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Upgrading to 4 Wheel Disc

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  • #31
    I really appreciate everyone's comments and suggestions. If we can work out the timing, I am inclined to go with 13" in front and 12" in the rear, using the Cobra components.

    Any suggestions concerning using the existing brake lines and coverting the type of brake fluid? Or relace all the lines while it's up on the rack?

    This is one of 3 major improvement projects slated for this summer on the Avanti, the other 2 being suspension and transmission. This is a great forum, friendly folks and tons of good info. Thanks

    Jim

    Jim
    Often in error, never in doubt
    http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

    ____1966 Avanti II RQA 0088_______________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152____________http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

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    • #32
      Hopefully, this will change my sig

      Jim

      1966 Avanti II
      Jim
      Often in error, never in doubt
      http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

      ____1966 Avanti II RQA 0088_______________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152____________http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

      Comment


      • #33
        Robert .. I was just playin!

        Jim,

        The posts I made on the rear setup, you can see what I did there, I
        had to replace the whole line to the rear, because the single hose in
        the center was worn from rubbing on something, and when I tried to
        get it loosened the whole tube spun (not the flare nut) twisting the
        tube and snapping it off. I ended up using two Mustang rear lines and
        routing new steel lines to each side. In the front I used two Mustang
        GT lines, even modifiying them to fit the Cobra calipers, since I did
        not want to relocate the factory steel ends. That seemed like it was
        necessary with the stainless steel braided lines I got with the Cobra
        calipers since they are stiff. The Mustang lines are mounted high on
        the body, and drop down - something thats not easy to do on the Stude.
        The rubber lines flex just fine, but the SST flex lines dont. I might
        get a bug to relocate the stock ends, by using a union and directing
        it to a "better" location .. but for now it works fine with rubber.

        Nice picture! What color is that? Dark cherry?

        Tom
        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

        Comment


        • #34
          Sometimes it is maroon, sometimes black, sometimes brown, sometimes kind of a purple. It kind of grows on you. Thanks for the info.

          Jim

          1966 Avanti II RQA 0088
          Jim
          Often in error, never in doubt
          http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

          ____1966 Avanti II RQA 0088_______________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152____________http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

          Comment


          • #35

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            • #36
              Because of how much material needed to be removed to be able to make
              the bracket out of a solid piece, steel would have been harder on the
              tooling and not really gained much in strength. 6061-T6 is what they
              use to build aircraft and 7075 is used in very high stress areas. If
              I went with steel, I would make the part thinner, and that would take
              away the grease trap (like the other brackets out there). Once it is
              thinner its about the same strength as my thicker 6061 part. Heat is
              not really an issue, we ran the numbers on thinner steel vs a thicker
              aluminum part and the aluminum actually distorted less. This was at
              an extreme number you would never see on a car - or something else is
              going to fail! Most of your aftermarket brackets similar to mine are
              made from 6061, not to mention its lighter, and creates its own layer
              of protection from the elements. Steel is also sketchy in which type
              you get, some of the cheaper materials out there have a lot of foreign
              material in them that can cause cracks over time. 6061 is a high end
              material that has to meet certain standards. I kicked around 7075, but
              since my bracket is pretty much a straight line shot to the caliper, I
              didnt see the merit in paying 4 to 10 times as much for material. I've
              seen a few kits that make a 3 to 4 inch "jog" to mount the caliper out
              centered on the rotor. Those make sense to use the higher strength of
              7075, or an alloy steel. I posted the FEA results in a past thread. I
              feel it past with flying colors, having the same factor 3 safety margin
              that the auto industry uses.

              Keep in mind that ALL of your aftermarket wheels are aluminum, they
              are not made from billet 6061-T6, they are surprisingly thin, being in
              the neighborhood of 3/4 inch thick in profile, AND they see enormous
              side load stresses. A caliper bracket only sees radial stress, which
              is along its widest/strongest point. Also a caliper bracket will see
              its max stress RIGHT to the point of wheel lock, and then that drops
              off after the tire contact patch lets go of the ground.

              Tom

              quote:Originally posted by Neal in NM

              I am curious as to why you decided to use aluminum for your caliper bracket. I would be very concerned about warping from the heating and cooling cycles. Did you have the aluminum stressed relieved? Are you including a dust shield on the inside?
              '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
              Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
              I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

              Comment

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