Engine: V8 oil pump ?'s

[M-Webb]

Getting ready to re-install the oil pump on my 289. Looks like the mounting studs are a bit on the short side, think I should replace them with some that are a little bit longer. What is the best way to get them out without turning into a disaster and having to deal with drilling them out and protecting the motor from flying metal bits bits, etc. I think I might have one good shot at it with probably tearing up the threads and having to replace it regardless. Thinking an extra hard grip with some visegrips and hope they back out easy enough. Or should I put some penetrate and heat on them to help encourage them out easier to be sure? Double nut them hard and see if they can come out that way? Definitely want to avoid having to drill these out at some point. Anybody with some handy tips on this?

Also, once done with that, what is the best way to prep the oil pump to prime it? I think the previous shop put some red assembly lube in it, but not sure how full it is. Seems like a reasonable approach, but not sure if that is the best idea, maybe end up with too much assembly lube in the oil at start up, if that is potentially a problem or not, potentially clogging up any small oiling holes, etc. I saw somewhere to pack it with use petroleum jelly, but that also does not seem like a great idea. I'm planning to prime the whole motor with a drill right before running it for the first time if that matters any.

[Dean McHenry]

I have slept since I last had one of these apart but as I recall the lock washer should be a star lock tooth type and would be a good deal thinner than what appears to be a regular split lock washer. A little dab of red loctite wouldn't hut a thing either. I think I would try this rather than taking a chance on bodging up removing the present studs. DMc

[StudeRich]

Did you remember the 527224 Gasket ? Many people familiar with "Other Makes" are not used to Oil Pumps having one.
Yes, thinner Nuts and Star Lock washers will solve your "issue".

[M-Webb]

Thanks guys. Good suggestion on the star lock washer, will change that. Those split ring lock washers came on it when I started working on redoing it to check and fix things. So wasn't thinking that, but it makes sense. Was planning a little red loctite too, so will also do that. Obviously I don't want the pump coming loose, sucking air and nuts falling off, etc.

Yes, I did have a gasket in there, or what was left of it anyway. A bit torn up and will need to be replaced. I don't have a spare unfortunately, but this is at least good enough for me to trace and cut a new one. Just need to go get some thin gasket material to do it. Not sure why the previous shop though this would be OK the way it is. Never mind, I do, 1/2-ass level of work is the answer.

I've been warned about being careful torquing these down so as not to crack the pump casting. Obviously the ends missing off the gasket adds a bit more risk of doing that. So I'll replace it.

[M-Webb]

Here is Jim Maxey and Fred Fritz's video on installing the oil pump. It mentions not torquing it unevenly, so that is probably where I got that info from watching it previously. Thanks Jim! I also see he uses a split washer, not a star washer. Maybe it is another thin one like on the cam retainer plate. It looks like the stud sticks up past the nut a bit when installed, so maybe a thin nut as well. Gasket looks a little different than mine as well, maybe I'll try to match that more.

https://www.facebook.com/SDCMichianaChapter/videos/1077881752662401

[gordr]

The time-honored way to remove studs without damage is to lock two nuts together on the stud, and then back it out by wrenching on the underneath nut. Very unlikely for those two studs to be rusted into the bearing cap, so the odds favor a successful removal. But a thinner nut, star washer, and Loctite are the answer here.

[jackb]

Replace back to original nuts and lockers......

[Jeffry Cassel]

Yup! Try really hard to talk yourself out of it!

[M-Webb]

I'll get some thinner washers and nuts and see how it looks, hopefully will fix it. If not, I'll see if I can coax the studs out with a couple locked nuts and see how that goes. Seems like these studs could have been a just little longer without hurting much of anything. I noticed the studs on my old 259 motor are mismatched, 1 is longer than the other for some reason. I guess the longer one is a replacement at some point.

[M-Webb]

Went to get a couple thinner star washers and nuts but decided to do it correctly and ended up with a couple new studs instead since they had those as well. Double nutted the old studs extra hard and was able to back them out and get the new ones in, cut down to a good size. Cut a new gasket. Disassembled the pump, checked the clearances, cleaned and re-lubed it with assembly lube, put it back together and put it on. Done.






.

[StudeRich]

Beautiful work, as it "Should" be !
I like your custom Gasket, it is exactly like the original ones, these Repro ones with a larger square hole like in Post # 4 are for a Cadillac.

[JoeHall]

Beautiful work, as it "Should" be !
I like your custom Gasket, it is exactly like the original ones, these Repro ones with a larger square hole like in Post # 4 are for a Cadillac.

I don't like the ones that come in gasket kits either, and modify the one in the kit or just make a new one that aligns correctly with the hole. I also put an onion skin coat of Permatex no. 2 on the gasket, and use my fingers to work it into the paper. Probably overkill, but that's OK.

[M-Webb]

I did the same thing Joe, put a super thin layer of some of the Right Stuff on it and rubbed it in with my fingers. Didn't want it to be oozing any, just enough to be sure to help seal it so less relying on torquing the nuts down any harder than needed. To be honest, the bottom of the oil pump mounting surface on mine was not that great looking. I cleaned it up and flattened it out as best I could, but I thought a little layer of sealant on both sides of the gasket wouldn't hurt anything, might help.

I was tempted to put another super thin layer on the pump gear plate. But I held off on that, just made sure both surfaces were as clean and flat as possible, cleaned the blots and holes really well and torqued down the nuts per spec.