Body / Glass: Drip rail question

[Slick111]

What has been done as this part is spot welded sandwiched between the roof panel and the main body shell my car looks as if the join seam was sealed at one time or just paint not sure nothing remains the car was blasted and primed when I got it.

[yeroldad]

The surface where the spot welds are is covered with seam sealer. You can buy it at most any auto parts store. Just brush it on. I use a acid brush.

[medium_jon]

Thanks for confirming the process yeroldad, I need to do that on my truck.

[bensherb]

There is a 3M product called "Drip Check" which is a specifically made sealer to fill the bottom of drip rails.

[Jeffry Cassel]

I've used POR15 and POR Patch after a good wire brushing. Mask well.

[tsenecal]

I used the 3-M product in a caulking tube. Worked well and still looks good under the paint.

[wdills]

Be cautious of 1 part seam sealers in this area. They never fully cure and will off-gas under your paint when the sun hits it. I had to repaint the top of my car due to this. After about 2 years I started developing large blisters under my paint that started in the bottom of the drip rail and spread up onto the roof. I stripped that original sealer out and replaced it with a 2 part seam sealer and repainted the top. It has been fine for the last 5 years. Single part seam sealers are fine for floor and shaded hidden areas but in the drip rail with the sun baking on it invites trouble a little ways down the road.

[Slick111]

Be cautious of 1 part seam sealers in this area. They never fully cure and will off-gas under your paint when the sun hits it. I had to repaint the top of my car due to this. After about 2 years I started developing large blisters under my paint that started in the bottom of the drip rail and spread up onto the roof. I stripped that original sealer out and replaced it with a 2 part seam sealer and repainted the top. It has been fine for the last 5 years. Single part seam sealers are fine for floor and shaded hidden areas but in the drip rail with the sun baking on it invites trouble a little ways down the road.

You are correct my old time body man said use 2 part epoxy thinned and brush it on let it flow out slow cure 24 -48 hours

[JLB]

On the advice of a 3M Sales Rep, I used 3M Panel Bond ( Part # 08115) in the drip rail. It contains some anti corrosion elements and has an approximate working time of 90 minutes. I masked the roof as well as the drip rail, applied the panel bond, smoothed it and pulled the tape. Looks great, and can be sanded, if needed.

[IndStudenut]

You are correct my old time body man said use 2 part epoxy thinned and brush it on let it flow out slow cure 24 -48 hours

(Slick111)

I stripped that original sealer out and replaced it with a 2 part seam sealer (Wdills)


Wdills, Slick111 - Can you provide the names of the products that you have used and had success with. Getting ready to do some serious work on my C Cab truck starting this fall and really would prefer to use the best products.

Also somewhat related.... The C Cab has a body seem that runs across the roof panel. mine is deterated a lot so hard to tell what the original looked like. It almost looks like it had a piece of material that looks like it was sandwiched between it with sharp edges (if that makes sense) rather than having a seem sealer that is cratered between the 2 panels. Trying to make it look as original as possible..... Anyone have a pic or know what the original really looked like?

[wdills]

It has been a few years, but I am fairly sure this is what I used. I know it was 3M and came in a dual cartridge pack like this. And I am pretty sure it was self leveling.

3M Self-Leveling Seam Sealer, 08307, Two-Part, Quick-Curing Epoxy, 200 mL/6.75 fl oz Cartridge

[IndStudenut]

Thanks Wdills

[Slick111]

Yes the 3M scotch weld product or the 08307 is what I was told to use

[Jeffry Cassel]

My son says not to use silicone sealants; Liquid Nails is better. Never tried on drip rails it but it does really stick everywhere else.