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  • Ignition: Commander Ignition

    I am having trouble with the ignition switch on my 64 Commander V8 project. It's been sitting for many years. A buddy was able to get the starter to engage with a remote starter switch. But the new ignition switch isn't working. It's from a trusted Studebaker vendor. I assume it's a wiring issue. I did not remove the wires from the previous ignition, but they are labeled. With everything hooked up, holding the ignition switch in my hand, rotating the key to start the car does nothing. I used a circuit tester to confirm the ring terminal on the BAT connection has power. What else can I test? Is my home-made Microsoft Paint diagram correct? Is the "pink" wire typically ran to the same ring terminal as the yellow-black wire? There is another wire with its own ring terminal that is labeled as ACC. I don't have any experience with wiring or ignition switches. Thanks for any help you can provide.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    The Voltage regulator "trigger" wire on the Ign. Terminal is Black with a Yellow Trace (stripe).

    The wire or wires on Accessories should power up the Wipers, Heater, Radio, Turn Signals and others but may all be connected to that trunk wire.

    Make sure that the Main Power feed wire on the "Batt" Terminal of the Ign. Sw. is connected to the Ammeter to power up the Ign. Switch.

    Here is your complete wiring Diagram courtesy of: https://studebakerparts.com



    OR click on the full color version PDF File for '63 & '64 6 and V8 Challenger, Commander etc.


    Last edited by StudeRich; 11-04-2025, 11:01 PM.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

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    • #3
      Looks like you have it wired right. The pink wire is a resistor wire and goes direct to the (+) terminal of the coil. The striped one goes to the "IGN" post on the voltage regulator. The car seems to be an automatic, since I don't see a clutch pedal. Could be your neutral safety switch is broken, or misadjusted. Tha's it on the steering column in the third picture,right near the brake pedal. It also operates the reverse lamps. Those switches have a little plastic stud that pokes into a slot on the column tube, to be acted upon by a cam on the shifter tube. Those plastic studs can break off. Two screws hold the switch to the column, not too hard to remove it. Try turning the key to the start position, and with a foot on the brake, cycle the shift lever through its travels several times. If the switch is intact, but out of adjustment, you might hear the engine crank at some point. If it does not crank at all, I would suggest you remove it, and see if the stud is broken off.
      Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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      • #4
        gordr You nailed it. I put the transmission into park, and that solved my problem! The 259 idled for the first time in many, many years. The license plate tags are from 1986!

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