Cool/Heat: GT Hawk Heat Entering Passenger Cabin

[tsgarth]

I'm a new owner of a 62 GT Hawk with very little tech and mechanical knowledge. A great deal of heat enters the passenger cabin once the engine warm to a normal operating temperature. It mainly comes from under the dash (my legs get really hot and so do any passengers). I gather this is characteristic of Avantis, but not GT Hawks? The hood lacks the standard insulating padding (removed during a repaint some years ago, I assume)--will replacing it reduce the problem? Do I need to have someone look for gaps and bad seals in cowl/firewall and floor? Could it be as simple as a flaw in the heater? Is insulation padding for the cowl a good idea--or will padding the hood and cowl increase the running temperature under the hood? (The engine also can run a bit hot after it has been up to speed awhile, around 190-200--though I gather this tolerable for the 289 V8.) Even though I live in the desert, I have no interest in adding A/C, especially since I figure it would increase the engine temperature. (I don't drive the car when the temperature outside is much over 90.) Will padding also reduce noise, which is pretty loud? Obviously, I'm really groping here. Any advice for a car repair dummy is most welcome.

[Topper2011]

Make sure you're underneath heater is off if equipped.

[JoeHall]

I see you are in Palm Springs, and October average daily high is 91F, so yea, you'll wanna reduce as much heat coming into the cabin as possible. Also, 190-200 degree engine temp, at 90 degrees ambient, is not unusual there. I spent 6 years in 29Palms, 50 miles up the road, and drove only Studes while there, so pretty familiar with your situation. I also went to Palm Springs frequently in Studes, all of them had AC, and no heat related problems, AS LONG AS I did and did not do certain things. For example, when I'd come up Morongo Grade, I'd shut the AC off and slow to 55-60 till I got near Yucca Valley.

As for the engine heat getting into your cabin, in darkness, place a "trouble light" on the floorboard, up under the dash, then open the hood and look for light leaking through the firewall. Maybe take a few pics. Then go to work sealing the leaks, usually just about every hole in the firewall where wires and other stuff pass through, as designed. When new, rubber grommets sealed the holes pretty well, but you will probably find lotsa leaks now. Also, the rubber boot around the steering column where it passes through the firewall, and the rubber accordion shaped seal beneath the gas pedal, are major leak spots.

To seal the leaks, use creativity, and "dum-dum" (Studebaker's term back in the day, a.k.a. "monkey shat" by Marines) works well for most leaks. For the steering boot, you can use a rubber plumber's boot, trimmed and slit, held in place with hose clamps, and filed with spray foam. As I said, use creativity, at least that's what I did while living in 29P. LOL

Also, if you have a 2-row radiator, go to the nearest radiator shop and have it converted to a "Desert Cooler" which equates to a 4-row radiator. Even an OEM Stude 3-row is marginal in the desert. Also, put a 16" electric fan in front of the radiator, with manual on/off switch inside the cabin. Also, a HD motor fan is a good idea. This is probably more than you asked but, just depends on how far you wanna go in driving and enjoying your GT in the desert. Another tip, if ever caught in a situation where your temp needle goes past the 225 mark (it pegs at 240), open the windows and turn the heater on HI.

[Bud]

Topper2011 is correct about the heater as that will heat up the interior on a warm day. Also check the seal around the steering column at the firewall, the bellows on the gas pedal and the grommet surrounding the wire harness where it goes through the fire wall. All of those seals have been failing as they are now over 60 years old. There should be an insulating pad already on the firewall under the instrument panel, but even those are failing. I own a 62 GT and have had issues with some of those parts and a friend also owns a 62 GT that I've been working on that has the same issues as yours. Tim's Hawk not only had the seal around the steering damaged due to rodents, but the bellows around the gas pedal linkage was missing and the cover for the master cylinder was also missing making the car extremely hot to drive during an Arizona summer.

[StudeRich]

Welcome Todd to the SDC and to the SDC Forum !
From the Main/Home Page you can find info about joining SDC and receiving the amazing "Turning Wheels" Monthly full color Publication that will help you enjoy your Studebaker more and also connect to Local Chapter Members.

OR:
It is very possible that when you slide the "Heat" lever to off, that the Coolant Control Valve in line with the heater hoses is not stopping the hot coolant flow.
1. When connected properly, the Upper hose on the engine goes to the Heater Valve, Not to the Heater Core.
2. The Valve may not be closing ALL the way, the cable may need adjustment or the valve leaks internally.

There is also a small possibility that you have hot engine heat leaks into the Air Duct Hose in the Right Front Fender going to the under seat heater core. A good look in the fender and under the car will identify any torn or loose hose or other problems there.

[boatnuttom]

I have removed the flexible inner fender material under the hood ( splash shields I think ) as I don’t drive in bad weather.this allows more hot air to exit the engine compartment.my heater control valve was stuck ..i lubed the cable and valve these things helped a great deal

[StudeRich]

SO, the Heater Control Valve WAS stuck open, good you found that.