Engine: 259 Studebaker engine boring

[bob1944]

Can most engine shops bore this engine with no problem. I have a 1960 259 V-8 that need to be bored out on a stock over haul, no improvement in cam or valve train, are there any problems that happen with the boring operation? I have a relatively reliable shop in mind not sure they have done any Studebaker engines lately so I want to be sure that nothing goes south while they have my engine. Thanks I'll watch and listen.

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

I don't think a Studebaker V-8 is boring! I find them kind of exciting!

[jclary]

.... I have a relatively reliable shop in mind not sure they have done any Studebaker engines lately so I want to be sure that nothing goes south while they have my engine. Thanks I'll watch and listen.

That is one important factor. However, I would want to make certain that the technician is either old enough or has enough experience to know that Studebaker was an American company that made their own engines. It would also help to have a copy of the shop manual when you deliver the engine. Show him the section covering engine overhaul and check his attitude. If his eyes glaze over and he seems reluctant to give attention to the manual, politely gather up your stuff and leave. Better to incur some distance expenses than have a substandard job requiring a "do-over."

[StudeRich]

It should be OK to have this competent machine shop bore the engine, but get a "Studebaker wise" shop to assemble it, unless you are doing that yourself.

[52-fan]

The actual boring of the cylinders should not be a problem for a competent machinist. It's the other things unique to a Studebaker that can cause trouble if you don't follow the manual.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Just like any other engine...

Install and torque the main caps, use what ever the boring machine your shop uses, bore to within about .005" of the finished diameter (as noted by the "exact" diameter of your new pistons), then hone to the finished diameter.
It's also good to know the piston ring being used. Today, there are so many ring materials and styles used, it's a good idea that your shop knows what stones to use in his hone machine.

Not rocket science, just another block.

Mike

[Stu Duglee]

All of the above, make sure they know the uniqueness of a stude motor.

[jallen]

Find out how much of an overbore will be needed then get your new pistons and rings, the machine shop will want them if they're doing a good job.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Stu -

Uniqueness...?

What is so unique about boring a Stude engine ?
I see two things during setup and assembly...but nothing during any machining..!? Please let me know if I've missed anything.

Mike

[Skybolt]

Mike,

The only thing I can think of is that because of the strength of the block the machinist does not require the use of a torque plate.

I was talking to a friend of mine, a few months ago, that I used to work for and we were talking about the blocks. He was saying that where he has been getting the Stude blocks bored, and other machining, for the past 40 years, Repco Australia, they have never had to use a torque plate on a Studebaker block. They said it was unnecessary because they have not seen any distortion during the boring process over the years on the Stude blocks. I would only expect that one would use a plate if the block was going to be bored so far that sleeves would be used through the whole block for extreme cubic inch displacement but I'm only guessing as I have not seen any Stude engine go through that process.

Now if one was going to use a 289 engine for racing and pushing the rpm over 7000 constantly and putting thousands of dollars into the engine one might want a little extra security. A 259 would not have near the same problems.

Bottom line, it's just an engine and super strong at that, but the 259 is oh so sweet when balanced and blueprinted.

[Bob Andrews]

I'm not an engine builder, but I've had a lot of racing engines over the years of many brands, and they've always used a torque plate. Not worth taking the chance.

Regardless of intended use, I would go the extra effort to use a torque plate.

[PackardV8]

I'm not an engine builder, but I've had a lot of racing engines over the years of many brands, and they've always used a torque plate. Not worth taking the chance. Regardless of intended use, I would go the extra effort to use a torque plate

Yes, Bob is correct, IF the racing engine is a BrandX. SBCs and SBFs especially need a torque plate for honing. It's an absolute requirement for the SBC 400" with siamesed bores.

No, the Stude V8 doesn't require a torque plate when honing for the normal .030" or .060" overbore.

Maybe, it's a good idea for the .093" R3 and larger overbores. Pretty moot, however, as there are only one or two Studebaker torque plates in the known world. Jeff, AKA deepnhock, just paid shipping to and from the mid west to GA to have one for use on honing his race engine.

FWIW, BHJ, the largest company which makes deck plates, told me I have the only Packard V8 torque plate they ever made.

jack vines

[Mike Van Veghten]

I'd say bunk....

What's so strong about the Stude block ?
"Other" thAn the head fastener holes are divorced..as in (for the most part), not connected to the bore.

I watched the first two cylinders of my block get bored.. I saw nothing nor heard nothing to tell me the block is made of titanium or something...! Simillar ship size and color as the chips on the floor from the last block he'd just finished up...the reason I know it was a Chevy...I helped remove it from the boring machine bar..
Remember, I've also taken my grinder to more thAn my fair share of Stude heads...again I see nothing to tell me they are made of anything special. This is just using normal carbide burrs like I use for every other iron head I've ported. Including the Chrysler Hemi.
Matter of fact...the "sanding rolls" I use work very well in removing "Stude" iron from the heads..!

Something about torque plates....IF...they were easilly available for the Stude block...I'd have had Dennis use them during the hone operation of my block...despite the block being made of Kryptonite.

So....who's got a set of Stude torque plates they'd be willing to lend out..?

Mike

[Bob Andrews]

So....who's got a set of Stude torque plates they'd be willing to lend out..?

Mike

Phil Harris, I think.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Phil should have his torque plate back by now..
He has a deposit/invoice procedure to get it to you.
You pay freight out and back.
But check with him first.

Mike's right about the Stude block being nothing crazy special.
Just a late forties casting technologies setup.
Only thing 'different' on a Stude engine (from an SBC, for example) is wrist pin pinch bolts, crankshaft end play shims,
gear driven cam, and a separate (from the oil pump) oil pressure relief valve.

Boring the block is standard stuff. Just have your goodies (pistons) there for final boring and honing.
Jeff

I'd say bunk....
What's so strong about the Stude block ?
"Other" thAn the head fastener holes are divorced..as in (for the most part), not connected to the bore.
I watched the first two cylinders of my block get bored.. I saw nothing nor heard nothing to tell me the block is made of titanium or something...! Simillar ship size and color as the chips on the floor from the last block he'd just finished up...the reason I know it was a Chevy...I helped remove it from the boring machine bar..
Remember, I've also taken my grinder to more thAn my fair share of Stude heads...again I see nothing to tell me they are made of anything special. This is just using normal carbide burrs like I use for every other iron head I've ported. Including the Chrysler Hemi.
Matter of fact...the "sanding rolls" I use work very well in removing "Stude" iron from the heads..!

Something about torque plates....IF...they were easilly available for the Stude block...I'd have had Dennis use them during the hone operation of my block...despite the block being made of Kryptonite.

So....who's got a set of Stude torque plates they'd be willing to lend out..?

Mike