Clutch / Torque Converter: Need advice on pressure plate for R3-T10 4-spd

[Dwight FitzSimons]

My R3 (B69) short block is currently at a highly respected engine builder's shop to be gone through after a long sleep. The first issue is what pressure plate to use when reinstalling the engine. The trans is a T-10 and the current pressure plate is a B&B. From what I read I am favoring a diaphragm pressure plate, mainly for the lighter pedal pressure required. Even here in the boonies we often have heavy traffic and I'm just tired of a heavy clutch. (I would go with a TH200-4R except for the cost.) Also, with a diaphragm, I'll never be stuck with a litter of little springs.

So, what brand & type of diaphragm press. plate should I buy? And where? I will be happy to help support our Stude vendors by buying from one of them.

Also, will there be any clutch linkage or release (throw-out) bearing issues?

Thanks in advance for any and all guidance.

--Dwight

[JoeHall]

In 2012, about 65,000 miles ago, I installed a 10.5" diaphragm PP in the 62GT: Autozone part number NU-1853-1, for 1975-81 Monte Carlo with 307 - 350 engine. I used T/O bearing number SKF N0185, and cut the OEM bearing carrier sleeve to .375" and reduced its OD from .750" to .692". For clearance, I also had to grind away more of the inside of the bell housing than anticipated, but no problems so far. If doing it again, I probably would NOT. Instead, I'd install a B&B with specs for a standard 289, or maybe even 259. As for pedal feel, yes the diaphragm is definitely lighter than a HD Borg & Beck; it's about same as a standard 289 PP, and gets even lighter the last 1" or so of travel to the floor. IMHO, the juice ain't worth the squeeze, and I don't like to "ride the T/O bearing" anyway, in stop and go traffic.

As for your current HD clutch, I agree about the excess pedal pressure. In the early 1990s I installed a HD in the same 62GT and pedal pressure was ridiculous, and all too often I had to replace something in the clutch linkage, usually the coupler, that has 2 pins in it, would crack, causing loss of sufficient pedal travel to release the clutch. It happened so often, I carried a spare coupler in the console, and could swap it in only a few minutes, roadside. I also once cracked the shaft itself, that the coupler connects to. After about 40,000 miles I became so disgusted, I swapped the HD out for standard 289 version, which was more than up to the chore for anything I needed, including towing. You could not pay me to install another HD in a Studebaker, and probably not a diaphragm either. Your car - your choice. JMHO

[bezhawk]

I use a Centerforce diaphragm type it has a regular facing on one side, and bronze facing on the other side on the actual clutch facing. The pressure plate has centrifugal weights that help clamping at higher RPMs. You do have to grind a lot on the inside of the bell housing for clearance. I have also used Ram (brand) diaphragm clutches. Both work well, and much less pedal pressure than the HD B&B.

[Hawklover]

My R3 (B69) short block is currently at a highly respected engine builder's shop to be gone through after a long sleep. The first issue is what pressure plate to use when reinstalling the engine. The trans is a T-10 and the current pressure plate is a B&B. From what I read I am favoring a diaphragm pressure plate, mainly for the lighter pedal pressure required. Even here in the boonies we often have heavy traffic and I'm just tired of a heavy clutch. (I would go with a TH200-4R except for the cost.) Also, with a diaphragm, I'll never be stuck with a litter of little springs.

So, what brand & type of diaphragm press. plate should I buy? And where? I will be happy to help support our Stude vendors by buying from one of them.

Also, will there be any clutch linkage or release (throw-out) bearing issues?

Thanks in advance for any and all guidance.

--Dwight

Dwight why not consult with Munter at WCD????????? as I remember you did a considerable amount of rebuilding business with him in the past??

[Dwight FitzSimons]

I did consult with Dave Thibeault.

[StudeRich]

(I would go with a TH200-4R except for the cost.) Also, with a diaphragm, I'll never be stuck with a litter of little springs.

I don't thin so Dwight ! These are Turbo Hydramatic (THM) AUTOMATIC Transmissions, No clutch.

[Dwight FitzSimons]

I know, but I've become shiftless in my old age.

[JoeHall]

IMHO, with a diaphragm clutch, in the OP's high performance car, the weakest link would be the structurally compromised bell housing. With a normally driven 259/289 Stude I don't see an issue, but with something that's likely to be occasionally called upon for "burnouts" and "see what she'll do" tasks, I'd be most concerned about the bell housing.

[Dwight FitzSimons]

Hmmm, interesting thought.

[Dwight FitzSimons]

I would add that I'll never try to "see what she'll do," let alone do a burnout. The most I'll do is get 'er hooked up and open 'er up to about 50 or so, then foot off the throttle. Then usually hit the brakes. I just like to feel the power, not endanger anyone.

[Dwight FitzSimons]

Yet another comment: AFAIK it's not speed that hurts machinery, or even acceleration. It's jerks (changes in acceleration) that hurt machinery. I try to drive smoothly and not be a jerk. --Dwight

[JoeHall]

Wonder if there's a 10.25" clutch assembly, including diaphragm PP, that can be fitted to Studebaker? Probably would still need to grind the inside of the bell housing, but the reduced .125" OD would help a lot. It would likely require drilling new holes in the flywheel to mount the PP, but would be worth looking into, especially if available OTC at FLAPS at reasonable price.