Cool/Heat: Radiator replace

[Yatipope]

Continuing to attempt to get my 59 SilverHawk 259-auto in daily driver status (huge challenge) and after only a couple months of irregular attempts at making short drives, the radiator and heater core have developed leaks. My cap on the radiator is new and rated at 13#. Probably original radiator and heater core. I have not added any “stop leak” yet and probably should at least give it a try. I am more interested in driving and showing the car for fun and publicity and making a statement about Studebaker design and beauty than keeping it all original and kept hidden away in a garage or warehouse. I want a replacement radiator and heater core without busting my budget so anyone know of alternative application parts designed for other later model automobiles that will do the job? I am just hoping someone before me has done this to save me much research and time. Thanks again.

[Bills R2]

Fun & making a statement are tough when boiled over on the side of the road. Been there
Although a 259 ain't gonna make much heat, get it right the first time.
The heater core likely has a large interchange, maybe the radiator as well? With some luck, you may find good, used.
Happy hunting!

[Dwight FitzSimons]

You might check into having your original radiator repaired. If it isn't repairable, then check out the following link:

https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/2038804-radiator-interchange-jeep

[DieselJim]

We are using radiator for a Jeep with a Chevy engine. They were around $150. Drill 4 new mounting holes and bolt it in. 3 Row Radiator For 1972-1986 Jeep CJ,CJ5,CJ7 Chevy Small Block SBC Swap V8 AT/MT | eBay

[DieselJim]

I think the cap should be 7 pounds.

[enjenjo]

The 13 lb cap is likely the reason for all the leaks

[bensherb]

I put a Jeep CJ with small block Chevy radiator in my '62 several (8?) years ago. It was a 3 row core. Well, the ambient temp here runs darn close if not over 100F for months, and my engine ran about 15-30 degrees higher than I'd like (205-235 depending on conditions). I just changed it to a 4 row core version, hopfully it will cool it a bit more. The 3 row radiator is still around $130 on ebay; The 4 row is about $160. You can get more expensive ones too. Pay attention to the inlet and outlet sizes. The stock Stude radiator is 1 1/2" inlet (top drivers side) and 1 3/4" outlet (bottom passenger side). The Jeep radiator comes two ways, both 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" and 1 1/2" x 1 3/4".

[Crider]

I put a jeep Cj in my 57 as well. Had to make some minor mods to the fan shroud around the upper hose but it cools great

[Jeffry Cassel]

Pressure caps increase the boiling point by a few degrees. The greater the pressure the higher the boiling point. An old trick is to leave the cap loose ( but if it isn't running hot, this isn't really going to relieve pressure.) My mechanic (now lamentably retired) recommended Silver Seal. It seems to work. If you have multiple leaks, re-coring is the only solution. The metal is simply too corroded to ever reliably hold water.If you go that route get a 3 core core - it will aid cooling greatly. I've used the Jeep-sbc Al radiator and it works fine.

[Yatipope]

So thankful for y’all to point me towards that Jeep/GM small block radiator. I was about to jump on a mid 90’s Dodge Dakota version. It has similar size and capacity but not 3-row. This one y’all suggested will be much better. Just not gonna spend nearly $1,000 for an all original. Would rather utilize that money on further drivability upgrades. Appreciate this site very much!!

[JoeHall]

Fun & making a statement are tough when boiled over on the side of the road. Been there
Although a 259 ain't gonna make much heat, get it right the first time.
The heater core likely has a large interchange, maybe the radiator as well? With some luck, you may find good, used.
Happy hunting!

What are some of the Hawk heater cores that interchange, brand X make, model and year please. I have gone down that rabbit hole, and never found a direct bolt in, not even close.

[Yatipope]

Yeah Joe I don’t think there is a direct bolt-in. Otherwise it would have been discovered and likely advertised here at SDC. I am in FL and just bypassed mine. Might consider an alternative location and application to adapt.

[bensherb]

For a heater you could just remove the large, arced cover in the floor above the bell housing. You'd be surprised how much heat comes up through that hole! Maybe add a hinge and cam latch to that cover to turn the heat off??