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What engine will fit 1950 Studebaker Champion?

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  • Engine: What engine will fit 1950 Studebaker Champion?

    Hi: I am new to this forum. I have build many Hot Rods and classic cars in my past 60 years. I know there are many smart people on this forum !!
    I have a 1950 Studebaker Champion Business Coupe with the stock 6 cylinder engine (see photos). I am having trouble climbing hills with the 85 hp engine and would like to replace with new engine and transmission. I do not care what engine or manufacturer .....I need most horsepower!
    I hope not to hurt anyone feelings of not wanting a Studebaker engine (if one fits that is ok too) !!
    I want to make sure that engine fits without cutting up frame, firewall or tunnel inside car(minor modifications OK). It can be a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine. I am presently looking at the Ford 2.3L Ecoboost now. Worried about oil pan clearance on cross member?
    I retired from Ford awhile ago and like to put a American engine if possible (by name only knowing everything seems to be build in another country anyways).
    Has anyone had any luck installing another motor with out cutting up frame, firewall or tunnel in the 1950 Studebaker Champion?
    Thank you very much for any possible information. Jim Simonson

  • #2
    Originally posted by jimscar View Post
    Hi: I am new to this forum. I have build many Hot Rods and classic cars in my past 60 years. I know there are many smart people on this forum !!
    I have a 1950 Studebaker Champion Business Coupe with the stock 6 cylinder engine (see photos). I am having trouble climbing hills with the 85 hp engine and would like to replace with new engine and transmission. I do not care what engine or manufacturer .....I need most horsepower!
    I hope not to hurt anyone feelings of not wanting a Studebaker engine (if one fits that is ok too) !!
    I want to make sure that engine fits without cutting up frame, firewall or tunnel inside car(minor modifications OK). It can be a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine. I am presently looking at the Ford 2.3L Ecoboost now. Worried about oil pan clearance on cross member?
    I retired from Ford awhile ago and like to put a American engine if possible (by name only knowing everything seems to be build in another country anyways).
    Has anyone had any luck installing another motor with out cutting up frame, firewall or tunnel in the 1950 Studebaker Champion?
    Thank you very much for any possible information. Jim Simonson
    Hi Jim, welcome to the SDC Forum! Looks like a nice '50 that you have.

    Look up in the upper right hand corner of this page, and you will see a search bar. Enter "1950 champion engine swap" (without the quotes) and click on the magnifying glass button, and you will get several threads that you can read while you are waiting for more knowledgeable folks to offer engine swap ideas/opinions.
    Paul
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
    Check out my YouTube channel here: www.youtube.com/@r1lark
    Check out my NOS Studebaker parts For Sale here: http://partsforsale.studebakerskytop.com

    Comment


    • jimscar
      jimscar commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Paul for your message, I am going to look up now ! Jim

  • #3
    Given the quite considerable Interior Modifications already none, I don't think a engine swap will lower it's desirability or value any.
    The front springs, suspension and brakes will need some upgrades though.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

    Comment


    • jimscar
      jimscar commented
      Editing a comment
      Hi Stude Rich: Thanks for helping out on this. I heard the 1950 Studebaker Champion is 3 inches longer in front for the new v8 Studebaker engine for that year ?

  • #4
    To expound on Rich's post, you had better upgrade the radiator, brakes, springs, shocks, front and rear, and the rear axle, complete. That stock rear end won't stand up to much more power than you have. There's a lot of room in the engine bay, but rear sump oil pan is the easiest. You could get mounts from a Commander and bolt in a Studebaker motor. Having said all that, My first Studebaker was a '51 Champion, 170ci, 3 on the tree, no overdrive. I lived in San Diego and used to drive it over the mountains in Arizona, back and forth to Washington state, numerus times. I got great gas millage, hauled camping gear, several people, and it cruised up the hills just fine. I fount a blown up hot rodded 170 motor in a junk yard, and bought the aluminum high compression head, dual carb manifold, dual point distributor and put that stuff on. That stuff is still around. So, you have many choices. Keep us informed!

    Comment


    • jimscar
      jimscar commented
      Editing a comment
      Hi Yeroldad: In doing my homework so far, the 1951 Studebaker Champion is 3 inches longer in front? My car is 1950. I do not know how hard it would be to find a V8 Studebaker motor if it would fit in a 1950? I was thinking a Ford 9" rear end, larger radiator, front springs if going with more horsepower engine. I wanted to use my OD Borg Warner Transmission if possible being I rebuilt it last year and it works good. I really would like 20 more horsepower to climb hills. I have options on a small supercharger or turbo but I think the motor could not handle that, I am not trying to build a "Hot Rod" Studebaker. I just need a little more power. I have seen 4 cylinder motors with plenty of horsepower thinking there woild be room in engine bay for that? Jim

  • #5
    Hi Jim,
    Over the years I have successfully installed many big block Oldsmobile 455 CID W30 as it is hard to beat 500 lbs feet of torque to motivate any ride. I use the turbo 400 as it handles all the torque the engine produces and it will put a big smile on your face. Size wise it is close to the much smaller displacement Studebaker V8 and they are relatively fuel efficient for their size.
    Keep us posted (with pics) of your progress.
    Cheers,
    Bill

    Comment


    • StudeRich
      StudeRich commented
      Editing a comment
      That is all good info Bill, BUT I am pretty sure most were in 1951 and later Studes. built for a V8.

  • #6
    Hi Jim,
    Over the years I have successfully installed many big block Oldsmobile 455 CID W30 as it is hard to beat 500 lbs feet of torque to motivate any ride. I use the turbo 400 as it handles all the torque the engine produces and it will put a big smile on your face. Size wise it is close to the much smaller displacement Studebaker V8 and they are relatively fuel efficient for their size.
    Keep us posted (with pics) of your progress.
    Cheers,
    Bill
    Sorry for the duplication.

    Comment


    • jimscar
      jimscar commented
      Editing a comment
      Hi Buzzard: Per Stude Rich comments my car is 1950. Everything I read the 1951 Studebaker was 3 inches longer (for V8 engine) in front which makes it hard for me to install a larger motor in my 1950 without modifications to firewall, tunnel, front radiator, etc. I do not want to do major modifications to car now after interior is finished. Again I was hoping for maybe a 4 cylinder engine with 200 horsepower and maybe a transmission that will fit without modifications to tunnel. I am still hoping to find someone on the Forum that has done this to a 1950! I will keep everyone informed on this project! Jim

    • yeroldad
      yeroldad commented
      Editing a comment
      Jim, got a measuring tape? Even with 3 inches less room, I'm betting there's still plenty of room for most any common engine. Considering the Studebaker OD trans is bigger than most transmissions today, there shouldn't be a space problem with the tunnel. Now, shifting the modern trans is the tricky part. Column shift? Floor shift? I like your idea of using a turbo or blower. You could set the boost low enough to not worry about hurting the motor. Con rods are the weak link, but they could be shot peened to give them more strength. Jack Vines would be one to help you to get the flat 6cyl enough power to get you up those hills. With the work and parts I used on my '51, it had about 50K miles on it when a EX friend totaled the car. Almost killed him also. He moved across country to get away from my anger. Anyway, it ran great with the mods I did.

  • #7
    OK....................It is 29" from firewall to back side of radiator. I found today that my vacuum advance diaphragm is no good. Maybe that will give me a little more power?? Where is a good place to buy one, I am afraid to buy on Ebay that a OEM unit could be 75 years old (dried up seal)? My distributor is # Presolite IAT-4403-B (suppose to be same as Autolite IAT-4001). Also, I would go with a Automatic Transmission that would be fine(do not have to worry about shifting rods). I looked in my 1950 Studebaker manual and looks like cross member is far enough forward for oil pan clearance, just tie rod going across could be a problem? I am going on 79 years old and want to make this a doable job. I am going to try to call supercharger, turbo, and nitous oxide shops today if I have time on that idea. I think rods and engine will hold up due to the fact I am not going to race or beat up motor...only for the HILLS ! Famous last words !!!! LOL
    Thank you yeroldad for helping me !!!

    Comment


    • #8
      That vac advance is pretty important, make the motor low on power and get hot if it ain't working. Start with fixing that. Most any of the Studebaker vendors will have one. Maybe save yourself a lot of work!

      Comment


      • jimscar
        jimscar commented
        Editing a comment
        I am ordering right now. Jim

    • #9
      Jim, here is a "thinking outside the Box" for you:

      You never talked about the Transmission, most of these '50's did have an Overdrive Transmission, and usually a Hill Holder .

      If neither of these are understood, working right and Used properly, you WILL experience poor performance especially with a 85 HP Engine, but it may Not be it's fault, they worked great in the Day, when driven in the proper Gear !

      If you have the O.D. Handle pushed in (IN O.D.), do you know how to go to direct drive and take it out on hills?
      Also, an improperly adjusted or working Hill Holder can apply and drag the Brakes !

      Your plans are very aggressive for this particular Car. I worry that your "Dreams" may exceed your age, capabilities and wallet, of course only YOU know how these are doing, certainly NOT Me.

      I guess this is my "fix what you got Plan" !
      Last edited by StudeRich; 08-12-2025, 02:03 PM.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
      SDC Member Since 1967

      Comment


      • jimscar
        jimscar commented
        Editing a comment
        Hi Stude Rich: I rebuilt the OD transmission it is a R-10 Borg-Warner. My car does not have the Hill Holder. I do take OD out when going up hill (goes into 3rd gear) still needs a little more power. Always take OD out when car is not moving. I showed a few pictures of the OD rebulding for you.
        Jim

      • StudeRich
        StudeRich commented
        Editing a comment
        You do not need to pull the handle out when parked, just ALWAYS park it in Reverse, no freewheeling.

    • #10

      Comment


      • jimscar
        jimscar commented
        Editing a comment
        Having hard time installing phots on this site !

    • #11
      A 4.0 Ranger V6 and AOD transmission would fit easily. And you could keep the stock rear end if you wanted to.

      Comment


      • jimscar
        jimscar commented
        Editing a comment
        I like the idea of the 4.0 Ranger V6 and AOD Transmission, Will the Transmission fit in tunnel with no modifications? Do you know anyone who make this swap to there 1950 Studebaker Champion? I will not be beating on car so rear end could hold up under normal operations. I drag raced cars in my life. (See photos)
        Thanks, Jim

      • jimscar
        jimscar commented
        Editing a comment
        I am having a hard time putting photos on this site, can anyone help me to install photos? Thanks, Jim

    • #12
      I see that the 4.0 V6 Ranger Engine has 160 HP OHV and 207 HP SOHC, that is a bit much for a Dana 23 Tapered Axle.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
      SDC Member Since 1967

      Comment


      • #13

        Comment


        • jimscar
          jimscar commented
          Editing a comment
          OD Transmission apart and cleaned.

      • #14

        Comment


        • jimscar
          jimscar commented
          Editing a comment
          OD Transmission complete read to go !

      • #15
        I am starting to understand hard to post photos. Jim

        Comment


        • altair
          altair commented
          Editing a comment
          You have to set your camera at low resolution, I don't use a phone just a camera and set at low resolution
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