Body / Glass: Rear Window Replacement 64-66 Lark

[mrjazzmillcreek]

Does anyone know the replacement procedure for a new rear window installation and trim for a 64-66 Lark

[Skip Lackie]

The trim is held on by plastic clips that snap onto little welded-on studs. This is the same design that is used on many GM cars in the 60s and 70s. You release the clips with a hook-shaped release tool that is available from many FLAPS.

[WCP]

Ray, I'm interested in this too, as the manual description is a little thin. I have to replace the weatherseal on the '64 Daytona this winter. Some questions: how do the clips release? - pry up or what and what does the release tool look like? - any pictures?

[rusty65]

Me three! In the meantime, I'm kinda diggin' the look of the black duct tape with the flat black rattle-can.
Kinda stealth-CASO looking from 20 feet!

[Starlight]

The trim is held on by plastic clips that snap onto little welded-on studs. This is the same design that is used on many GM cars in the 60s and 70s. You release the clips with a hook-shaped release tool that is available from many FLAPS.

Skip......I wasn't aware that Studebaker ever used the welded on nail type studs for chrome strips.....I think the trim is inbedded in the rubber before installing the rear window and front windshield......As far I know that is still the way they are installed.....I know for sure that the front windshield trim is installed that way.......Keep on Studebakering.......

[bezhawk]

Skip......I wasn't aware that Studebaker ever used the welded on nail type studs for chrome strips.....I think the trim is inbedded in the rubber before installing the rear window and front windshield......As far I know that is still the way they are installed.....I know for sure that the front windshield trim is installed that way.......Keep on Studebakering.......

Nope, starting in 64, they are like many GM vehicles.Or like early Mustangs. The glass is still gasketed in place, but they DO have the metal pins that hold clips that hold the trim in place. (they were metal on my car). The tool looks like a flat, thin, anchor shaped piece of steel. The point of the 'anchor' is slipped under the trim, slid along until you hit a clip, and hooked under an edge of a clip. Then the tool is rocked and used to take tension away from the edge of the body, thus releasing the molding. Usually you will have to take a putty knife and gently put upward pressure on the trim at the same time to release it .
Many times the removal method will scratch the paint under the molding. Care must be made to prevent rust from forming .

[Warren Webb]

Bez has it down very well. The only thing I might add as a word of caution is when using the clip release tool, be very careful not to "nick" the edge of the glass or it WILL shatter! I use a very short turn. The lip of the moulding is small so the clip doesnt have to move much for the moulding to release. Start at a joint. I like to start at a lower corner & work up or towards the center & around. Slight pressure outward on the moulding aids to the clip release also.

[Skip Lackie]

I believe the shop manual (or the later service letter that dealt with water leaks through the rear window gasket) recommended putting a couple of layers of masking tape along the edge of the painted area as close to the moulding as possible) to protect it. If you can find one, buy a double-headed tool that has J-shaped blades facing both left and right. The second blade is handy for removing the corner mouldings where it's more convenient to come in from the other direction. I have one and can loan it if you can't find one.

The part number for the clip is 1358695, but if they're not available, any glass shop can provide a modern plastic GM clip that will work just fine. The metal clips rust and the plastic ones tend to break during removal.

[candbstudebakers]

I believe the shop manual (or the later service letter that dealt with water leaks through the rear window gasket) recommended putting a couple of layers of masking tape along the edge of the painted area as close to the moulding as possible) to protect it. If you can find one, buy a double-headed tool that has J-shaped blades facing both left and right. The second blade is handy for removing the corner mouldings where it's more convenient to come in from the other direction. I have one and can loan it if you can't find one.

The part number for the clip is 1358695, but if they're not available, any glass shop can provide a modern plastic GM clip that will work just fine. The metal clips rust and the plastic ones tend to break during removal.

I have removed many rear windows from the 64-66 cars and the clips are metal and all I have ever seen are green in color and I have never seen one rusted away but then I live on the west coast, when ever removing an old gasket I would just cut the inter lip all the way around the window and then just push it out from the inside and it all comes out as a unit rubber, clip, and trim if You are installing a new rubber then cutting the old one is no problem. Still need to be careful when pushing and have some else outside to catch it when it lets go, good luck

[mrjazzmillcreek]

Thanks to all for help,just need to get new clips now as old ones are lost.