the "sweet spot" put a drop of loctite on the threads and you're done. I did this on a 62 Daytona, using a 68 Mustang dual M/C. Worked out great, got a good high firm pedal.

Jim

[wash100]

Good idea, I will check the depth, i still have the old one.

Thanks,

Clyde

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

You replaced the master cylinder - I trust with a correct one. 8E ('63 - '64) Champ Pickups used a readily available master cylinder - 1/2 ton Champs same as '61 - '66 Ford 1/2 ton, and 3/4 ton same as '61 - '66 Ford 3/4 ton - but given your problem I would want to confirm that the pushrod depth of the new master cylinder piston was the same as the one you removed.

[wash100]

Thanks fo all the help. I have replaced the MC,brake lines, brake shoes, WC and hoses. After bleeding it looks like 1/2 soild pedal. The brake pedal is traveling about 1/2 or a little more. The rod that goes into the MC is not ajustable. It is the original rod.

Clyde

[Alan]

The rod that pivots on the pin at the pedal is captured in the aluminum piston on the master cylinder. I have seen both adjustable and non-adjustable rods in replacement master cylinders.

[BobPalma]

First step is to be sure the master cylinder itself and the balalnce of the brake system are OK.

If it is bad internally, you could be mistaking too much pedal travel to engage the piston because the piston isn't fully retracting or the balance of the brake system needs attention and too much internal piston travel is required to hydraulically engage the brakes. BP

[52 Ragtop]

I "think" there is also an adjustment between the linkage and the M/C. You will need to take the M/C off the cowl and look. No need to loosen any brake lines. It is either there, or under the dash. Either way it 's a PITA to do.

Jim

[jackb]

a couple of assumptions.....1) the mechanism hasn't been compromised by a weakend cowl. and 2) the system is the same as the later Larks. There is a small rubber stop that can be adjusted by loosening the lock nut and turning the stop screw until the desired free travel (1/4 inch) is obtained....

[wash100]

I have a 64 champ pickup that has the hanging clutch and brake pedal. I have to much play in my brake pedal. According to the manual it should be 1/4 of an inch. I can not figure out were the adjustment is looking at the picture in my shop manual. Can anyone help?

Thanks,

clyde