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Upper Control Arm Bumper install

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  • Frame / Springs: Upper Control Arm Bumper install

    My rubber bumpers have been missing and am trying to put new ones in.
    Can't figure out how that bumper is attached; looks like it should attach to
    the the piece (perch?) welded on the frame? but how? I found another thread on the
    subject but Im still confused. Can someone enlighten me?
    Thanks,

    Joe D.
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  • #2
    Joe,

    It snaps on/around that box piece that is welded on the frame under the upper a arm.

    I marked up your pix with a sketch.
    Attached Files

    Jeff in ND

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    • #3
      ok, now I see it; I was thinking it was designed to slide on something and then attached via that hole in the top. Thanks much Jeff.

      Joe D.

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      • #4
        You will have to unload the suspension to get those in. I learned this the hard way... I totally rebuilt my front end, and in the rush to get it all buttoned up before the city cited me, I left the bumpers out. No amount of coercion would get them in once the kingpins were in place. I decided discretion was the better part of valor and let my alignment shop put them in - they loosened the upper A-arms from the frame and slid 'em in that way

        Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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        • #5
          You can also use a piece of 5/8 all thread. Remove the shock. Use a piece of 1/4x2 flat stock 5 inches long, drill a 5/8 hole in the middle to use on the lower control arm. Install through the shock mount using a hard 5/8 flat washer and double nut the top. Install the lower plate and nut on the bottom and tighten. That will raise the upper A arm so the snubber can be installed. I use this method when rebuilding front ends. Just need the all thread long enough to unload the spring after removing upper a arm bolts. Jim

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          • #6
            I have installed them by jacking under the king pin nut with a floor jack. It should present an area big enough to fenagle it in only if your suspension is weighted with the engine in place. One side at a time. Possibly only dooable if car being equipped with OEM springs. Stiffer aftermarket springs might not cooperate. If engine is out you could somehow secure the frame to the ground and then jack under the king pin bolt. This should work no matter what type springs you have. Take the tire and wheel off and go in through there if your care is all together. I've not had to mess with the upper control arm shaft attaching nuts and bolts to install the snubber. cheers jimmijim
            Last edited by jimmijim8; 06-16-2011, 05:29 AM.
            sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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            • #7
              I was thinking it was designed to slide on something and then attached via that hole in the top
              That hole is for the earlier style bumpers. My '53 had those originally but I could not find replacements and I used the newer ones. They are smaller and the rubber is moulded onto a square steel plate that has a peg/tab sticking out the bottom. That peg goes through that hole and a clip secures it from underneath. The ones pictured are the newer style. I don't know when the switch happened. But, they fit on the earlier cars just fine since that box part was never changed.

              Jeff in ND

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              • #8
                ok thanks to you guys for your help. They went on easily, 15 minutes per side, using a screw driver to spread the bumper and force it on.
                Jeff is right - I had the later style bumpers and they are meant to spread apart exactly as he outlined in his diagram and fit onto the welded plate.
                As Jimmijim8 said, it had to be jacked up to compress the spring and allow room to fit the bumper on, made easier of course by the wheel being
                off the car. And to think I almost took my car to the shop to have it done, which would have cost $$.. You guys are great!

                Joe D.

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                • #9
                  When you have a good experience those that try to help are pleased. thanks for acknowledging folks and sharing your experience with others. It goes a long way. cheers jimmijim
                  sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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                  • #10
                    I have been able to install them from the front with all four wheels on the ground and the front wheels turned hard right or left. The only tool I use is a long screwdriver, not easy but I get them installed.

                    34 Studebaker Street Rod (completed)
                    55 Speedster (in work)
                    63 Lark R2 (completed, 63K miles)
                    64 Daytona CNV (completed, 63K miles)
                    64 Avanti R2 (completed)
                    85 Avanti(blackout trim, 10K miles)
                    89 Avanti CNV (19K miles)

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                    • #11
                      That's why we are called CASO's. We're all about saving a buck for you or us or any Stude owner. Feel free to get an opinion here before you plunk down your bucks. cheers jimmijim
                      Originally posted by valleyguy View Post
                      ok thanks to you guys for your help. They went on easily,
                      And to think I almost took my car to the shop to have it done, which would have cost $$.. You guys are great!

                      Joe D.
                      Last edited by jimmijim8; 06-17-2011, 02:58 PM.
                      sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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