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  • #31
    I didn't notice a spacer on this (the left) side. I may try to get under there tonight to try and take off the right side mount.

    Maybe the key to getting the mount's holes aligned with the tranny's holes is to bolt the mount to the crossmember first, in the center of the capsule shaped hole on the crossmember, then lower the tranny down onto it.

    The holes on both mounts (old and new) look to be pretty identical and theoretically should line up.



    1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")


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    • #32
      I found it easier to bolt the mounts to the bellhousing first, with the tranny jacked up, then lower the whole mess onto the crossmember and muscle the engine/trans around until the studs dropped into their holes. YMMV of course. (and I was working on a different model car)

      nate

      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      62 Daytona hardtop
      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

      Comment


      • #33
        I couldn't even budge the tranny with it jacked up, Nate. How difficult is it to get to the front mounts to loosen them?


        quote:Originally posted by N8N

        I found it easier to bolt the mounts to the bellhousing first, with the tranny jacked up, then lower the whole mess onto the crossmember and muscle the engine/trans around until the studs dropped into their holes. YMMV of course. (and I was working on a different model car)

        nate

        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        62 Daytona hardtop
        1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")


        Comment


        • #34
          FYI, I just checked my chassis manual and part #532427 is the spacer and it's not used on a '51 Commander.


          quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

          There's a reason that one stud's longer than the other. The left-hand mount (at least on 53 and later - I'm honestly not sure about 51 & 52 cars) have a thick spacer between the mount and the cross-member. This offsets the engine-tranny a bit for necessary clearance. Right-hand drive cars use the spacer on the other side. Anyway's, that longer stud's for the side that gets the spacer.
          Since all Studes use that same mount type (with the DG tranny), it's a one-size-fits-all situation. Even tho, as I said, I'm not sure about the 51-52 car's using the spacer. Matters not since the longer or shorter stud would work either way on a car that didn't have a spacer. BTW, did you encounter such a spacer when you took these mounts loose?[:I] It just looks like a 1/2" thick washer.
          Out of curiousity, take the one new mount and compare it's hole spacing against the old one you took out. Are they the same? Should be. And there's no difference in hole spacing - right vs. left.[^]

          Miscreant at large.

          1957 Transtar 1/2ton
          1960 Larkvertible V8
          1958 Provincial wagon
          1953 Commander coupe
          1957 President 2-dr
          1955 President State
          1951 Champion Biz cpe
          1963 Daytona project FS
          1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")


          Comment


          • #35
            The front mounts on my '55 are not difficult to get to at all, esp. from underneath. IIRC your car has a different style front mount though.

            nate

            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            62 Daytona hardtop
            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            http://members.cox.net/njnagel

            Comment


            • #36
              I can get the posts into the crossmember and one bolt into each mount. Does the mount need to be compressed or something in order to get the second bolt into its hole?



              1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")


              Comment


              • #37
                Yeah, I see that now Eman. Don't know HOW I didn't see that in the first place![xx(] Alzdumbers is settin' in I guess!

                No, they shouldn't have to be compressed.

                You know, in thinking about what you've been saying, I can visualize you getting the stud in the slotted hole (in the crossmember) and one bolt into the bellhousing. This would be because the mount wasn't in proper alignment since the tranny's jacked up. You might try running whichever bolt it is you CAN get in up until it's almost snug. Then let the tranny down so that it sits as it's supposed to on the crossmember. Then get the second bolt started (assuming that the mount squares itself when the assemblage comes back down to where it's supposed to be). Not "compressed" per se, but aligned as it should be. If you could to this - then tighten both bolts and install the nut & washers on the stud, that should have it! We hope.

                BTW, how gooey-gummy were the old mounts????[)]

                Miscreant at large.

                1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                1960 Larkvertible V8
                1958 Provincial wagon
                1953 Commander coupe
                1957 President 2-dr
                1955 President State
                1951 Champion Biz cpe
                1963 Daytona project FS
                No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                Comment


                • #38
                  Haven't gotten back under there to try again today, but here's some pictures of the old and new mounts...







                  Not sure if they were bad enough to cause my Reverse problem, but if I don't ever get the new ones in and attached, I may never know!!![}]



                  1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")


                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Eman, looking at that last photo, I took a ruler and just held it up to the holes shown (not trying to get an honest measurement - just using the marks on the ruler for reference) and it looks to me like there's enough difference between the hole placement on the new ones to cause your problem!
                    Do us a favor and measure the distance between the inside edges of the holes on the new set and the same measurement on the old set. If there's a 16th or even an 8th of an inch difference, you're NOT gonna get that second bolt started![}] You may have to elongate one of the holes to win over this problem.

                    Recalling your comment that the old and new mounts "sorta" were the same. A tiny bit of "sorta", I could look past, but it looks to me like there's more "Sorta" than the situation should tolerate here.

                    Miscreant at large.

                    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                    1960 Larkvertible V8
                    1958 Provincial wagon
                    1953 Commander coupe
                    1957 President 2-dr
                    1955 President State
                    1951 Champion Biz cpe
                    1963 Daytona project FS
                    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Yes, it's me again... Haven't measured the holes, but it sure would be nice if I could drop that crossmember! I can get to everything on the right side to loosen it, but the left side is something different. The crossmember bolts on the left frame rail with four bolts. I can get to the nuts on the two inner ones, but the two outer ones can't even be seen or reached. And they turn but definitely don't loosen since I can find/keep the nuts held in place. So another few hours under there of futile nonsense and I'm back on the computer.

                      1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")


                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Just FYI, the hole spacing (inner and outer) are the same on both sets of mounts.[xx(]

                        1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")


                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Good Lawd! The transmission mounts are finally on! What a pain in the... We found the two hard-to-find bolts so we could actually drop the crossmember a bit. And those mounts, because of their positioning and the way they were made, we had to shave off a good amount of one corner on each one. It was in the way of where the torque converter shield screws onto the housing. I'm so tired, we didn't even see if the car will now go into Reverse (not holding my breath). Y'all have a good night.



                          1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")


                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Good deal! (fingers crossed![:I])

                            Miscreant at large.

                            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                            1960 Larkvertible V8
                            1958 Provincial wagon
                            1953 Commander coupe
                            1957 President 2-dr
                            1955 President State
                            1951 Champion Biz cpe
                            1963 Daytona project FS
                            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Just wonderimg how EMAN'S Stude. is doing and if reverse is working now? ( I Hope!!! ) Champ

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                              • #45
                                Guess what?... REVERSE IS NOW WORKING!!! Hooray![]

                                I reckon those mounts did the trick. I wonder if NOS mounts would have been easier? (As in I wouldn't have had to shave off a corner of rubber or shorten the stud.)

                                BTW, thanks to EVERYONE who offered suggestions and advice on and off the forum!


                                1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")


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