Engine: replacing valve seals

[maxpower1954]

My '63 GT R-2 is showing signs of bad valve seals; on cold start up a few plugs are miss firing from oil fouling and blue smoke is coming out the left exhaust, since the heat riser is still closed. I last did this job on my 1960 Lark almost twenty years ago - the valve seal rubbers were so hard they shaterred like glass when hit with a hammer. I have plently of OEM valve seals to do the repair, but what's the best modern alternative? I did a search and found confusing information. Ford valve seals seem to be out of production. I don't want to modify the valve stem or guide if I can help it.

Thanks, Russ Farris

[StudeRich]

I do not know about TODAY, but I purchased the 2.3 Liter 4 Cyl. Seals for a '86 Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe a couple years ago at NAPA, FelPro SS70037 is a Set of (4) Intake and (4) Exhaust, so you need TWO Sets for a V-8. They are High Temp. and the Intakes are Premium Quality (Registered Brandname of Dupont Inc.@) = Viton.

[PackardV8]

Try the CASO way first. The Studebaker, along with tens of millions of Ford and Chevy small block V8s, uses 11/32" valve stems. Rather than pay retail, I go to a head shop or engine rebuilder. Good shops often modify the valve guides on older engines they rebuild to use modern positive seals. The engine gasket sets they buy for the older engines have the umbrella seals. If they haven't been throwing them away, they have a box full of new unused umbrella seals and will usually sell 16 for much less than NAPA over-the-counter. Just tell them you want 11/32" viton umbrella seals.

jack vines

[Dick Steinkamp]

Although I've always replaced all 16, it seems to me that only the intake should need seals...unless the exhaust guides are COMPLETELY worn out. No suction on the exhaust side to draw the oil past the guides and into the combustion chamber.

[StudeRich]

After seeing the quality and style of these modern high compression, very high Temp. improved late model seals, you will never bother to grind your Valve Guides and use the PC Teflon seals that do not allow enough Oil on the Valves and Guides or use ordinary Stude. umbrella Seals ever again, there is no comparison.

I think the Exhaust Seals help keep the hot compression gases/pressure out of the Crankcase.

[Jackson]

I used two sets of NAPA R45404 in my 63 lark R2, was Dec 06.

[dpson]

When I changed the engine in my 62 Lark (from a parts car) it smoked pretty badly.

It was kind of embarrasing driving thru town or at a car show.

I installed the modern Viton (FELPRO SS 72683) seals and the difference was amazing, no more blue smoke.

I didn't do any machining of the valve guides, just put them like you would the Studebaker umbrella seals.

As I recall the set of modern seals was around $20 and well worth it.

[StudeRich]

Folks the last TWO posts about "Special" Valve seals have NOT indicated the application! ?????????

And neither is the same as Post #2!

[SN-60]

To: StudeRich,---- The part numbers indicated in the above posts are all the information a good parts store needs. I sure hope that when You go to buy a master cylinder for a STUDEBAKER, and the parts guy
never heard of a STUDEBAKER, You don't say "No problem - it also fits a HENRY J" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[BrianC]

My 63GT Hawk is blowing blue from one side, i recently purchased seals from Studebaker Intl. Are these a good quality seal or should i use something else. Should i replace all 16 even though the other side is clean???

[SScopelli]

Never let an old thread die..

Seen these on ebay. Looks like they would fit with no machining to the guide

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Clad-Viton-Valve-Stem-Seals-11-32-x-562-Chevy-sb-Ford-Chrysler-sbc-/221346988982?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33894f03b6

He say 11/32X0.562, and later Stude Guides are 0.564.

[Lamar]

Never let an old thread die..

Seen these on ebay. Looks like they would fit with no machining to the guide
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Clad-V...item33894f03b6

Those will require machining on most older engines, the guides od are not concentric to the stem on most. Also those will cause excessive stem wear on older engines that do not have chromed or stainless stems, the do not allow enough oil to pass for adequate lubrication. Lamar

[swvalcon]

Dick is right you don't need seals on the exhaust side in fact you want just a small amount of oil to move past the valve and guide so you don't have abnormal wear.