Upgrading to 4 Wheel Disc

[jlmccuan]

OK, I've done the searches and read all the threads on brakes. The decision has been made to upgrade our 66 Avanti II to 4 wheel discs. The next question is scratch build, or buy someone's kit and if kit, whose? Sure would appreciate some input here.

Thanks,
Jim

[JDP]

Buy the Turner kit, but rethink the rear disks, they'll make very little difference for the cost involved unless you just like the cool factor.

JDP/Maryland

64 Daytona HT/R2 clone
63 GT R2
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
58 Starlight
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

[jlmccuan]

Ah yes, the cool factor. I must admit, that does enter into the equation. My wheels are 17" 5 spokes, so the brake components will need to be cleaned up since they are exposed for viewing.

[Mike Van Veghten]

It all boils down to how good you are with a plate of steel and hand tools...?

Tom (sbca96), maybe a few others as well as myself have done our own and have been happy. If you're not that handy (not a put-down) with making parts on the bench, Turners kits may be the way to go.

In case you haven't seen mine - click on the 54 Conestoga pic's.

http://Public.Fotki.com/-Mike-/

Have fun either way you go.

Mike

[jlmccuan]

I do have SolidWorks, a 4000W laser, a 145T brake and a few other toys. Would anyone have drawings of their adapters and brackets for sale, trade, or dare I say free?

I will say the allure of fabricating a stainless adapter and bracket is very interesting, and Summit has those drilled 13" rotors on sale...

Anybody need some stainless logo's cut??

[dave smith]

why not put a disc brake rear end in it probably cheaper and easier good luck

[wcarroll@outrageous.net]

Jim-

I'm in the process of installing 4-wheel discs on my '63 Avanti. I have a Turner rear kit on the stock Dana 44 and a mid-size GM setup on the front (similar to Turner's Kit). Honestly, if I were to do it over I would go the same route as Tom (sbca96). It's less expensive, offers better performance, additional weight reduction and there's a huge selection of aftermarket parts to choose from. Plus you already have the 17" wheels needed to clear the monster calipers. Unfortunately, I started my 4-wheel conversion some time ago and now have too much time and money wrapped up in what I have, so I'm just gonna have to stick with what I've got. Just my .02 cents

[jlmccuan]

Good to know. I have cheap access to GM parts, but the big Ford rotors and calipers sure look sweet. Haven't checked into the cost of the Ford calipers, but will today.

I thought Tom might chime in on this, but not so far...

[64V-K7]

My Avanti has the Steel-tech kit on the rear(had to fabricate my own E-brake), Turner on the front, 16X8" alloys (5 spoke), quick steer arms. I used the master cylinder from an 85 Cadillac Seville, with an 85 booster. (One suggestion... don't use silicone brake fluid)
The 4 wheel setup does look good..

Bob Johnstone

[Swifster]

Jim, the Ranger, Mustang, Explorer, etc., use the dependable 8.8" rear end, and in the case of the Mustang and Explorer, the rear end width is also a direct fit for the Lark/Avanti. Measure out your rear end and let your local salvage yard be your guide. Most will include the calipers, brackets, etc for minimal or no charge.

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Tom - Valrico, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona

[jlmccuan]

Interesting...I happen to have a '92 Explorer sitting in the shed. I'll take a closer look tonight.

[Swifster]

quote:Originally posted by Swifster

Jim, the Ranger, Mustang, Explorer, etc., use the dependable 8.8" rear end, and in the case of the Mustang and Explorer, the rear end width is also a direct fit for the Lark/Avanti. Measure out your rear end and let your local salvage yard be your guide. Most will include the calipers, brackets, etc for minimal or no charge.

Jim, I'm sorry. I just reread what I wrote and I meant to say it's almost a direct fit.

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Tom - Valrico, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona

[Mike Van Veghten]

May I give the gang thinking about monster brakes something to think about......

Most Studes are "fairly" light compared to most cars.
99.9% of the Studes on the road have approxamatly 6" to 7" wide tread on the tires.
It takes horse power to turn heavy wheels and brake rotors.
It takes gas to make that horse power to turn that heavy stuff.
It makes the shocks and springs work harder to control that new extra weight way out on the ends of the spindles.
Most don't drive their Studes much over the posted speed limit...if at all.

So...thinking about all this for a second or two.....
Why "over brake" your car?

If you are wanting gas milage, you are wanting the best E.T. slip numbers at the drag strip you can possibly get, if you want as good handling a car you can get with Stude parts....

Don't overload the car with monster rotors and calipers!

Mechanically...they just aren't needed/required to properly stop a 3300 lb. car.

Now if you are road racing or live in the mountains and love the twisty turns....go for it...but even there....be carefull to design a "system" that fits the car and what you will be doing with it.

I guess the guys that are just "showing" their cars and not really driving them, the extra weight and power will go a long way toward impressing the younger crowd.

The brakes I did using the wimpy little Avanti rotors....will lock up the 7" wide tread tires in a big hurry. Why then do I need more brake power? I've had a few sudden stops from 65 or so MPH...not a problem at all.
Of course my "reduced diameter" rotors in the back help stop the 9-3/4" wide tread tires on the back also.

By the way....none of this is in any way is bashing Tom (sbca96) for his efforts in comming up with his Mustang/Studebaker brake assembly. He's done a good job in adapting those parts.

It's just overall...mechanically...unless your Stude has 8" or 9" wide tires in front and is a road racing demon...with 3 or 4 hundred horse power...................?

Just something to ponder during lunch!

Mike

[Swifster]

quote:Originally posted by jlmccuan

Ah yes, the cool factor. I must admit, that does enter into the equation. My wheels are 17" 5 spokes, so the brake components will need to be cleaned up since they are exposed for viewing.

Mike, Jim IS looking for that WOW factor!. I've mentioned on another post that rear discs weigh more than drum brakes. Unfortunately drums don't have the visual appeal of shiney disc brakes. I'm thinking of a drag car and wouldn't think of swapping the rear drums. But for a show car with 17" wheels I might.

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Tom - Valrico, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona

[sbca96]

quote:Originally posted by jlmccuan
..... but the big Ford rotors and calipers sure look sweet. Haven't checked into the cost of the Ford calipers, but will today ... I thought Tom might chime in on this, but not so far...

I dont know how I missed this thread. I am chiming in now. Look
on www.stangsuspension.com and look at 94-04 Mustang. Those are the
ones that will fit my brackets. Thats just $180 bucks for a set of
new PBR 2 piston aluminum calipers - with pads.



Rotors :

quote:Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten
The brakes I did using the wimpy little Avanti rotors....will lock up the 7" wide tread tires in a big hurry. Why then do I need more brake power?

Just because you can lock up the brakes doesn't mean you are stopping
the car well. Manual four wheel drum brakes will lock all four wheels
just fine.[]

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires